wrxsubaru

Recently I changed a clutch on a 92 legacy pulled the engine and transmission to do it. Everything went pretty smooth but during the reinstall I lost the speedo clip. So I took it for test drive and it ran great, but during the test drive the except speedometer cable separated at the joint. Now after the speedometer starts off at 15 MPH. The speedometer seems reliable but its off by about 15 MPH for all readings. Has anyone run in to this before? Does anyone have an idea on how to fix the problem? Thanks

Sorry its been a while ive been busy with school and work. Tomorrow i am going to work on the car. Yeah the sensor i replaced was the brown. I got the temp sensor from the dealer and they gave me some ideas on what could go wrong. Is there any common relay that could cause it?

No it does not come on with the AC button but the AC is not hooked. It died a couple years ago. Ill go try your idea. Thanks for the response!

I have a 92 legacy 5spd and the radiator fans wont turn on. I have checked the fuses and have replaced the temp sensor with no luck. Any ideas thanks.

Well it would mount up physicly but the wiring would be a pain in the rump roast, and if you went with a 250HP one which comes with vastley better heads. You would run into one huge wiring because of the key immobiliser, ive heard its such a *************** to mess with its easier to go full standalone engine management. Iam not telling you not to do it, iam just saying its not going to be nearly as easy as pretty much any other subie swap.

Drivers side is good.

Ok i changed a wheel bearing that was going out on a 92 legacy 5spd AWD and afterwards what used to be a slight cluck from the front drivers side end, turned into a very loud noticeable one coming from both the drivers and passenger side now. I went over every nut and bolt that touched and there all tight. Another very weird thing that I thought the wheel bearing was some how causing but wasn't, was randomly after driving the car for a while the steering wheel will shake about 10 degrees each way and not change the direction of the car at all. It acks like a bent wheel but if you apply throttle it stops shaking, and it does it randomly at different speeds, and it always ends up suddenly stopping. Could it be a steering rack, broken engine mounts? Any ideas?

I dought there is since there the same block.

I would hust stay up on tire rotation, air preasure, and keep thje tires matched. Abusing the center diff making it work hard(having a tire in the air) will cause it to heat up and that will take life away, but thats about it. Ive been very abusive and have never had a problem with them so maybe it was complete neglect, or maybe a defective center diff.

It should work. You will need the 5spd trannie, new drive shaft, a rear end that matches the front diff, clutch, flywheel, manule pedal assembly, shifting linkage, manule drive shaft. I may be missing some small things but those are the larger ones.

Ive seen way more than 5, 5spd 91 legacy turbos in seattle alone, and about 20 on ebay.

This is the one thing i disagree with you on, in some situations it would be faster and easier to get the car into a slide to get out of the way or get around a corner, and ESP will not let you do it. ESP is not a perfect replacement for good driving and will not compliant it alot of the time. It will slow a good driver down. But it will for well over probably 70% of the genrale population help.

Iam running a 92 legacy 5spd behind the eg33 which is probabley putting out 240ft pounds+ And while the trannie is not in perfect shape, syncors are going. Its been running for a while now 10k and ive put alot of abuse in it, whith a very agrseive clutch. I really wouldent worry about the the trannie not holding the power, the difrence in strenght between the two is probably non existent.

No the ez30 is not like the ej20, they are in a completey diffrent engine familey, i dont think they share one single componet between the two. The EG33 (SVX engine) Is almost exactley just like a ej22 with 2 more pistons, and, better flowing DOHC heads, and a higher compresion ratio. Aculey the EG33 is spose to use ej22t rods, and has a very similar psiton design.

I went and looked at it while picking up a part for my SVX. I have to say that it looks alot better than the pictures give it credit for. I also tried to sit in the back seats, i am 5.11 165 pounds, and while i dident fit completley comfortley, no leg space, i could imagine 2 of me sitting back there in a pintch, and could easiley imagine some childeren sitting back there with out any problems. It also seemened to have some very high fit in finish with high quality interior materials. Over all if i had a couple of kids, and had space problems with a 05 legacy turbo 5spd, i would probley opt for it. Asumming it keeps the subaru sportiness in it.

I know someone on here has changed the wheel bearings on a outback, or legacy for that matter.

Iam going to change the front drivers side wheel bearing in a 98 outback this sunday and iam wondering if there is any good write ups on how to do it, or any personal tricks or expericance to get it done? Thanks.

Like other people have said, a full exhaust (uppipe, down pipe, and the rest) and a tune would be the best bang for the buck performance. Cobb tuning has great quality parts, but the engine managment that they use is kind of limited so if you plan to go crazy with it (larger tubro, injectors, fuel pump) i would rather go with something other than accessport. But if you plan on doing a couple of things it should work great. I wouldn't recomend a intake upgrade because most of them create iratic intake readings which make the car run lean or rich which is not good for it.

Iam pretty sure that there is a size diffrence between the hubs of the two cars that won't allow them to be inerchangable. If you really wanted to lift it, you could fab up some spacers, or you could buy the ground control springs, with the adjustable collor. I think you would have the ability to lift it about 2 inches over and under stock. But the spring rates are so high you would need to also swap in some Koni inserts. I would post this over at http://www.subaru-svx.net allot more svx people over there. Just wondering why would you want to lift it?

I belive the specs are 1/2 - 1 inch of play in the pedal before it pulls on the cable.

Ive always used the starter method for both the crank and the cam bolts. I to jam a screwdriver onto the accses hole but it never held.

It may not be a stright swap, but the engine mounts are the same as the rest of the ej serries (iam pretty sure), and it has the same trannie bolt pattern. None of the ej series would be a stright swap into brat all would require some serious wiring. It would be one crazy half shaft snapping brat tho, and if you got some stuff for the engine you could probley get it up to 260 + ft pounds pretty easiley.

Thanks for the response, I am pulling the engine to do the head gaskets to try to make that easier. Ive pulled the auto before on my SVX and the was a PITA, but i dont remebr disconecting the torq converter, but i will try it.

Yeah many people have removed the engine from the SS and put it into a impreza.

EG33, and you gain like 20 more ft pounds with a stage 1 ecu.