lmdew

On the hunt for another good motor (95 - 97 2.2 with EGR) UPAP price. If you see on in the yards in DEN or Colorado Springs please let me know. If you want to pull it, I'll pay you for your time. Thanks Larry

Free on in Colorado Springs, CO dented at the bottom but the glass is good. Come on out and pick it up.

I have a 98 that at one time had the Subaru Security system in it. It was removed at some time. All of the doors except the drivers door lock and unlock with the push button on the door panel. I checked under the dash and behind the kick panel, the blue wire going to the drivers door lock has an open, but I can not see where it goes as it's inside a pretty good wire bundle. Anyone have the FSM Wiring they could send? The door lock will lock if I provide a ground on the blue wire as the green wire has 12vdc. Thanks, Larry

When I pull them out at the yard, I'll pull the car side of the harness connectors as well so you can see where they plug in on the new car. Works well. Wish I had one now, as the car I'm working on had a system but someone pulled it and now the Drivers door does not lock and unlock with the door lock/unlock button. Power down to the plug in the forward kick panel but no ground. The ground must have been cut when the security system was put in. I have to hunt one down.

It can take up to 150 miles and numerous drive cycles to set the CEL. At least that's been my experience.

Have plenty, I could send one 15 shipped.

Anyone in or near Valparaiso IN? Could use a few minutes with your OBDII reader and a few tools. Thanks Larry

If you rush into something most likely it will cost you more. Anything that needs that amount of work is not a good bet for a long trip before the needed maintenance is done. Fly there and Drive Back? FL is not a Subaru place.

Sounds like a rebuild or grab a used trans. Try www.car-part.com

Trans and Rear Diff swap went well and is running great. The speeding protection system is working well, about 10 mph under the actual speed at highway speeds. Corrections through tires possible as far as I can tell.

I flush the transmissions this way all the time. I use a gallon milk jug and do it about 3/4 of a gallon at a time. 4 gallons of fluid is about right for a Subaru Trans. If you have internal damage this will not fix a thing, but it won't hurt the trans either.

Found a 96 2.2 with 150K on it in the Den UPAP and thanks to Shawn I was able to install it and get it running. Runs great, typical HYD Lifter tick untill they pump back up. Thanks for the Y-Pipe Shawn.

Anyone seen any good 95 or 96 2.2 with EGR in the yards this last week? Anyone need a good core engine, DOHC 2.5 with a rod knock. Running 141K. Shoot me and email. Lmdew2@gmail.com Thanks, Larry

You can try spraying WD-40 on the lines while the engine is running. If there is a leak, it will pull the fluid in and the idle will change. Does it happen at a specific time or condition? If it just came out of the shop, I'd head back there and have them correct the problem.

Hauled a 17' glue lam beam 12" x 5.5" over 100 miles on the freeway on the Legacy Outback. Road as nice as could be. Have had 15 sheets of 1/2 OBS on top in town. 2 washer dryer sets, one machine on top, 3 inside. As long as you have it strapped down well and don't drive crazy you're OK. Of course plenty of stopping distance between you and the next car is wise.

Yes, they are on the top. Letters are an 1' or so high. They are under the support so you'd have to drop the diff.

There is a painted code on the top of the rear diff. Anyone have the chart for the rear diff codes? Thanks, Larry Found this out there on the web: This information is from the 2008 Factory Service Manual and im not sure if it applies to any other model years. The two letter code is supposed to be on the rear differential in white paint. Rear Differential Code---Reduction gear ratio---LSD CD --- 4.444 --- Viscous CF --- 4.444 --- Viscous EW --- 3.900 --- Viscous HY --- 3.545 --- Torsen JE --- 4.111 --- Viscous T1 --- 3.900 --- None T2 --- 4.111 --- None TP --- 4.444 --- None XJ --- 4.111 --- None XU --- 3.272 --- Viscous XZ --- 3.083 --- Viscous Can anyone confirm the years the codes would apply to?

Auto

Rear Diff it is. Thanks for the suggestions.

Trans has no fluid it it so, I thought it was better to change it out. No telling how long it was run with no fluid or how much metal got into the trans.

I've got a 96 Legacy that the drive shaft went out on. It tore up the trans tail shaft pretty good. I have a good used trans but it's out of an Outback instead of the standard Legacy so the ratios are different (still have to check the #'s). I've changed lots of rear diffs, but never the front. How's the front to change? Procedure to change the front? Both Transmissions are out and on the ground.

You said the rear tires are on ramps, with the wheels both in contact with the ground/ramps you can NOT sping the drive shaft. Have to get one wheel off the ground/ramp and make sure the E Brake is off. Larry

You can list on Ebay and you will get a free one.

You front or rear U Joint? Front Auto you most likely have damage to the shifter and maybe the tail shaft housing. I got a 98 where just the shifter was bent. I got a 96 where it tore out the complete tail shaft housing and dumped all the fluid. First one got a shifter, trans mount and drive shaft. Second one needs all of the above and a new trans. Jack stands are pretty cheap, don't take the chance.

I have a 3' snapon 3/4 breaker bar with a 6 point socket. If the car is off the ground slide a large screw driver into the brake rotor cooling fins between the brake caliper. That locks the axle from turning. I get funny looks walking into the junk yard with it, but I always get them off.