Free Range

to re state what calebz said: 70 psi is before the FPR, 35 after, I'm running ~50psi (probably too rich) in my aftermarket RRFPR, I had simmilar issues as those you reported in an earlier thread, so I swapped my fuel filter, and ran lucas injector cleaner recently, when I drain my tank a couple more times I'll throw on another filter, I definitly had some rust issues, the car sat since 1998, but the problem didn't present itself until after rally-xing, weeling and running out of gas in the same day, 3 months after building the car... I might pull the fuel line going into the fuel filter(or earlier), hotwire the pump and totally drain the tank a couple of time just to see what kind of chunks fly out, just be sure not to run the pump too dry. this is what I'm thinking... Oh yeah mudrat should have an extra used turbo fuel pump and FPR or two... -Nels

good directions are on the oregon rally group website, new as of today, 11/18, I'll try to attend with mudrat (I also just posted in the rules thread) -Nels

Anybody besides edrach going to get to the rules meeting? (deduced from another thread) I'm trying to get John(Mudrat) to go up with me from Eugene, if I go there will be ~two extra seats in my wagon, we will be returning to Eugene wends(tomorrow night) probably 10 or 11ish decent directions are on the oregon rally group website, the location is new as of today, 11/18 just post again, or email me, -Nels

I'll be in the area around 12/13 and again around 1/3, making the big ol' commute for winter break... just need a date/location, peace:D

As far as I know, all turbo's are 3.70, manual or autospastic, n/a manual's are 3.90, and most likely so are the auto's

I like the old school style rear dust deflectors, but I'm thinkin' maybe get another one and mount both of them vertically on opposite sides of the back side windows, or maybe three, one in the stock place and the other two vertical, kinda surrounding the back hatch

Shout out to all y'all with lifted rides, :wave: How stable are your cars with 27-28" MT's on 14" pug's when compared with 28-29" MT's on Chevy six lug's? I'm going up 3" in my turbowagon, and I'd like to hear other opinions about stability at highway speeds and crawling, I've driven a lifted 82' wagon with the six lug and 28's, it felt very solid, but I've never been sideways in something with big tires and pug's. Could I get away with keeping the pug steelies and just going to bigger tires without feeling too tipsy drifting at boost? Again, is the difference in stability between the pug's, and the wider offset, chevy/yota rims, really all that different? I've been pondering this issue for almost a month now, and I'm still undecided. your opinions are much appreciated.

I'm going to sit on the fence with do it sideways, you can do his cheep mod, or go the spendy route with any aftermarket RRFPR(what I did), either way, until the fuel pump takes a dump on you(by all means put a bigger pump on there if you have it lying around) you should have plenty of fuel to stock injectors. oh I'm running ~44psi, turned it to 48 once and car was way rich, hard to start, but at boost was yet again more peppy... I'll leave it at 44, for now. the RRFPR also helped with the 9psi boost fuel cut issue, now at ~12 psi boost the car won't usually cut out until WOT in 3rd pulling up a hill, when it used to do it at 5000RPM, BLOODY FUEL CUT, grrrr I too would like to see what bigger injectors will fit on these motors. On a side note, run some Lucas injector cleaner, and a new fuel filter just in case. Injoy!

Talking to myself, but now I'm broadcasting to all y'all, So mudrat's lifting the car, what I'm thinking is in trying to correct rear camber, maybe a little extra length goes into the block where the rear swing arm attaches to the body, this would level the tire out, but at the cost of increased axle angles, hummm

Camber fixes on an ea 82T Front: drill out the strut towers to look like general disorders lifted wagon, got that under control Rear: ??? talkiing with mudrat about this, the only halfway viable thing to do would be to bend the control arm at its attachment point to the body, but thats using the BFH, how could I do this and keep some sort of axle and 4 wheel alignment? Am I missing an easier fix? I'm just tired of having to flip my tires all the time, or maybe I should just keep all four wheels in line on pavement and only drift the T-wagon in the gravel, naw it's too much fun watching the passengers go white knuckle, and litterally will the car to stay on the road

I'm running a mazda RX-7 FPR, its good to 150 psi, fully adjustable, and chrome too, definitly made a difference, ~$120 new, I think I'm set at 42psi, up from 35? I'll have to check when I get home. Makes the car run a little rich at low rpm, but perfect for 10-11psi boost, Soon to come is the RX7 fuel pump:cool:

hey all, I've got the red wagon, it's the reincarnation of Sean & Erik's rally car (same white hood w/black scoop), car performed well on the track, but driver needs more experience, more mud and my LSD to kick the rear end out. the track was wide open, glanced at guages and I was going 40mph good and sloppy until truck/suv class, very cool to see such a good old school turn out...

Here is a few random questions for all ya'll turbo fanatics 1) Anybody, besides myself, running 3.90 5spd D/R in a turbo? Moved from an RX tranny to improve torque, results have been amazing, except I have to walk into 2nd gear because syncros can't handle 10psi boost:headbang: 2) Along the same lines, has anyone put 3.90 gears into a full time tranny? FWD is cool, good milage and massive torque steering, but running 4WD on dry pavement with a locked center diff on the ol' 3.90 D/R, grenades more axles than it's worth... 3) lifted turbo's, what ratio of tire size&width to axle breakage have people experienced? I.E. at what point does too much traction cause excessive axle damage.