gunslinger

after viewing the vid, id say the guy was stupid. not just rich. i wouldnt have gotten out of the damn truck, much less picked up on the bumper. ive seen rigs go over simply from the driver getting out to "looky-loo". wheel safe people, i wouldnt want to wheel with that dork.

solid axles are the way to go. IFS is too complicated and doesnt have the travel. if you spring a solid right, you can flex anywhere you want to. i would persanaly go with coil springs because they look cooler. :cool: plus you can do a 3 or 4 link setup with them and thats bitchin too. yes hummers are 4 wh IFS but they are also in a completely different catagory. beefed up, different design than say a toyota. i used to wheel IFS toyotas, IFS is really limited without a LOT of $ dumped into them thats why most guys convert to solid. GO WITH TOYOTA AXLES OR HIGH PINION FORD 9'S. BULLETPROOF.

yes, they work. and not the ***gy show-n-go 4 footers either. the stockers work great. its not a matter of keeping the window clear, its a matter of keeping them LESS dirty. ]

ive done the conversion on my '86 wagon. no probs except for some minor "tuning". everything bolts in. that is, if those brats came with factory power steering. ive never seen one with power personaly.

when you turn the wheel, it has power for about 4 to 5 inches. then you get a dead/hot/sticky spot. it also tracks on the freeway and on sharp corners it grabs in the apex. perplexing, any ideas?

anyone out there converted from your manual steering to power? i did with PAP parts and ive got hot spots. i put in the pump/res/lines/rack-n-pinion, everything. ive had a shop look at it and he said i have everything hooked up right. said it was nothing too drastic so i wouldnt worry about it. BUT ITS ANNOYING! any thoughts. he said something about bleeding the air out but ive been driving it like this for a couple weeks, over to idaho too, and i check the fluid everytime i get out of the thing and its never low. AAARRRRGGH!

friday before we left for idaho, i thought i would hit PAP for a couple trinkets, and lo and behold, i found some Peugot 15" alloys!!!!! :cool: BICHIN!!!!! :cool: then i tackeled a 93 legacy with some bangin front seats. no more bar-in-the-back road trips, yeeeha. now all i have to do lift the car for the tires..... once i buy another digital cam to replace mine that got stolen, i need to get some pics up for everyone to enjoy. soon enough, soon enough.

okay people, i have verified the wether or not to use the bosch 4+ plugs. i read a few " i dont like them" and "they didnt work in my other car so i dont use them in my subie" threads but never a 1st hand expererience. the car im refering to is a stock drivetrain '86er GL wagon 4X, with a factory subie carb on it so there arent any other "improvements" to get confused with. ive had the plugs in the car for about a month and a half but havent done any long distance driving. short trips or doin a little wheelin, i did sense a lttle hesitation on some RPMs but notheing drastic. i simply thought the carb was out of tune since the motor and carb came from a donor "85 from idaho that had been sitting since '97. my fiance and i shipped out to idaho this last weekend and on the way over, at about moses lake, the high end power seemed like it wasnt there anymore. throttle: spotty. no acceleration from 3- 4000 RPMs. slowed down to the shoulder, revved it a couple times, let it cool off for literaly 2 minutes, then she ran and idled fine. perplexing. from then on, every 10 miles or so it would do the same thing. let it cool down, she ran fine. so i pulled into spokane, picked op some NGK V-powers from schucks, threw them in and drove the rest of the way to Rathdrum ID. NO PROBLEMS TO SPEAK OF. BTW, the 4+ plugs looked kind of deiseled so i would say that was the problem. drove home on sunday, didnt drop below 75 MPH the whole way home. most of the time i was passing at 80. the entire RPM range seemes like it ran with less stress and ran cleaner. take it from me, bosch 4+ plugs SUCK!! im gonna see if i can send them back to bosch to get some $ back since they were expensive. hope this helps someone choosing??

get back to me on wether or not you can use the EA82 5 sp, or the EA81 4 speed for that matter. i dont really want to use the EJ trans since i want low range and NON AUTO 4X. i really want to use it with the 4 sp D/R for the crawl speed/power and for having the lower overall gears for larger tires. ive got 2 cars with the Ea81 4 so ill be able to use one of them......

anyone know how to change your sign in name?? i cant find it. all im getting is profile changes and its not in there.

i havent noticed it in a lifted one yet, since i havent lifted any yet, but i did in my stocker.... one thiing im going to do with the engine when i lift it is to lift block the engine from the cross support. that should bring the engine up to stock stance. also, keep the factory skidplates in place, they do wonders! mine have done me well in skidding up rocks and such. holds snow out well too. maybe make some other custom ones on the sides as well?

if anyone has a detailed list/diagram on how to convert to a EJ22/5 sp, i would appreciate it. ive got a lead on a 110K motor and trans in perfect condition i want to use. ive got it figured out pretty much but it would be nice to have something to go by that someone else has already done. fabrication isnt any problem, just all the electrical hookups that get me.

that has got to be the most bi**hin conversion ive heard yet. lucky thing is, ive two sets of factory chev alloys sitting at parents place that i can snag. also, think about using the backing plate for the front discs to mount your full size spare since it wont fit in the engine compartment? weld it to a frame on the back of the custom bumper youre making? ill get some pics of the bumper/body armor setup ive got on my "86. i havent seen anyone do anything like it yet.......

im want to drop a 30k turbo crate motor with fuel injection in my '86 GL 4x. turbos good or bad? ive had a 22RE pickup with a turbo on it and that thing kicked a$$ !! are the subie turbos low maintanance with the exception of cooldowns and such? if you cool them properly will they last a while? ive heard too much about them heating up and cracking heads. let me know. the '86 has a EA82 with fact carb on it. ive get a weber but i dont want to deal with tuning.

the dent problem might be fixed by not running into anymore trees. can you tell me where i could get some of those custom chrome lug nuts?