superu

What year was an H6 first offered in an Outback? I'm interested in H6 front coil springs for my rig but hope for maximum compatibility with my current applications. I'm running a 95 legacy on 98 OB struts (a sweet easy lift), but have a heavy front bumper/skid plate combination. So I'm hoping H6 coils (as i understand, they're a bit stiffer rate as the coils are thicker) may fit 98 OB GR2 struts. Thanks, -mark-

bumpity

Ahh the lightweight EAs under EJ power!

Just received my new GR2s, but silly tirerack sent me 1 Excel-g! so, a bit more shipping and I'll have the 4 GR2s! AND just ordered a pair of KC fogs for $29.95 each on amazon to tuck into my bumper in place of these other lights Then eventually and finally a pair of black slimlite driving lights for the top of the bumper Still researching coil springs though. . . .

Yeah, Brian, I think I read that thread too. Was that the one about raising an outback?? It was pretty good and had pics too (if its the same thread). *edit* Actually the one I am referring to was on the DI forum, http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6736&referrerid=3937 *edit* But weren't they talking about the 04+ forester springs being different at the top? Like that year and newer were tapered coil (reduced diameter coil) rather than uniformly columnarIlike all in pic above)? Then i think its the tophat for that tapering spring that ends up pushing the car up more. I think it was Gloyale here that said tire clearance is less on FOR struts than on OB struts (lower spring perch is a hair closer to the mounted tire), when doing a strut lift on an IMP or older legacy. I keep thinking (which is why I'm looking for varification that forester springs are stiffer than OB springs. Forester's tend to ride a bit stiffer than OBs and FOR and OB are comparably heavy compared to IMPs. My wife's IMP (on forester springs in front and legacy springs in rear) is pretty bouncy (foresters are like 360 pounds heavier), but when full of passengers the IMP rides normal. So if foresters are kind of stiff compared to outbacks, that's what makes me think forester springs in an OB or legacy would be not as stiff but similar to kings... AND AlpineRaven siad (long ago in another thread) that legacy springs are the same as outbacks. SO.... Ifthat's the case then Forester springs are taller than OB (as in my above pic )..... BUT, this is still all anecdotal. If only I'd had my OB springs out when I did the wife's IMP thanks, -mark- *edit* PS: just found and read the OB.org thread http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17450&perpage=20&pagenumber=1 similar info as the DI thread with lots of info but some different and minor changes to the theme... I'm interested in if FOR are taller/stiffer than OB, and now also if H6 (from OB or SVX) front are stiffer than H4 springs... thanks

This is good, and I know its WAY old, but does anyone have forester or outback spring rate and measurement info! Attached is more spring info I got hereyears ago, but still missing OB and FOR..

BTW, what are/were you running the GR2 OB strut king spring combo in? Do you have pix and such and would you mind looking at and maybe addressing some of my questions in that scorpion owners' feedback thread?? http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102561 Thanks, -mw-

I've seen this picture on the forums (porcupine73), and this reminded me. Have you checked out my thread looking for king spring owners' opinions? http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102561 I know I know, there are a lot of questions in there. . . Anyhoo, I'd love to get your feedback on those springs. Are those raised springs or regular OB springs? I know the raised will lift the car an inch and a half to 2 inches, but i think that's too much for my non-OB subframe components... Thus my thoughts that forester springs might be a touch taller than OB.. But I'm just not sue, never having had them both in hand simultaniously. Thanks for the pic and for reminding me there's another king spring owner out there that, i knew there had to be more than the 2-3 people that chimed in to that thread..

Yeah, I hear what you're saying. I've had people tell me that when they did strut lifts (like on IMP of Lego), they did FOR and OB and someone (I think gloyale) said there was less clearance for a taller tire with FOR compared to OB struts. This makes me think the FOR springs are longer, to fill in the longer space and potentially slightly longer strut travel?? here is a pic of an old OB to a new FOR to an old Legacy strut. The lower spring perch on the FOR strut looks slightly lower (read: closer to the tire, when mounted) than the OB strut. And here is a pic I took when doing FOR strut swap into an IMP (left to right 98 FOR, 95 Leg L, 93 IMP) From an older post AlpineRaven indicated that OB and legacy springs are the same, just that the OB strut shaft is longer, providing the lift. My question was just that if the shaft is longer, does that provide longer strut travel as well? Tribeca, yup that's a whole other beast, one I know nothing about!!

Does anyone know if the Forester coil springs are taller or have a stiffer spring rate than outback springs? I'm replacing the outback struts on my 95 legacy soon, and am thinking about a little taller or stiffer spring too. I've looked into the king/scorpion springs down under and like the idea of their raised spring, but the more i look into it the more confounds come to light. I think there are more complications when putting those springs in OB struts on my Legacy, with things getting pushed down too far for the "L" body and sub frame stuff. THEN, there's the overseas shipping cost etc. Thus, to get a little more lift than struts alone, it'll cost something like $400- $600 U$D BUT if FOR springs are a touch taller than OB, that would be fine, especially when when compared to the 2 " lift of the king/scorpion raised springs and their complications... I think, and please correct me if I'm wrong, pre-04 FOR coil springs are NOT tapered at the top, and would go right on OB struts. Thanks!

NICE!!! I'd love to ride in the new setup sometime !!! Your hatch is REALLY going to go places G! what was that trail called, firebreak, or something like that? I'm thinking, clean with style on your next run. . .

Hey jesZek, How have things turned out over these past weeks for your wife and her reliable, affordable car search? My wife is now in her 3rd trimester and looking pretty pregnant! We are very excited!! Erik and his wife are coming from Indiana to visit us all next week, so we're excited to have a visit from family, and get to show them some of the beautiful country around Moab. Congrats on Honduras making it to the 2010 world cup!!! Viva la footbol!

Does anyone know of a similar chart for automatics through the years??

I'd love to join you on mt bikes if that were an option, but I'll be up in the mountains stalking spikes this week. It'd've been cool to meet another USMBer. Have fun though!! I'll look forward to your Moab report later on.. -mw-

Yeah, still interested in more feedback. I've also heard people getting these then taking them off b/c ride is too stiff. Think old pick up on dirt road stiff and bouncy. They're progressive springs right? Does "progressive spring rating" mean they're a bit soft but get stiffer with more suspension flex (like off-road)? How do they perform on stock struts ( i know scoobyclimbs loves them) vs. new GR2s? Aren't GR2s stiffer than stock to begin with, so combining kings with new GR2s could be pretty stiff 'eh? I've got a lead on a set now and am interested but I just want to know HOW STIFF OF A RIDE they make on a daily driver, especially since I need new stuts soon anyway and I'll be getting GR2s (maybe for a 98 FOR?). I know i'll love them off road but what about everyday pavement. My wife's got new 98 forester struts (GR2s) on her IMP and the ride is super stiff. It was bouncy/stiff on the used FOR struts too. i know my car's a touch heavier (3115 lbs. to her 2750 lbs.), but only like 1-2 passengers worth, i.e. 365 lbs. By contrast a 2000 FOR is 3125 lbs. So maybe its just the 360ish pounds lighter of her car on FOR struts makes it stiffer? Anyhoo, i just want a bit more feedback from you guys in the know... Thanks again

Word. I appreciate the tips. I'd probably have been a wreck if i got through putting the engine blocks and the rear arm brackets, then couldn't line up my tranny, etc. etc. and so on. I have noticed car sits higher than outbacks (b/c of the tires too), like more clearance under the rear diff and the front exhaust. Anyway I am considering kings but it looks like i'm still not ready to just slap springs on. i'll need to get more stuff if i go that road. Maybe you know this too. What about FOR struts? I hear lately they give a bit more lift than OB struts,a nd since I need new struts ayway, what about FOR GR2s rather than OB GR2s? And reuse my OB springs?? I put FOR struts and springs on my wife's IMP, but the rear tire swung forward and was taller than front (think 60's muscle car raked look) with the complete FOR setup. So i put my stock LEG springs on the rear FOR strut and that levelled it off pretty well, then we went for 295x65? 15s (OB rims) on her IMP, and it looks stock, unless parked next to a real IMP, then you notice its taller. Thanks again! Sorry for hijacking a little there. . .

I think I might prefer corded. That way you don't have to buy $60-100 batteries every couple years, especially since I probably won't be wrenching with it every weekend.

bumpity. I left some more questions for you fellas. -word-

Gloyale, I swear you're stalking my posts today You mean you were in Mobe and didn't give me a haller? Jeez!

So is that all you need to do on these newer rigs, the OB front struts and the OB rear coil and shock/strut?

well, shewt.... There I go again, not knowing enough... I thought I was doing good and sharing good info. :-\ I've been running my legacy on OB struts and springs for 5 years and 27 - 27.5" tires for 4, no problems here either (well, save low gearing and inability to climb serious grades, but that's another story ), but now I'm thinking about raised springs. That's when people told me to get the crossmember blocks and the rear swing arm brackets. So since there's more to it than this should i just delete the post?

Does anyone make a good and strong electric impact wrench for those of us without an air compressor? Since doing struts a nd their springs a couple times, I've been thinking life would be a LOT better with an impact gun. BUT without room for or even owning an air compressor, BUT owning extension cords and having electricity at home , it seems like an electric impact gun/wrinch/drill (with 3/4 or 1/2 drive) would be a good option. Thoughts, ideas, information. . . .?

I could (try to) help pull you out! Which dunes you talking about? Shoot, you may know more about these parts than me, I've been here (moab) a little over a year and a half. Drop me a PM for when you're coming down. I'll probly be around

I know there is a lot of interest in this. I have done it and got a LOT of good info here before during and after the strut swap. I put 97 or 98 legacy Outback struts and springs on my 95 Legacy L. I gained about 1.5-2 inches clearance with that setup, put taller tires (27.5x8x14) on and gained another inch. BUT, when thinking of adding lift blocks or doing king/scorpion raised spring, I got a lot of conflicting info from folks here saying that by pushing the hubs down so far it might push my CV axles down to a steep angle, which might shorten their lives. Folks will argue this. BUT, this leads me to another tid-bit of good info I've received ere from a few different folks. When doing the strut swap, it is ALSO a good idea to bring over the engine crossmember blocks (go between the frame/unibody, and the engine crossmember. This effectivly also pushes down the engine/transmission/axles. Also, bring over the rear swing arm mounting brackets. This does a similar "pushing down" to the rear hubs as well, keeping mellow axle angles. Mellow axles are happy axles, and happy axles tend to not break. Now, I finally got these parts too (though the engine blocks are from a forester, but I'm confidant they're the same)!! BUT, I have not installed them yet. Not important for this thread! Point is, here are some pix for you all so if you (like me) get this information or whant to upgrade your OB strut swap with further OB suspension lift parts, this is what you want to look for. Engine crossmember blocks and their funny bolts (there's a platic clip that hold this block to the frame. it goes in that notch on the left side of the block on the right with itsmounting bolts in place.) Kind of a tough picture, but this is the right rearswing arm mounting bracket as site in the car. Lay down on the ground on the passenger side of the car with your feet towrd the front of your car, now shimmy left under the car then now look up to and to your right and this it your view. NOTE: how close the swing arm bolt is to the top of the bracket. Go ahead and try to squeeze your finger up in there on your car. Now note the greater distance between the swing arm bushing and where the top of the bracket is, where it mounts to the car. Plenty of room to squeeze your finger(s) up in there. (this might be the left one, but its irrelevant, technically) Happy lifting new genies!!! -mark-

Here are pix for parts I had to look for. Possibly similar for you (particularly the engine crossmember block) but I assume the rear might be a touch different. good luck,and please keep us posted on lifting this model year on outback stuff!