gunslinger

thats where i mounted my second battery. modified the spare tire bar and built a battery tray. and yes, there is an isolator in there somewhere. all my subarus have graduated to the "no carpet" grade so i like to go in water now. as far as lights, ive 2 forward, 4 on the sides - top and bottom, and 2 in the rear. i can run all of em with no hiccups in the charging system.

http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f124/volcomey/?action=view&current=IMG_1362.jpg

put two batteries in and run the lights off the second one. then you dont have to worry about the alternator. ive been running 8 lights on the battlewagon (off and on of course, cant have a 360* radius of lights running at all times) for about a year now and havent had one problem with my alternator. also, if you hit any REAL water - you will MOST LIKELY get it in that snorkel intake. dont get me wrong, it looks great. i had a hood intake on the battlewagon first and it took two water crossings onto my windshield to refigure to the pillar. this is what i did on the battlewagon - http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/subie_snorkel.jpg the top and bottom 90* bends are factory subie SPFI intakes. works great.

put two batteries in and run the lights off the second one. then you dont have to worry about the alternator. ive been running 8 lights on the battlewagon (off and on of course, cant have a 360* radius of lights running at all times) for about a year now and havent had one problem with my alternator. also, if you hit any REAL water - you will MOST LIKELY get it in that snorkel intake. dont get me wrong, it looks great. i had a hood intake on the battlewagon first and it took two water crossings onto my windshield to refigure to the pillar. this is what i did on the battlewagon - (if it doesnt show up - its in my members photos section. i still cant figure out how to upload pics on threads and posts ) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/thumbs/battlewagon_snorkel.jpg

oh, im sorry. i do have a lime green '85 4x4 GL wagon with 330K on 'er. forgot about her since i got her for free and she hasnt been driven since i parked her in the back of the yard.

veronica has the "eye". (82 wagon) button on the dash says "center lamp". and it works with the low beams too. i checked under the dash and theres no "fancy" wiring to it so i would say that the low beam setup is factory. ive also got three more of the light/motor/bracket/wiring setups in the garage that ive been collecting over the years. the hatch is gonna get one before long. just need the quad headlights.

1) the chicken and the egg again. i try not to steal period. its against my religion. small parts that fit in my bag i dont count since all that little junk isnt on their price sheets anyway. if they dont want to take the time to price/catagorize it, then its free to me. but people stealing IS inherantly the biggest reason prices go up any where aside from inflation or whatnot. 2) after my first post, i tried pressing out the EA82 joints. FRIGGIN TOUGH. with a press it was damn near a workout. i would definently agree with the fact that subaru did not design them to come out. BTW - SCRAP487 - car companies dont make any money off greasable parts on cars. why do you think that ford explorers do not have zerk nipples on any of their front end componants? its to sell replacement parts. just because an item on a car going to wear and break doesnt mean it will have any provisions for maintenance. 3) pulling the driveline apart and buying the back half would be fantastic if i wasnt swapping a 5 speed into a hatchback and i need the whole thing because the 4 speed driveline is 4 inches to short. also, if you buy the back half it will cost you $11.50 for the driveline, and $13 for the two yolks ($6.50 ea). totaling $24.50 for the HALF + tax. go figure the yolks would cost you more than the driveline itself. i was just thinking - how can they charge you SEPERATELY for a part that you cant even get out in the yard without a press or some other large shop machine?? that seems like a racket to me for sure. then you have to go home and press them apart and take the parts back that you dont need. bul#@*&t. anyway, im gonna paint pen the old part and take it back for a refund. they can eat the *kin thing for all i care. and yes, i know thats stealing, thank you.

mine all have under 140K on em but i have seen 4 high mileage troopers in PAP over the years: 87 4x4 wagon - 440K 85 2 door sedan - 465K and the winna IS!!!! a MINT grandma owned and operated (even had the catholic cross on the dash ) 1980 fully loaded 2wd wagon - same khaki as my veronica - showing 598,387 MILES!!!! i even wrote the mileage down as i was so impressed.

mine all have under 140K on em but i have seen 4 high mileage troopers in PAP over the years: 87 4x4 wagon - 440K 85 2 door sedan - 465K and the winna IS!!!! a MINT grandma owned and operated (even had the catholic cross on the dash ) 1980 fully loaded 2wd wagon - same khaki as my veronica - showing 598,387 MILES!!!! i even wrote the mileage down as i was so impressed. i wish

thats a trip meter/fuel meter/gadget/widgetthingy. fancy stuff for geeks. thats why i wanted to put one in my wagon. found out that you have to have the plugs from the harness to plug it in. i dont have the plugs in any of my wagons. safe to say that you need the digi dash to use it since the only dashes ive seen that have the plugs were the digi dashes.

also, irrigardless of whether or not they are replacable. when you look at a price sheet and figure out a price for an item or items, and then go to pay for it and they say "oh, not EVERYTHING is on the price sheet", that sounds kinda scammy to me. make a double sided price sheet then if theyre isnt enough room on one side. forget the silly map for the renobs that cant just look through the yard for their car. if I at least KNOW what im paying for then i wont get so pissed.

call northwest driveline. they wont do anything with them unless they build you a new one or balance your old one. they told me the ujoints are pressed in by the factory and are not replacable. BTW - ive replaced inumerable joints in my toyota and chevy. ive tried doing it on my wagon and found that i am in belief with NWD. they WOULDNT come out.

well, now PAP is charging PER YOLK AND driveline. i just bought an '87 wagon driveline with carrier bearing today and they charged me FRIGGIN $48 bucks!!! ive been buying these things here for years and theyve always been $11.50. manager told me that they charge the $11.50 PER driveline (carrier bearing in the middle designates that there is two drivelines.....), and $6.50 PER YOLK!!! the yolks costed me more than the driveline itself!! now, correct me if im wrong here, but you cant replace the ujoints in a subie driveline so therefore if you break the yolk on the one in your car, YOU NEED A WHOLE NEW DRIVELINE. there isnt a point in charging you for a non changable yolk/Ujoint then. you can confirm this with northwest drivelines, $400 bucks to make a whole new one since the u joints are not changable they said. whatever. im PISSED. this is the 4th or 5th time that this has happened to me in the last few months (price changes/gouges) so im beginning to think that PAP is starting to get frisky with the prices. all this will do is make people be dishonest when they check out, ive always emptied out my bag when i pay as to be as honest as possible. makes you want to start slipping stuff into your bag - sad to say. let me know if anyone else has noticed this.

wait, wait, wait. is that an EA82 hatch?? or a wagon chopped off. cant tell. if it were really a wagon, id like to get one. i really love the EA82 looks.

so 10 am in the morning at mcd's. since i hate mcd's and i live in gold bar anyway, ill meet yall up at reiter. swervey might be there too?? he just replaced his NEW tires - that he kept popping - with some others that will stay intact. one hitch, ive got to see what james G murphy auction has on firday. if i have to bid on some epuipment on saterday, then ill have to meet everyone later. be on channel 2 on the CB. over n out. BTW - hatchy, ill have the hatch. she's as stock as it gets with OEM subaru cassette player. oh yeah, and the rear is welded and she has a 5 speed now. see ya there buster.

SWEEET exhuast!!!! that did it. im changing the battlewagons exhaust to that. i love it. just where do you get those flappers though?? anyone know of where you can buy em instead of homefabbing some POS thing?

gotcha. yeah, i did a cooper search on em too and that didnt come up with anything. anyway. im not really interested in them, just curious as to what they were. ive got a "brother in law" of my own thats getting me a set of SSR's at the infamous washington version of a sema show in renton in the fall $115 baby. beat that.

also, youre gonna want to trim some more off those roof rack bars. mine were that long and even hugged closer to the roof and i tore the whole system off the car along with the chrome trim..... well, that was the beginning of the "battlewagon" transformation. all in all, the DL looks good.

[quote= 235/75/R15 Bronco M/T's total price for 4 (will need to find a spare still)....$120 mounted and balanced tomorrow or Friday depending on when the Pugs actually show up..now that's a good deal even for off-brand tires. Which is defintely keeping with the "Project Cheap" theme. ive done a ton of searches on bronco tires and cant find anything. what are those things and where can you get them??

i just finished putting a 1986 EA82 5sp into my 1986 EA81 hatch. i did a quick updated writeup in the USRM board on some things that i didnt see mentioned in other writeups. hope this helps.

i just finished a "86 GW wagon EA82 5sp into a "86 EA81 hatchback conversion. couple things i wanted to mention here that arent mentioned in other writeups. these are things that i simply noted on with my hatch conversion. they may not apply to all conversions. 1) you need to use the EA81 tranny mounts in the EA81 tranny crossmember. you cant use the EA82 mounts because they are the wong angle. unbolt the mounts from the 4 speed and bolt them on the 5 speed. 2) the floor will need to be cut farther out towards the rear of the vehicle in the trans hump for the shifters. i just welded a 1" piece of flat stock across the hole and drilled through that and the shifter mount and bolted them together. then i "hot-knifed" the old rubber mounted rear mount off. the new mount that i made made the shifting a LOT more positive. no rubber to squish around 3) MAKE SURE to bash up the trans tunnel. the top of the tranny WILL hit. i need to go back and cut some spots out cause the whole car vibrates with the trans now. it hit towards the rear of the tranny on mine. the front clears fine. 4) when you grind out the opening on the bottom of the bellhousing, you will also need to get rid of the tin inspection plate. that is what drags the most on the flywheel. 5) starter to flywheel interface is the same with both flywheels and both starters. the two flywheels are about 3/16" difference in height of each other but i tried both starters and both work fine. no ginding involved there. 6) bellhousings match up perfectly. no differences there either. hope this helps any further questions.

<P><P>sounds good to me. ill see you guys there if im not busy. im up here in gold bar so im not far. im only gonna have the hatch, the battlewagon still isnt finished.

only things that i can remeber to do is to make sure to make the drilling of the holes a 3 or 4 step process - EG - step the bits up bigger and bigger till you get to the right size. AND FOR THE RECORD, 35/64 is the correct completed size to seat the lugs. too big a bit will burn it out fast. lastly, dont forget to mill the back of the plates flat just enough so the lugs seat properly @ 90 degrees. if you dont, then your lugs will be crosseyed . i would also recommend doing the bearings while youre in there seeing how they go bad so often anyway. throwing 15's and 28 or 29's on there will only ruin older bearings quicker. good luck to all with this project. AND HAVE PATIENCE!!! dont drill the sh** out too fast. you WILL regret it!!

i have the turbo exhaust setup on the battlewagon.there are a couple issues at hand. 1)you need a turbo crossmember or make the cutout on your own. the pipe wont fit through the space between the axle and the crossmember. i cut the crossmember and welded in a new section for support myself. i was too lazy to get the turbo member cause you have to change out the PS lines with the member. bleeding PS systems suck. 2)you need the turbo PS hard lines under the motor if you have PS. the nonturbo's will hit the pipe 3)you have to pull out the nonturbo header studs and use the other 2 holes. morganM is correct on that. 4) i cut all the insulation/skid material off to get some solid material to weld to including the flange that bolts to the turbo. you then need to put a flange in the engine compartment so that your exhaust can come out in 2 pieces instead of never being able to come out of the car. 5)weld a new O2 bung for the O2 sensor (if you need one) i have SPFI 6)you need to weld new pipe in going from over the member down to the existing exhaust. schucks or whatnot has 90* bends and such you can use for this. all in all, awesome mod. NEVER HITS ROCKS. skid plate covers the whole thing. problems - i believe the pipe is too small. i feel i lost a LITTLE power. cant be too sure but i think so. im going to tear the whole system off and run the exhaust above the transmission and driveline once im done lifting the battlewagon. there's plenty of clearance there for it and it'll NEAVER hit rocks there. so what if it's louder...... ANYONE THAT WANTS TO BUY THE COMPLETED SYSTEM FROM ME ONCE I TAKE IT OFF IS MORE THAN WELCOME. ILL LET YOU ALL KNOW ONCE I GET IT OFF. ill take some pics of the header setup tomorrow and post them since im not near the car right now.

swerve and I just finished milling out the wheel plates on the 87 GL. it's cake (if you happen to have a mill...... whiiiiiich i so happen to. ) mines next. he seemed to think that the spare plates that I pulled out of storage would work well on his........ so now i get to do another set for the battle wagon. mooch. swampers come next. cant WAIT to get the wagon out of the garage with the lift finished and swampers on it. THE TRAILS AWAIT!!!!