gunslinger

REVBILL, if you decide to not pick the car up, call me and ill take it off the guy's hands. 425 478 8119. and if you need an ECU go to pullapart in lynnwood. ECU's under the dash bolted to the steering column.

to get the title/legality you need most of the glass and some resemblance of doors (i know, jeeps drive around without doors but cops are used to seeing those. theyre NOT used to seeing 80something subarus with no doors) so you dont get hassled by the p'ops. (2)you like carbs for simplicity? that seems silly. ive gone though tons of carbs but the first SPFI that i converted to has ran perfectly. even under 3 feet of water. i would HIGHLY recommend the SPFI conversion if you ar building the ultimate sube. and dont forget the divorsed tcase. thats about as ultimate as it gets. good luck man. keep everyone posted with pics

not much, i just took em all out to a bar-b-cue and showed em how cool i was and that im "the Man" offroad and they just jumped on board. you could too!!

well folks. heres some much nagged for photos of the battle wagon. heres a quick run through..... -youll see the snorkel that i was talking about that i made out of factory SPFI intake tubes and abs, among other various intake tubes in the inner fender. coffee can in the roof rack keeps the rain out. ill do a write up on it when i get some more time. -a quick shot of the interior, blue 91 loyal wheel and dash B.S. and all. the wagon's an 86 so i threw in the newer dash stuff cause i like the controls better along with the newer style steering wheel ( you cant just throw in the newer wheel for those that were wondering. you have to modify the horn actuator/spinning contact thingy). with all that i added PS and CC too. you can see the cobra remote body CB mounted to the dash with a big mouth speaker. probably the best CB you can get. really small and doesnt get in your way. slick!! the alpine CD player in the middle does really well blasting out the stock speaks. above the player is the row of ACC. switches for all the lights, dual batteries, horn and elec fan (i like to shut it off in water crossings so i hooked it up to a switch) -hood lights with brush racks, seen MANY a trees and small children -the rear bumper and side cladding. swervy calls it tank armor. it actually works really well with jumping cause it adds weight and keeps the car flat in the air. underneith the back of the car all the pinch welds and hangy-down-thingys have all been torched off so nothing hangs up. 10 gauge plate is welded on the bottom for sliding -93 legacy seats -roof rack lights tucked under the rack so no monkeys hang on them. -AND THE LIFT. IM BUILDING A CUSTOM 6" LIFT FROM SCRATCH. ILL DO A WRITE UP ON IT WHEN IM DONE BUT ILL TELL YOU WHAT. REAR'S SO STRONG THE CAR WILL FALL APART/RUST APART BEFORE THE LIFT BREAKS. im going to do a write up when the front is finished. let me just say, everything is overbuilt and ive got custom struts that i frankensteined out of pullapart cars. the struts give the car another 2 or 3" of lift. 10" travel bilstein shocks sit along side the struts. i might put bilstein coilovers in to replace the struts and shocks setup when i get back. f-n ridiculous!!! more on it all when the project is actually finished. so far the back has about 8-9 inches of free travel. THE ROOF AT THE REAR TIRE SITS AT 59". BI***IN!!! -drivers fender shows all the sponsers kind enough to supply me with free shiznat. high roller you know. anyway, thats what i drive in the mud. hope you like the pics. ill be doing a write up of a couple trips weve done with some pics and some airtime photos. get back at ya when i get back from workin on the gulf coast. dont know how long, you'll all know as soon as i do.

your right. thought i might ask for others experiences with them. i am going to take mine back though. they might work in carbed rigs but it hasnt helped in my SPFI. maybe a little lower end? but not enough for the cost.

i would run them together i suppose. makes things easier it would seem to me. i know about running things parallel, amps, speakers; back in the young and dumb sterio days. you would just switch the power/ground on the second alt right?? that would stop it form overcharging the system?

how exaclty would one wire up dual alternators? ive got the dual batteries with the isolator and all but i want to add an alt. anyone know??

suckers, huh? who's the cocky s**t? if im a sucker, then where does that leave 84GL? mine runs and drives great, he's SOL. figure it out for youself. see you in the water.

do you KNOW that or is that a blanket statement.

has anybody bought one of those tornado intake thingys that you can buy at schucks or whatnot?? supposed to slide it into your intake tube to give you better gas mileage and power or whatever. well, i just bought one and figured if it didnt work i would take it back in a week. taking off out of the parking lot, it seemed to actually have more power. the little bottom end lag wasnt as bad as normal. ill get back to you folks on how the mileage is after our chelan trip. ill really be able to tell then with some highway miles.

actually, i dont know why the post looked like that, i didnt caps anything :-\ . and as far as pulling the axle, i have been driving it on the pavement for a week now, hard i might add, and i havent had any probs. ill be leaving the axles in thank you. taking the time to take axles out hinders the "excapability" factor....

ALL the schucks carries it (at one time or another, iive been to every one in the surrounding 20KM around bothell), bigger NAPA's - not the little private guys, autozone, B&B, GIJoes, action auto.

dont forget to hit the front of the hub with a hammer to dislodge the tapered washer behind the castle nut, THEN you can tap the hub off from behind. to get the studs seated properly the BEST way, is to mill the ribs off with a drill press/lathe. if you grind them youre most likely going to end up with crooked studs. good luck.

If Youre Going Off Road Just Weld The Rear Diff Up. Dont Ask Questions. After You Do It And Test It, Youll Figure It Out. Lsd's Dont Even Compare.

Whats The Deal With Code 14-crank Angle Sensor. We're Working On A 87 Gl We Put Spfi On A Month Ago. Its Been Running Great, No Probs, But It Just Quit Today - Sputtered And Quit Like Out Of Gas - And Is Throwing Out Code 14. I Threw In Another Disty Out Of A Spfi Spare Setup Sitting In My Garage And The Car Still Wont Start?? What The Hell...

dont think so sparky.... we'll see who's looking better stuck in the mud with their airbox full of water. LOL

landcruisers too, ive pulled out landcruisers. i love yotas and all but 4xing a friggin wagon car beats it all.... LOL

VANISLRU you mention the whitish blue residue under the oil cap.... every subie i own (82 & 86 EA81's/'86 EA82) has or has had whitish resie under the cap. maybe its just venting moisture from the motor?? they do see water.... im always checking to see if it gets worse - head gasket.

as stated in earlier threads, always try to get the donor equip out of matching cars, example: auto/auto, 5sp/5sp, 4x4/4x4, etc. it doesnt matter too much but it helps A LOT. my 86 wagon had no probs with the 90 wagon SPFI that i installed. REMEMBER, GET ALL THE HARNESSES. engine, inner fender, COMPLETE dash harness. dont try to do the cut/rewire/fuses-here-and-there approach. if you get the complete harness you can plug everything in and be done with it. ive done two now. no probs with either of them. mine just doestn work with the cruise cause i dont think its all hooked up. heres my setup; car - 86 wagon/4x4/5sp/'89 turbo column w/cruise controls/'90 dash bezel and controls. SPFI donor car - 90 wagon/4x4/5sp/cruise/ac/trip comp. i converted the dash to the newer style so i did a little more converting. if you dont get the same harness the trans might not plug in like mine but that just tells you when youre in 4x4 pretty much so no biggie. also, dont forget to get the SFPI fuel pump, distributor and convert the fuel lines as stated in the SPFI tech write up. good luck.

LOL. im up to three now (total vehicles #ing 5, sold the danger ranger 2 weeks ago) and was going to pick one up earlier this month but it fell through cause it turned out it had a salvage title and i wasnt going to pay what he wanted for it. getting married may 1st and my girl doesnt want me blowing all my cash on subies. as much as she likes them and all. turns out, her dad used to drive a '77 wagon? i think it was '77. 4x'ed it hiking/camping/shooting/hunting/exploring everywhere so she loved subies. call me lucky nice score on the XT. i want to find a turbo wagon for long haulin'.

NGK VPOWER. NGK VPOWER. NGK VPOWER. NGK VPOWER. NGK VPOWER. NGK VPOWER. NGK VPOWER. NGK VPOWER. NGK VPOWER. thats all i have to say

after reading everyone's info, sounds like you solved it or close to it. swervey and i both had the prob on carbs. swervy had fun with it till he blew the back of his brand new muffler out.... we both weld so we unbolted the hard steel lines coming off of the heads by each exhaust port and pinched/welded the lines shut @ approx 2". no probs after that. you get rid of the whole system that way. also, the muffler IS too big/too much flow. my 87 yota had the same prob when i put a header and too large exhaust on it. put a higher flow muffler on it but not a really big one/or one with no baffles. you need some backpressure with these subie motors. hope this helps.

dang. nice parts runner. i wish i would have seen that one bfore you so i couldve auction sniped ya.......

nobody here's offended. 's just stupid that you cant get my point. here it is again if you didnt understand the first time: 1 SPFI WORKS GREAT. 2 you have to get the stock intake parts if you are going to do the swap. 3 the water wasnt any deeper than a puddle. thats my point. i have no probs with the SPFI other than you need to pay attention to where the intake is under the fender and drive accor .................................................. im so done with this issue. you folks cant seem to get the picture so im not going to argue it anymore..... ill keep my opinions to myself next time i find something out.