gunslinger

i doesnt leak, at all. and i used castrol ATF dexron III to refill it. thats where im at. im thinking maybe my steering column might be loose. it really shakes like crazy back and forth if you pull on it. the car has to have tons of miles on it. i think the seller put a newer tach in it, bastard, anyway, maybe ill throw a new column in and see if that helps.

are all turbo wagons rear LSD's? the ratio is 3.70 if that makes any difference.

NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK. all the way. read my "do not use bosch +4 plat plugs" post.

looks great!!! i love home fab stuff. i would think of making the engine crossmember blocks out of one piece of "C" stock or square stock though to resist flexing or whatnot. throw a completed write up on the tech page. everyone would love to read it.

heres the deal, i drove my '82 for probably a year with one of the front axles broke. couple trips to idaho and back, no problem. it got to the point where the front end bounced left/right at 50 mph. so i replaced the drivers, which was broke, bad. now it still has a slight noise similar to the broke axle but the other one isnt broke and the boots arent even cracked/fatigued. did i ruin the hub bearings or the trans bearings? are there trans bearings that can get ruined that i can replace or would i need to have a shop do it, or drop in a EA82 5sp? hopefully its just the hub bearings, those are easy.

i drove mine for approx a year with the bearing BROKE. the boot was blown forever, but the bearing itself broke. it was louder than hell but kept driving. i think i ruined the hub or trans bearing though, replace it as soon as you can, it'll probably save you some more cash.

i tried the whole wheels off the ground, turn the wheels, add the fluid.... still has "dry spots". maybe the pumps bad, or the rack n' pinion. i dont know. im still baffled.

i put legacy seats in my 86 wagon. its bunch of work, you cant just move this, adjust that. prepare to fab/weld some brackets and stuff. FYI, the inner/tranny hump holes will fit, but the outer mounts will be need to be fabbed. also, when you get the seats in, theyre a shade higher than the legacy seats so keep that in mind. the seats i used are bangin high end seats so the driver's has a lever to move it up/forward and back/down simultaniously (sic?). sweet:cool:

punch it out the fender like Qman says. you can squeeze the PVC right by the charcoal canister and out the fender. i sealed the end of the fact. air box, and used the inlet from the hot air intake. the one on my '83 wagon looks like a rounder version of the safari snorkel w/a cone K+N on it. if you take the time, you can make it look really cool. :cool: plus, wrap the haggard hole you cut in the fender with edge trimming to clean it up and cover the now-exposed metal. good luck. pics will be coming sooooonn............

i know theyre metric. im probably gonna take them back to PAP. you cant get any swampers on em. bummer. = ( if someone knows where to get tires for them and want them ill sell them.

there is a PAP in everett but they generally dont have anything, lynn has more. and the people are nicer. everett has,.. well,... everett folk. svengouli7, what pugs do you have?? id be interested, depending.

i do know that the front axles from my my 82 EA81 are shorter than the axles for the EA82. the shafts look a shade thicker/beefier too??

ill try it. anything will help. PS fluid is PS fluid right? the bottle says PS fluid on it. im not using ATF. i know the RPM varies it, but i dont wheel the car as much as my others so i dont care. i want PS for the road. im just basing it on the fact that my buddie's '87 doesnt have any probs.

ill be doing one soon, though i lost the low KM motor @ PAP, they junked the car. my '85 hatch isnt seeing the road till its how i want it, EJ22/tcase/lift/welded diffs. how much is the adpt. plate you make? not shopping, just satisfying my immediate curriosity.

YUP. they were against the processing fence, north end...... you stash them there for later?? looks as though someone had put them there cause there werent any pugs in the area. i asked around the yard but no one said they were theirs so i snagged em.

nope. sorry bud. not a "plug n play". the trans tunnel mounts will work, hammer the front mounts 90*, "L" but the outsides dont. front outside; i welded 1/8" plate (1" x 2.5") w/ a hole drilled in it for the bolt, to the front of the mount to drop it down cause the seat's mount is too high. the outside rear mounts are tricky cause you have to hover the mount above the floor approx 2-3" if you dont want to get rid of the rear window defroster plastic tunnels. i used the stock seatbelt location to bolt to...... i took longer seatbelt bolts from 'yota pickups, (cause the soobie seatbelt bolts are 16mm. good luck finding longer 16mm........ 14mm's dont work, they wobble. not good on seat mounts. )shimmed them out from the outside seatbelt hole with a welded tube shim, and bolted 1.25x1.25" SQ. stock tube 3" long to the side of the car. the other side from the bolt head i cut out w/ a hole saw so the socket could get in there. then i set the seat in the car, loosely bolted it in and wherever the last mount sat, i welded a stud to the SQ stock. throw a nut on it and away you go!! good luck if you plan on throwing some in your rig. for $16.50 a piece i would say theyre the best mod to the rust pile! the seats are bichin:D, way more comfortable then the old bar-in-the-backs. SORRY FOR THE LENGTHLY EXLPENTATION W/NO PICS. i need to replace my digi cam that was stolen so i can get pics on for everyone.

10" min huh?? sounds fun but a lot more work then I thought it would be. not complaining, i love fabrication. you should se the "3 wheeler death bike chopper" sitting in my garage . i figured i would have to straight axle the rig to get it where i want it. ive got a pair of 'yota sticks lying around i can use so that shouldnt be a problem. have you used coils or did you use leaf when you straight axled it? ive mostly used leafs but i really like the look/function and the different link opportunities that coil provides. thanks for the quick and dirty

if you want to burn me a disc i would really appreciate it. if you had the rig at your place i wouldnt mind dropping in and checking it out at the same time i pick up the disc. im 2 min from mnt lake terrace so im not far from you. let me know if thats cool w/ u to drop in. email me your addi if so. thanks eric.

how long have you had the car on the road at one time? mine only started really acting up after the motor got nice and hot. if you havent had some long distance driving done in the car (4-8 hours at one time) then i would say you havent seen the problem yet........

are there any good links that i can dive into that would really explain it in detail or give good pics/diagrams?

Qman, let me know if you guys go out next weekend. id love to go on a virgin voyage with y'all. sunday would work for me, i really have to work saterday, stupid side jobs.

i keep hearing about the nissan tcase. how do you mount it up to your trans? whether it be a 4 or 5 sp. also, i know toyota t cases are bulletproof, from experience, so would you be able to use a yota case?

ill be happy to make a donation to the board for the wiring schematics. ive been planning to make some donations anyway. let me know when/how soon youre going to be doing the write up.

i replaced the bosch 4+ plats with the NGK V-powers. highly recomended to use the v- powers, im back to getting 22-23 MPG instead of the trip over, where i got 16-17MPG.

ill get some pics for everyone once i replace the camera that was stolen out of my truck (i wish they would have had the balls and came in the house with the pistol they stole too . )