Free Range

You can swap in the 4spd d/r, but its a ton of work...you will need a 1st gen 4wd donor car for the whole rear end, torsion tubes, hubs, brakes, diff, axles, driveline, moustach bar+ hanger, gas tank, clutch/ brake assy, shift linkage, all that is to make it single range 4wd. To get the 4spd d/r, get lucky and find a 1980-81' brat (late model gen 1 brat with the 1800 and d/r) that car alrady has the 4spd d/r, because you need the trans mounts to fit your gen 1 x-member and shift linkage off that specific trans car combo... or you can fab the trans mounts and the linkage... or you can fab in the whole gen 2 rear end, torsion tube and all... yeah it can be done, but it'll take some blood, sweat and cussing... hope that clears up some of you q's

I can only imagine what will happen to this lil' betty... Oh PM me your # or call, I'll be in bozo on sat/sun, alas with the lego, not the brat tho...

DO IT. It's a fun setup in my 79 brat, the engine fittment issues will be interesting, it depends on if you body lift the car or not. With 3" lift the frame had to go in ~1" on both sides, without any lift the frame will take the motor, but then the brake booster/ master cylnder gets really close. I know garner made his ea82t fit the brakes, but he frenched the frame... although the ea82t is wider and not as deep as the ej. If you work everything out right the d/r 5spd driveline will even fit... the shifter linkage was fun too also be thinking about front suspension, stock setup will be really soft with all that extra motor and trans. If I ever get my ride street legal I'll have to run it up to bozo town. later on

I'll give ya a holler, and remember if you don't like the weather in montana just wait 5 minutes.

"I can confirm that carb'd '90 Legacys with fwd five speed called Legacy DL had 23 spline joints..this I know cause said carb'd ej18 was placed in a buds L-series with its fwd transmission and the stock L series DL axles slid right onto it." Thats all good and cool, but the US market, unlike barbados, to my knowledge, never saw a carb'd legacy with a 1.8, or the 23 spline axles... EJ transmissions in the US have the same spline count as ea82 turbo's, 25 spline. N/A EA82's (except automatics) and all M/T EA 81's have 23 spline's. That being said, legacy 777 is absolutly right, all legacy front axles FWD, or AWD will swap with themselves, or with EA82 turbo, 3.70:1, trannies, and any automatic that's 3.70:1 I've gone roundy round (along with countless others) with Mudrat79 about this exact subject, the EA81 25 spline axle... he swears there is such a thing on a EA81 turbo coupe, but we havn't found them recently... I could be wrong, and I hope I am, so let me know where I can get 25 spline inner count EA81 axles.

DO IT! But stick in a dual range trans (D/R), not the push button (PB), you won't regret it... I've had 2 EA82 turbo's with the 3.90 D/R, now a EJ22 with the 3.90 D/R If you have to use the 5mt PB it'll still be way better than the 4eat, can't loose either way, note the center diff is locked 50/50 on the part time trans N/A cars got the 3.90:1, 85'-89' got the dual range turbo's: 3.70:1 front axles and rear diffs will have to stay with thier specific transmissions, all plug and play except neutral safety, reverse lights, and cruse cont.

The bushings in the control arm and trailing are preventing the extra flex which can make getting taller struts in a struggle, and I highly doubt you will damage cv's just prying the control arm down. The trick shown to me was to use the factory scissor jack in between the body and the control arm to get more wiggle room.

"Will an EA82 3.90 rear diff work for in a EJ car?" yes and no, an EA 3.90 rear diff is out of a non-turbo car, turbo's are 3.70:1, that being said, the rear spline count is identical on both turbo or N/A EA82, they all run the same axles, and stub axles, and internals, except for the limited the difference is the ratio's on the ring gears. you can swap the diffs around by switching ring gears to maintain the proper gear ratios. Rear stubs are all there on early EJ rear diffs, and have the same spline count as the EA diffs until at least MY 94' and most likely up to MY 97' when the rear axle gains the inner stub with the c-clip that Mcbrat is talking about. to build on the aforementioned, aka hint for mixing really new and really old: take old legacy axles and diff and set them next to newer EJ axles and diff... 'dude these things really are lego's for big kids' Enjoy -N

freedster: this info is all on usrm and many other places, but here it is again: crack em' both open at the rear plate, pull the stub axles off (torx socket) grind inner tabs off 3.90 case so it matches the 3.70 case, swap ring gear from 3.90 onto 3.70 guts, stuff lsd+ 3.90 ring gear into 3.90 case, put stubs on, seals, rear plate, fill with lsd gear oil additive and gear oil, 1.5 quarts? install, slide sideways even more often... VLSD guts are swappable just like the 3.70 lsd's, but an ea81 isn't even going to have enough power to make the viscous syle lock up... I've heard you really have to have the wheels spinning before it locks. its a street application on a turbo 2.2, go get a 3.70 lsd they work in any situation. JY $= $25-$350, pull it and tell em' it came off an old p.o.s. subaru

to add my $.02 and make it a little more complex like suberdave said :"all LSD's are 3.70:1 do to the fact that they all come out of turbo ea82 cars." all turbo ea82 cars came with 3.70:1 gear ratios automatic or manual. All manual non turbo's are 3.90:1, some (maybe most?) auto non-turbo tranny's (3eat) are 3.70:1. 3.70:1 LSD's are always in RX's and almost always in fulltime 4wd turbo cars 87'+, either auto or maunal. LSD's can also be found in earlier, or part time 4wd turbo cars, but are rare in my experience. Some fulltime 4wd XT-6's did get the 3.90:1 LSD, I've seen two... EA 3.90:1 rear diffs will swap between gen's without any modification (except 76' and older with the u-joint style axles) subaru rear lsd internals can be swapped between any diff realativly easily (@ usrm), for example I have a 3.90:1 lsd in my brat (swapped from an 87' rx) and a 4.11:1 lsd in my legacy (swapped from a 88' fulltime 4wd wagon) there are also vlsd's in 92? SS legacy's that can be swapped around, but they are best for pavement use. newer EJ turbo cars have LSD's as options, I don't know much about these. too much $$$$. Phantom grip's can be installed in rear diff's relativly easily, front diff's not easy at all... they work very well from what I hear. like ed rach said, spin one axle stub, if the other rotates in the same direction it's welded or an LSD. Happy hunting

I've run the kumho MT's, killed one on a log crossing in my lifted t-wagon, puncture through the sidewall, they went anywhere I could point them, except sliding sideways into sharp branches. My local tire factory repaced it for free. I'm going for more sidewall plies next time, MT's are not going to be quiet, but the SSR's arn't much worse than running studded snows on dry pavement for a contrast. The ssr's come factory siped and the kumho's don't, if you aftermarket sipe a tire you usually void the warranty, would have screwed me. If you have ice and snow, be aware that mt's are designed for mud, not ice, so the more little edges of rubber you have, the better. No mud tire will be a street racer, but you kinda get used to that slip and slide, squishy, humming, gnarly piece of rubber as you pull up to the milkshake stand, wink at the girls and think to yourself "these are the best drivin' round town tires ever!"

missoula auto salvage has at least 20 ea81's if parts are needed, open 8:30-5:30... give a holler if you need me to pull some parts, or a place to crash, I'm waiting on temp tags for my brat, so I'm probably not driving until friday morning... best of luck

I'll be in and around the show...

thanks much later

93' 2.2 in 79 brat, runs like a top, but how do I get the tach to read the signal from the coilpack, spliced into one of the wires just below the coilpack and I only get 1/2 the rpm's on the dash, I.E. at redline the tach only reads ~3200 r's kinda pidlty question, but I'll just have to get into a fsm and see how the legacy tach gets it's signal, just looking for somebody else to have solved my problem first... some pic's of the exterior and whatnot are here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=741

79 brat, sort of, its all subaru anyway: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6185&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 engine bay: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6184&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 how it looked in february: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6182&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 I know it needs some body work in a bad way, but it's pretty cool to eat legacy's going up lookout pass...

79' Brat, 94' EJ22, 3.90 5spd d/r, EA81 running gear, 3" lift, six lug, rear disc... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6184&sort=1&size=medium&cat=500&page=1 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6185&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 This frankenstien just drove me from Eugene, OR to Missoula, MT with no problems, at 80 mph it feels fine, by 90 its time for takeoff, at 100 it's scary. I owe immense thanks to Mudrat and all others involved, this was done on a tight timeline, and I'm very glad to have it home in one piece. some pics are up, but others will come later, I'm leaving for another while, so questions will have to be answered by Mudrat, or at a later time. thanks once again, see you at wcss -N

My 78 4wd has a tach in the dash, honeycomb grill w/quad headlights, but I'm 98% sure it's not the original dash, when I gutted the interior to fix rust and replace the heater core the tach had an aftermarket wire to the coil, instead of using the factory yellow connector on the harness. In mudrats backyard there are a few other 78 brats, niether of the others have tachs (tapps head??) so it might be a 79-80' deal like you suspect... Anyway with the 1600 you don't even need a tach, just wrapp it out until the valves float then shift.

J good to see that your ride is still moving under its own power, skip has a valid point, the radiator fan will force air up the spare tire shelf, get some sort of shrouding attached (thick innertube, conveyor belt... Mudrat has some) around the IC to seal the gap between the hood scoop(when you get one) and IC, otherwise, watch out for filling the IC with mud, not to mention that nice big cone filter -N

Now wait just a minute here Garner, your telling me this guy works on subaru's??? ha, ha, Happy belated birthday John, Randy, Wyatt, and all those other March babies out there. Well time to go get the Legacy stuck in the pig pasture. -Nels

Shell: RX or XT4 with RX suspension and xt6 anti-sway's Motor: 87'-92' EA82T, or carb'd ea82 block with turbo heads (9.5:1 compression) Trans: 3.70 5 spd hi/lo (RX), or 3.90 5 spd hi/lo. The 3.90 has far lower gearing, and is, in my opinion, superior in every way except for the locked center diff, which makes it not so hot on dry pavement (I've grenaded 3 front diffs in these transmissions with a hopped up EA82T, this was only because I was running in fwd mode and torque steering everywhere to prevent excessive driveline and rear axle breakage, in 4wd they are really strong. this is the trans the guys down under use for gymkana's. For TSD on pavement stick with the 3.70 d/r, the selectable locking center diff is nice, but again nowhere near the gearing advantage... -N

I've worked with and around Ozified and Mudrat lift kits and I'm located in Missoula, I'd love to check out working examples of homebrews and whatnot, will travel... why last week I saw a 3 door on top a yota frame with a 350 and a turbo 400 trans, funky and way up in the air Always a fan of lifted subaru's

the car will be totally gutless, turbo transmissions are geared for taller shifts, b/c turbo = more power, so later shifts. by all means go with with a 3.90, preferably a dual range 5spd, myself and a few others run 3.90's in turbo cars, closer ratio shifts = more torque to the ground. In my opinion the only reason to run a 3.70 trans is if it had fulltime 4wd and you wanted only to drive/race on the street. without too much work any trans from a 80-89 roo will fit, but do yourself a favor and stay with 3.90

I like the FPR idea garner, I used to have very simmilar problems at high rpm shifts in 1st -> 2nd, with RRFPR set at ~37 doesn't do it much, and at ~45psi never, but thats running plenty rich. as a side note, there is a definite power gain when the fuel pressure is cranked up, not sure what the max flow into the injectors versus RRFPR psi is, but doitsideways, a while back I think, was saying that ea82T's wouldn't stay together for competetion rallying unless he had the fuel pressure up around 45-50psi, so I say crank up the fuel at least a little. Others have said the stock fuel system stayed well within safe bounds @ 14psi and above, but more fuel = cooler combustion and power... yeah turbo, yeah -nels

If you are eating any significant amount of coolant, then headgasket(s) are done, period. EJ22 headgasket failures are a pain to diagnose, they only reveal themselves when the block is warm/hot. shade-tree EJ headgasket test: fill raiator with car at some incline, keep drivers side a little higher, so that the coolant will fill up and overflow the bleeder side first. screw down bleeder valve, continue till full, cap it off. drive the car with heater on, flogg it good, then, with the motor running, pop the hood and open the overflow cap(not radiator cap, unlike EA series, EJ's coolant will shoot everywhere) now manually hold the throttle open (~3-4k rpm) watch the overflow tank for bubbles. Bubbles=bad headgasket, also overflowing coolant is bad headgasket too. my 90 legacy did this, replaced the headgaskets, all better. downhill overheating: the reverse flow coolant setup these cars makes the thermostat jam with air bubbles, to get all the air out of the system is annoying, fill coolant (see above) drive car w/ heater on to operating temp, let car cool down, refill, repeat until satisfied. yet another $.02 -nels