YnotDIY

I did set the distributor with a timing light. Dialed it right in. Work done so far to resolve my acceleration issue. new fuel pump / dialed in timing / dropped the Y pipe / re-wired IAC (wires were going to spoob) no change yet. Still very bogged down going up hills. Just will not accelerate. generally have to own shift to make it. Showing codes for ERG as well as Faulty Fuel Injector. Thinking maybe it could be an electrical issue with throttle body and TB fuel injector....? I'd like to try a MAF, but I don't have one....if ANYONE can held me with that that would be heckin' rad. Would also like to try new EGR valve and PCV valve. Thoughts anyone?

I know a guy who has two, but he's in Michigan. could probably ship to you, but it won't be cheep. Do you have the rails? I'd probably snag some newer forester seats from the yard and adapt the rails to fit. I can pass along your request to my bud if needed. Let me know. Good Luck.

Congrats on the trip! pics looks great! how about that volvo sludge! Gnarly. Update us when you have those videos ready! uploaded to youtube?

Ordered my pump as well. Should be testing it out soon. excited to hear if this fixes your issue.

Drake, Pretty sure there are 3 Foresters at the yard, by me, with the part you need. I'd gladly go pull one and send it your way if you'd like. Let me know.

still following this. working through similar issues on my 88. Suspecting bad Fuel Pump. Let us know if you find anything else @DaveT

Thanks for the reply @montana tom. I ended up finding a used one at the scrap yard and throwing it on. Looks like this question gets left un-answered for now. Probably better not to delete it right now since we are selling the car. The next owner might not like my random deletes as much as I do. haha If anyone has done this let us know! Very interested in the results.

Alright, I've seen a few disparate threads on this and I'm wondering what others have done or dare to do..... 2000 Subaru Forester. Horrible Fuel Filler Neck (as usual) Shut Off Valve is rusted to a pile of dust and I can't get one until Monday....also it's $45... Let's brainstorm....Is it possible to go without and plug the hole on the filer neck? I've heard of people putting a U shaped piece of hose over the two lines that would go to the Shut Off Valve to block those off, but no reports on what happened.... Has anyone ever done something like this or would you dare to? Shut Off Valve just allows the tank to build pressure in order to not over fill tank right? So we just need to build some pressure in the tank? I'm heading to the scrap yard to search for one right now, but I'll check back soon. Just tell me I can delete the damn thing ya'll. gimme good news.

dropped the Y pipe and no change in performance. No acceleration going up hill. On flat it's okay, but still very little acceleration. The loss of power happened initially while I was driving on the highway. All the sudden it didn't want to accelerate or climb hills. I have changed the timing belts and checked for a blocked Cat. Still the same issues. Fuel pump seems to be working. voltage to pump checks out normal. Haven't done a pressure test yet. New cap and rotor are coming today. I'll report back if I solve my power issues. I know this thread isn't about my power issues, so I'll make a new one with questions that pop up. Any help would be appreciated. Sounds like you might be having similar issues Dave. I did notice today while driving that it sounds like it's stumbling a bit. Maybe I'm just still off a tooth or something. I'll pull the belts and re-set them tomorrow if new cap and rotor don't solve my issue.

Awesome looks like I've done everything right then. I thought I was off a tooth, which was causing my acceleration problems. gonna have to look else ware now. I suspect the cat... :/ Thanks for chiming in Dave. Much appreciated.

Thanks Dave. You're always killing it with the advise on here. Is it essential begin at cylinder 1? is it incorrect to finish and have the dissy point to cylinder 4?

Sorry was trying for a quick explanation. I installed the first belt with cam dot facing up and crank set to the middle hash mark of the three you mentioned. Rotated the crank one revolution. Cam dot not facing down. Installed the other belt (pass side) cam dot facing up on this crank. Rotated crank again to 0 degrees as suggested by miles fox. A little less than 1 full revolution. After this when I looked at the dissy it was pointing to the number 4 cylinder...not the first, but I think it should have been pointing to the first. Question is what would cause it to point to number 4 instead of number 1?

Hey y’all. Couldn’t find info on this. I’m sure y’all will be able to help. Just did my timing belts. After installation I rotated the crank to 0 degrees. Was following Miles Fox’s YouTube installation. When I looked at the dizzy it was pointing to the 4th cylinder....not the first.... Any idea what I did wrong here? Car still starts and goes, but has almost no acceleration.... Any help would be appreciated Thanks

yo same issues over here. did this ever get solved?

very cool.

he says the rims are 14"

These are the ones I'm looking at currently 1981 turbo 505 https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/d/peugeot-505s-turbo-diesel-5/6512603516.html

Hey Hey bringing this back up since I found another set of peugeot wheels. It looks like (from what I've gathered from research) 505 wheels have a smaller center bore (63mm) to subaru's (103mm), but they will still fit? do the hubs just not clear into the center bore of the peugeot wheels? I know many have done this and I'm not to worried, just looking for more clarification on the fit. Thanks ya'll

Just to update this thread I swapped to the new coolant temp sensor (the two wire one by the thermostat) and it fixed my issues greatly. There is still a little issue with the idle, but it is no where near as bad as it was so most of my problems were with the CTS. I'll update again as I swap EGR Solenoid and other idle related parts down the road. Thanks everyone for the help.

Naru, I'm going to check for a toyota solenoid at the yard here this week. If one doesn't turn up can you send one to Michigan? $$$?

Good to know thanks for the heads up.

Alright update on my idle issue....so Ive noticed after a short drive, say 10min. to the store, when I come back to start the car it usually fires then stalls out. To get it to fire I have to HOLD DOWN the gas pedal until it starts then I can let off. When I have to start it this way HOLDING DOWN THE PEDAL the idle gets all wild. it will idle at around 2,000 and even a little blip on the gas will send the idle to 3,000 for a while until it comes to rest at 2,000. NOW CHECK THIS While it's RUNNING I unplug the IAC connection and it goes to idle at around 500. Next, I turn off the car. With the IAC still unplugged I try to start it (nothing of course). THEN plug the IAC back in, go to start again and it's idling normally around 500 or so. What's up with this? This method for "re-setting" the idle has worked nearly every time. Am I letting the computer re-calibrate something with this method of trying to start with IAC un-plugged? I have a new Coolant Temp Sensor on the way (only $89), but I was thinking maybe it's a distributor issue or something? If this sparks anyones mind please let me know. I'll update as I find out what's up with this.

DaveT is this the one you snagged from the dealer? I want the SPI one I believe. Is that for Single Point Injection? Thanks for all the help ya'll. The plan is to swap that CTS and fingers crossed that fixes the issue. I have found no vacuum leaks and for now the solenoid seems to be working although I'm planning to swap that out as well when I have the time. If anyone can confirm this is the part I need that would be awesome. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_1988_DLGLGL10RSRX-WAGON-TURBO/SENSOR-ASSEMBLY-TEMPERATURE/49232416/22630AA030.html

More news, car is flashing error code 34 EGR solenoid. DaveT I saw on your website an EGR swap to a toyota one. Any idea what yr that might have been? Would it be possible my symptoms could be caused by the solenoid? Also, guy at the shop told me the IAC is reading 11+ volts when it should be around 10V. actually he said it should read 1V with key in on position for 1min. then switch to 10V like normal. He said it always reads over 10V and never reads at 1V. Thinks it could be ECU related...insights anyone?