lmdew

Check www.brighterideas.com If you checked the voltage with no load your meter could lie to you!

I hit the yard and pull the newer plastic style of boot. It works great. Jack the car Center punch the outter Tie rod nut and tie rod for alignment. Unscrew the outter tie rod - you don't have to take it off just sping the shaft. Take a coat hanger or welding rod and put it up against the nut, which you just backed off a 1/4 turn and then bend the other end over the shaft. Now you know were to put the nut after the boot replacement. Pull the boot clamps, remove the old boot and clean things up as good as you can. Put new grease in the inner tie rod pivot Install the new boot Put the nut back on in the same position Screw the outter tie rod back on and then tighten the nut so the punch marks line back up. Install the outter boot clamp. That's it. Sometimes I drop the exhaust for better access to the inner boot area.

14.4 volts is good. Sounds like you covered the electrical items, but since its random and intermittent I'd still be looking for electrical problems. This did not happen before the engine work correct? Sure all of the vaccum lines are good?

What is the output voltage of the alt? I'd double check the Alternator connections and make sure all of the grounds have been hooked up. Larry

I finally had time to do the search, had to change the date range to all: Here's the thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87100&highlight=neutral

Stay with cloth in TUS. The foam is what breaks down. If the covers are good, you can replace just the foam. Passenger and Drivers side foam can be switched so get a used passenger side and you are all set!

Yes, it will work. Or you could pull the part off your old trans and put it on the new one. No Linkage needed.

See my previous post. I gave you the link to the other thread that has your fix for the N Sw.

Yes, all I have to do is look under the hood and the 98 Outback with a 95 2.2 swap looks better than ever! So easy to work on and a great value.

Normal stuff to check first: - Tires Matched - Tire Pressure If all is good, the viscous unit in the trans is the most likely problem

You Tube on the Rebuild process would be great!

I thought the same thing when I got mine, but they have been great.

I swapped over to the 2002 intake and all the parts on it. The Short Term and Long Term look much better S 2.5, L -10.4 We'll see what the mileage does and check the plugs once the ECU has adjusted.

I have everything you need. Shoot me an email if you want a complete rear brake set. Lmdew2@gmail.com

I usually end up using a pliers to push down on the locking release tabs.

Great Radiator. All metal, no plastic tanks. Direct bolt in, super quality and a great price. Highly recommended: http://stores.ebay.com/kospeed2008?_trksid=p4340.l2563

Get a used hub with a good bearing. What side do you need? Make sure you get the PB Blaster out and start letting it soak. The long bottom bolt can be bad if it rusted to the arm bushings.

The engine came from a 2003 Forester and I dropped it into a 2002 Impreza TS. I switched the cams when I did the timing belt. It runs great but seems to be very rich. The O2 Sensor was changed but the voltage is still what I'd consider high at 1.6 volts. It will drop and do the normal up down when I let off the gas. When it's steady throttle it almost flat lines at 1.6 volts. Short Term Trim: -8.6 Long Term Trim: -25.0 Coolant Temp 189. I did have a PO172 Rich Bank one 2 times but it has cleared and has not come back. I ran some injector cleaner, thinking an injector might be leaking. I have not checked the mileage yet, but it seems to be going through gas pretty fast.

Auto Trans, I take it? Pretty common on the auto's. Does it go away if you shift into park or Neutral? Some have reduced the problem by replacing the half shafts with MWE or factory axles as some of the remans are not the best. Your Subaru just wants to go!

Fixed an O2 Impreza TS Clock today. Thanks for the great info and pictures.

Yes, they will bolt right in.

I always put it to the front and have never had a problem. Make sure you jack the car as high as possible in the front and fill slowly into the top radiator hose back into the block. Then finish filling the radiator and start the engine. As it warms up, keep on squeezing the top hose to burp the air out of the radiator filler neck. When air stops coming out, you are good. PS Heater on full hot.

have you checked to make sure the 12.8 Volts is getting all the way back to the ECU? Check out http://www.brighterideas.com Search You tube for LoadPro or TesLite.

go over to the NASIOC and buy some take offs. I've gotten low mileage complete struts shipped for $200 or so. Bolt them up and you are good to go.

The boot should have holes in the rim flange, they go over the plastic pins on the bottom of the trim panel. Lot's of times the pins break off. Hot Glue the boot on to the trim panel sides and back and then put the assy back on. The front needs to be pulled back a little to install the 2 screws.