Free Range

Take a 3.70 clutch type LSD from any fulltime 4wd ea82 turbo, swap the lsd into your proper ring and pinion set, then use '89-'94 legacy rear axles to mate to the lsd's stubbs and away you go. will need 1/4" drive deep e-10 torx to pull the stubbs...

mudrat had the 2.2+4eat in his beast, he tried snipping pin 11 to do the 4wd setup, car barely moved, had to drop trans and pull duty cyl 3 off the top of trans, remove the check ball, and re-install to make it fulltime locked, then car drove fine and dandy, ezap posted a pic of mudrat doing this on the side of the trail... there is a legacy in iceland on huge tires with solid axles, something like 39" tires and huge homebrew fender flairs... the pics are out there

you didn't tell us the axle nut came loose, I'd say the slopp in the hub with the loose axle nut is what trashed things, think about the rotor and wheel slamming against the axle and housing, big time no no. I torque axles to someithing like 150lbs...

refering to the wheel bearings on front passenger side? These should last anywhere from 10-130K miles depending on conditions, tires offsets, abuse... but just a few months shouldn't destroy bearings, I'd say use only OEM parts and beware of an already trashed hub destroying the new bearings, do you know how long the previous bearings lasted? might be cheeper to just use a whole junkyard hub assembly, might not last very long tho, crap shoot...

big bad hoopty, the logger, 4low issue: I'd bet your trans mounts are toasted, or the little bushing in the 4wd lever is wasted(like I was recently), either way, have somebody sit in the car and shift in and out of 4wd, hi, low, the works. If the whole trans moves around it's the mounts(go get some from your local yard, or pay me a bunch of $$ to get you some for cheep then add on a huge friend tax), if it's just wiggle room in the shift lever then you can adjust it, it's a 12mm nut that will allow changing the throw of the lever... on passenger side... The starter issue: Grounds, clean and inspect all of them! maybe even add a few for good measure. One thing to try is to unplug the plugs that go from your trans to the car, one is the 4wd indicator light, the other is for the reverse lights, neither should effect the drivablility of the car, but in your case the 4wd is messing with startup? so unplug them and see if problem goes away, if not you can thank me for having to climb in your car and pull apart two PITA plugs, remember push the plugs together first, then pull them apart, don't ask why, it just makes them come free easier. Mmm winter wonderland over here.

Boost gauge? you should show ~20-22 bars of vacume at idle, clean the coolant temp sensor connector, feel all vacume connections for loose fittings, these loved to pop off on mine, especially with the TMIC, Oh and your not just hitting boost cut after four seconds of boost over 9psi, are you, car pulls like mad, then suddenly runs out of fuel, feels nasty. Boost cut can happen with no mods other than a worn out wastegate spring. People are also right on with the recirculating by-pass valve on the WRX TMIC, should be plumbed back into the system, and fuel delivery issues(check plugs for residuals)... Other things to consider are putting all the stock crap back on and seeing if it runs like it used to, checking codes, turning up the fuel pressure, umm yeah, the beauty that is the modded ea82T, let alone that white thang of yours, you still got that custom air ride? -Nels

Don't know about the ea82 rack, but to use the ea81 power steering rack I've seen success welding the hardlines together(didn't think that would work), and using the lines out of an ea81 turbo should work, that pump has outputs just like the ea82, not the funky long pump that came on the ea81 n/a blocks, you need to add about 13" to those lines.

'87 GL-10 T-wagon, 12 psi boost, 43 lbs fuel press, cone intake, custom catless exhaust, 3"-Mudrat lift, 3.90 5spd D/R, rear LSD, Pug alloy's, 27" Kumho M/T's (on madmountain's ride) Car was really fun, did great on anything except really grippy surfaces where crawling was required, would do it again, but have moved to the 2.2l motor. last I heard it was still driving around Portland, OR

Yup, an STI and a Forrester are based off the same platform(impreza). All basically the same car when compared to a '83 turbo coupe. The whole question was about EA vs EJ, apples vs oranges... the only real oddball out there is the '80-'87 hatch with it's six inch shorter wheelbase, all the others have roughly comparable dimensions, being independently suspended, uni-body cars. My $.04

My long winded $.02 My '90 Legacy has a way worse departure angle than my '78 brat, or my '87 t-wagon, pretty simmilar in entry angles tho. Once the bumpers are removed off of all of them the legacy still has a worse departure angle. I have seen 28" TSL's on a non-lifted '86 t-wagon(they rubbed), and 27" SSR's on a non-lifted '81 wagon, you can get away with more bfh pounding in the fenderwell without running into things like the engine crossmember (firewall, what firewall), I can only fit 27" M+S on my forrester lifted legacy, I hit a piece of the bellypan with the front of the tire when I go bigger. I love me some EJ tho, have one in my brat, but running a welded rear diff sucks in the legacy, it's really a chore to pull a rear axle, you practically have to pull the whole hub, or drop the diff. The diff BTW is so much easier to change out in an EA series car than an EJ, there is all sorts of crap to fight you in the EJ's. In Montana there are more gen I,II,III parts avalible in the J/Y than gen IV(lego's) so cheeper to fix (Lego's all still on the road) The 4.11 5spd awd sucks offroad compared to the 3.90 5spd d/r, with the same size tires and the same motor ('90 sedan vs. '79 brat) the crawl ratio is a fair bit better. Let alone when you get a tire off the ground with awd your S.O.L. EJ's have 4 wheel camber adjustment from the factory. EA's, I redrilled the front strut towers... EJ's have stronger struts and actual aftermarket support. EJ's axles are A LOT STRONGER, my EJ '79 brat can eat front and rear axles at the same time(welded rear), and my '79 wagon eats fron't axles when you drive like I do. I've only chucked one rear axle in my '91 4EAT wagon, and thats after running the center clutches locked with a clutch type rear LSD on pavement, testing out the center diff lock switch. Long story longer, I love the EJ series, very reliable horsepower, but gear to gear timing (EA71/81) is soo much stronger. Whatever, I want the horsepower, so I've decided to put an RX box in my '91 legacy for the logging roads and keep the '79 EJ brat for offroad. They all have a soft place in my heart, but I'm growing weary of the EA82 and the EJ25 headgaskets. I always thought the best years of subaru were '78-'84(EA71/81 4WD) and '90-'96 (EJ18/22 AWD)

Two outback lifted legacy's ('90 & '91), no engine spacers, no trashed axles(yet), 30K on one of the lifted cars. I suppose you could remove the engine spacers on one outback to increase clearence...

Don't know about AA lifts, but on the Ozified and Mudrat body lifts I've played with you can almost always pull a rear axle without unhooking the diff from the mustache bar. The difference is exactly what you were getting at, the rear axle angles are greater. So if the rear diff is lowered the same amount as the torsion tube/control arms you probably will have to unhook the diff to pull axles, I have to unbolt the diff at the mustache bar on my brat to pull axles. Havn't noticed any real increase in axle breakage with the greater angles either, I still break em' but only when doing stupid abusive things repeatedly. Play hard, break stuff, fix it, second verse same as the first. party when you can, rock till you drop, thats the law -N

gonna go with the chef on this one, you go with that many mods on the brat and I'll bet on the AMC, I want to see the brat do it, but your putting a boat anchor up front, so you better ballast the rear, not to mention the steering knuckle on that 1600 bellypan won't even clear an ea81's valvecovers, let alone that six, so find an '80 or 81 brat with the ea81 and get the belly pan. you'll need to mod a ton o' stuff, fittment of the er27 with a 3" body lift is going to involve A LOT of frame rail adjustment, put the radiator in the rear, not to mention the lift blocks in the rear end will be really cool with that dual independent torsion tube setup...you got the gears turning in my head, I wish I could help, but anywho good luck.

MY'89-'94 Legacy 5spd, direct bolt in. EJ22 most bulletproof fuel injected subaru motor ever!. will work in any EJ22 car from '89-'00 with appropriate mods: Has clutch/pressure plate, so already setup for manual trans, but will go into an auto too. Dual port exhaust came on '89-'96 legacy's and '93-'96 impreza's, the '89-'94 legacy will be a direct bolt in, while most early impreza's had the 1.8L motor(EJ18), the EJ18 intake will bolt to you block and run but only about 95-97% perfect (fuel economy, not durability/longevity). '95-'96 cars will probably need their original intake bolted to your block to keep the ecu happy. any car '97-'00, with an EJ22 will work, but you will need to mate the newer intake to your block, again keep the computer happy, and source '89-'94 exhaust manifold b/c the newer motors are single port exhaust(should bolt to the rest of exhaust). I run a '97 block on a '91 legacy intake/car with a custom wxhaust manifold. gook luck, -N P.S. watch out for leaky sunroofs and get a 5spd if possible.

yo tailgate, took the 91 lego wagon, today, see pic in axle eating post... got the '78 runnin great till the starter crapped out, with the super crappy brakes I don't like how fast it goes, but whatever. I'll just have to get up and goto the junkyard now that it's not super cold... yup dayn was going for that brown shorts kinda look, btw kumho m/t suck in the ice worse than tsl's, way scary in my old t-wagon with those things on... -N

Mmm axles taste like candy... Seriously tho, with the 2.2 and the 5spd d/r, just don't drive like a jackass in 2wd, in 4wd you can get away with all the extra horses of the 2.2 and the gen 2 axles, but you, FLYBOY, NEED MORE POWER in a big bad way. this pic shows me stuck up to my gills and look how much clearence that brat has, but it just can't turn the tires without dumping the clutch at 4K...

Been a few days with the 'switch' installed in my '91 legacy 4eat. History: bought a '91 legacy 4eat 135k, blown motor and air ride susp. intalled '97 2.2, forrester struts, rear lsd. after new motor, the trans has a problem shifting from 2nd jumping into 4th, then coming back into 3rd after being lost in 4th for a few long seconds, so trans is on its way out. Now: 151K, put in 'diff lock switch' locks tranny up tight, loves to drift and wrap out, hill climb, crawl, in short I love it. BUT after running a mudbog/logging road wrc style for anything longer than a minute or two the trans/motor starts to fall on itself, only sending power at WOT. If you try to maintian 70mph it stumbles, umbles, then finally jumps to 3rd and winds out for a bit, then goes back to stumbling, does this in every single gear, so I might just be sucking water into the airbox and pissing it off, but the motor wrapps out great, just doesnt' have midrange, feels like a lost trans. when I let the car sit overnight, everything comes back normal and drives great... Methinks I'm cooking the trans, and drinking water so time for external trans cooler and home depot snorkle, I'm going to swap trans computers too, as far a codes are concerned the trans light is blinking on some startups and not on others, this is new,as it was alway fine until the 'switch.' side note, I ripped off the front bumper, part of my back bumper and tore a hole in my catless exhaust b/c of this mod. He he he Like others have said, if it aint broke, break it so you can fix it with cooler parts, planning an RX trans swap...

axle changes shouldn't require messing with either outer tierod ends, or ball joints, loosen axle nut, jack up car, pull the inner control arm bolt and swaybar bolt on control arm(if so equipped). the hub and axle will have plenty of flex hanging from the strut to walk off trans side when you pull down on the control arm. " talking about the tierod ball joint just hammer right off to the side of the ball joint, on the tie rod. " -yup, smack the hell out of the front side of the hub just below the tie rod end, should fall out...

Operose, all I did was intterupt the wire from pin 11 with a switch, with the switch on it runs normal (AWD), with it switched off the output is definitly 50/50 at the center diff.

works on a '91 4eat legacy too, just fininshed mine and tested it... none of that front wheel, then all wheel drive crap, just pure all wheels all the time like my 5mt sedan. Figured it would work cause a '97 4eat out of an impreza bolts up, plugs up and works great on a '90 legacy. So same pin location, #11 on the 16 pin connector, but it's white with black stripe on the car side and black with white stripe on the trans side... This solves the one thing that I really don't like about the 4eat, the front has to slip before the rear kicks in, no more. Thanks for finding the pin# Andyjo, with the rear LSD and the homebrew center diff lock the 4eat does pretty good. Side note adding to what Zapar said, I talked to Mudrat about this a while back when he was mateing the 4eat to the nissan t-case on his beast, he said that a subaru tech told him to cut this same line (pin 11) and it would lock the power output 50/50 so he could drive essentially in RWD, he tried it, didn't work, the beast barely moved (but it did move) I think b/c he had no front axles hooked up. So he opted to force the valve body for Duty Solenoid C to stay open permenantly. Had to pull the trans and pull the valve body off the top of the 4eat, then I believe he removed the ball check valve for duty solenoid c and the 4eat was fulltime 50/50 through the clutches to drive the tcase.

Borrow a ODB II scan tool and pull codes for the trans and motor, see what comes up. Did you fill the torque converter before re-installing trans? If all else fails install a manual trans, see write up on legacy 777's website. good luck

five subarus total: 97' legacy wagon L: burnt out parts car 91' legacy wagon LS: runs, drives, street legal 90' legacy sedan LS: runs, drives, street legal 79' brat: runs, drives but not really, broken tranny mounts, not street legal 78' wagon: runs, drives, leaky brakes, not street legal, On the ranch there are all sorts of cool old rigs, ~75% run and drive, by far my favorite is the 42' ford 2 ton dump truck, inline six, 31 mph on the highway, double clutch and all. A true goliath if I ever met one.

Big bad hoopty doesn't wanna get his hands and back dirty, aww(I'm being mean b/c your being mean to your car, and I know you deserve crap for whining on this board). Seriously, if you want axles to live longer don't hot rod the car in the corners in 2wd, whenever that inside wheel is hopping your bound to break axles, especially the passenger side where the power goes first. I've broken more half shafts than I care to admit, but I also can change them really fast now. If your axle is thrashed drive in 4wd, it will relieve the stress on the bad axle. and if you want to be racecar driver than just run in 4wd all the time, you won't ever trash front axles, just everything else. All you need is a 36mm plus braker bar, two 12mm, two 14mm, an axle pin punch, pair of pliers and a 4 or 5lb hammer, a flashlight and a big piece of carboard for the ground is also nice. just suck it up and get some lifetime axles. I've driven my brat with the welded rear end on only one good rear axle (drove really nice and steady that day). -N P.S. give a shout and I might be able to get you a cheep axle hookup in your area.

4eat>5mt swap, best thing I ever did to my 90' lego sedan, straightforeward writeup on legacy 777's website. the 2wd to awd is pretty easy on EJ series, don't think you even need to change the gas tank...

Mmm ego stroking, looks nice Mr Man, but where's the hi-flow (ricer) exhaust pics and the rocketbox... get those rear discs going on, some limited slip in the rear, and crank up the adjustable coils (at least in the rear). Don't forget the dingle balls and keep the oil and coolant full on that 'new' motor. Happy holidays from winter wonderland, 6" of fresh and fluffy overnight out on the ranch. -N