YnotDIY

I just (today) swapped the phillips screws out with 8mm machined hex head bolt/screw. even easier to get off now sorry I know it's not applicable to your question, but had to share.

this is great, but I wonder about the quality of the resin they are using. will it yellow when exposed to UV rays? still a cool idea for parts that will be harder and harder to find.

nice! good idea actually I'll go that route.

I posted up about a similar idle issue a couple months ago. I pulled the IAC and cleaned it, fixed the issue for a couple of months it's now back to idling at 2,000 off the clutch and very very I mean VERY slowly goes down to between 500-1000. Just ordered a new IAC off ebay used to swap in. gonna clean and lube it up before it goes on. They definitely get sticky. which for me is revealed by my slow reduction in idle rpms. I imagine that little spring is just moving like molasses in there. could you post a picture of the tool you use to remove the IAC? I took off the throttle body last time and it would be awesome to not have to do that again.

thanks for the info ya'll this helps me a ton.

AMAZING THANK YOU!

didn't get that link posted....

Alright here we go again, sorry for all the parts questions recently. Just wanna make sure I'm getting the right stuff and I know you guys know your spoob obviously. So here we go. looking at water pump for the EA82 online and I'm finding two different hub heights. one being.... 4.087" the other 4.320" not sure which to get. I'm thinking the difference in hub heights is either with or w/o AC. I don't have AC so I'm thinking the shorter one, but honestly just a guess and don't wanna get the wrong one. lemme know if ya'll have knowledge on this. ALSO, I'm totally unfamiliar with auto manufactures as they relate to quality. RockAuto has a few to select from.... ACDELCO GATES AIRTEX CARDONE AISIN Delco being most expensive and Gates being least. Anyone have brand preference?

The first rad i posted is a CFS one. I think it's that same 933 your talking about beech. Doesn't look like the dual row exist anymore new unfortunately or not in the US? good tip on having to grind down the rad a little for the thermo switch. thanks for passing that along. looks like CFS it is.

on another note I CANNOT locate the crankshaft seal on parts.subaru. camshaft front seal and back orings no problem, but where the hell on here is the crank seal? it's not even in the schematic for the crank case.

good news about not having to drain the oil. as far as T belts go is everyone still using Gates set ups or is there a better alternative now? I saw some mitsubishi belts but they don't come in a kit.

Was also looking at this spectra, lists it will fit an 87 GL on partsgeek, but the set up is different. anyone ever run one of these before or would advise against? I like the placement of the cap area.

Ferp I actually just put everything back on for the time being. Gonna go the snork route eventually, but the ram was giving me a really high idle....not sure why. Worried if I take off the snork from the stock setup it will do the same thing....are you running one on your wagon?

Ahhh got ya so they flow separately from the coolant interesting and good news. This radiator looks nice too (all metal) what rads are you guys using or do you usually run?

Looking into a new radiator, mine seems to be leaking at the spot where the cap tube meets the radiator as well as a main hose. I'm looking at the one pictured, but realizing mine doesn't have those outlets I labeled in the photo. rather there are just two metal screw plugs. possible to get a radiator that doesn't have these or is this what we are working with now? Also, what are those for? where would they go? Thinking I can just cap them off, but seeing as that just adds more spots for a leak to happen I'd rather get one without those. Maybe I can unscrew them and put my metal screw plugs there? any info would be appreciated.

very nice. I wanna go the same route with the snork. gonna see if I can mod the intake to accept the cone today hopefully. I'll post if and when I get there.

Dang that's an EJ ya? wtf if up with that blk box? did you weld that? definitely eventually wanna go the snorkel route. Did you pick up the mitsubishi one that has been posted on here? love that 6 lug swap. would be into modding the intake to accept the cone filter actually. I can probably use the MAF adaptor I made and stick it inside the air box somehow. Actually I'm gonna try that tomorrow. might as well try to use it since I bought it.

Alright so here we are a couple weeks later....I swapped back to the original intake system snorkel and all. Carfreak was correct. acceleration increase was due to the louder induction noise. car is accelerating exactly the same as it was with the RAM on as far as I can tell It's also actually idling between 1,000 and 500 RPMs quicker than it was with the RAM on which could be due to the engine heating up quicker and getting off the cold idle, but I'm not totally sure..just happy it's idling as it should. Also I never really secured the RAM as i should have and it was kinda shakey under the hood which was stressing me out. All and all the RAM was a fun experiment and I'm glad I did it, but I'll be sticking with the factory set-up from here on out. that is until I add a safari snorkel on it ..... so if anyone wants a MAF adaptor for their set up let me know! haha

Which fans did you use for this? I was searching Loyale 2.7's post on this and I can't seem to find the fans he is using anymore. Yours also appear to be different than the ones he used. seeing as this was only 2 yrs ago I'm hoping they are still making them. thanks in advance. https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Radiator-Cooling-Mount-Unversal/dp/B014KK7Q84/ref=pd_lpo_263_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H54V8MEH4A1QQG5TTW20 They look like the ones on the link, but are yours 2.5" thick?

fingers crossed. I'll post in here when I actually get to it. glad to know it's not gonna kill the engine if I neglect it for a bit. the whole "tick of death" acronym had me freaked out. why would someone play this cruel joke? haha

Thanks for the link! lots of great info on there. Next question is if I'm doing the cam carrier rings / seals and crank seal is it necessary to drain out all the engine oil? I'm sure this is a novice question, but I have yet to get repair manuals for this EA82. Won't mind if i have to do it, just wondering if it's necessary.

If I can source the parts I'll let ya'll know. definitely wont be until the summer for sure. Also, did the engine cleaning with fuel / oil mix...ran it for 15min TWICE. first drain was really gnarly black next was mostly clear. Put 10w 40 in it and from a cold start it's still ticking so it looks like it's time to re-seal that pump. only problem is I wont be able to get to it until May rolls around. Think 2 months of ticking will kill the lifters?

wish i was confident enough to pull the engine myself. would definitely need someone here to hand hold me all the way through it. so it you ever feel like coming to Michigan for a weekend hit me up! wish i could get that legacy over here.

Pretty sure I found the leak. I'll post up in another thread about that.

Agree with this on the swap. Seems like they work much better and swapping the pulleys is pretty easy. There is a lot of info on here about how to do it. Just don't grab one from auto zone unless you really have to. I got mine from there and the first two I bolted on were crap out of the box. Lucky for me third times the charm and this one has been going strong for a while. Good luck and let us know what happens.