uniberp

I don't think there's a snap ring anywhere on the outboard. There's a circlip on the inboard. Standard method for removing axles: Remove the center hub nut. 31-32mm socket Ithink. See the 2 big bolts holding the strut to the hub? Mark exactly where the top one is in relation to the strut. Pin punch mark it. 19mm socket and end wrench, undo the bolts and remove. Tip the hub out. Or. Remove the lower balljoint nut. Using an appropriate remover, push the taper stud up and out. Tip the hub outward.

"I would bypass using a key and physically turn the ignition switch with a screw driver. I had one the other day at work that for some odd reason, it would NOT start using the key but when I'd unscrew the ignition switch from the column, it would start. " ^This. I have had keys lock in the ignition. Also I've seen the neutral safety switch intermittantly fail. Seems worth a look.

We've got a few thousand miles on it now, and still seems fine. It surprises me everytime I start it by how quiet it is and not being rattly. Sounds like a normal car, almost. I also replaced the cat and head pipe with Walker replacements, which fit perfect and may quiet it even more. Yes that price is good in my opinion. Plus timing and waterpump, I think but he will do that. Manifold gaskets, exhaust donut, bolts/spring set

Did you check your crank pulley? If that is wobbling idle will be really hard.

It prolly got towed wheels down. Death for a 4eat.

Clockspring? Horn work? I've seen partial failure. Not a cheap part.

No, Subaru engines CANNOT be removed without a hoist/lift, unless you are kinda crazy. They can, however be dragged around in an old tire, however, if you really need to get it in out of the rain.

Normally I would say "do the minimum to keep the car running reliably", but I have been burned by the "new heads on an old bottom end" fix. Yes the cylinders stay good, but I am not so sure the rings keep their spring. I do not know ring wear rate, but they do start at about 5 mm wide, and a from what I know of engineering mechanics, reducing that to 4 mm will reduce the pressure of the ring to the cylinder wall substantially. Math is one thing, molecular interface, material fatigue, and simple cracks another. Testing cold static compression is a standard test, but I a waiting for a spark plug replacement test device (that I can afford) that measures hot combustion compression. Blah blah, in short, new heads on an old shortblock often burn oil. Higher compression may also cause increased pressure on bottom end bearings I for one do not think Subaru bottom ends are "bullet proof". They are aluminum. My experince says they are noisy and loose after 75k miles (nless babied, which I mostly do), and that owners just get used to the noise. I would replace the whole thing with a rebuilt long block. I stand by my recommendation for this builder:. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Forester-2-5-Rebuilt-Engine-With-Warranty-/321066261898?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac10a5d8a

Every three months the brake light on the 99 Forester comes on. Topping up the brake fluid turns it off. No leaks/ dampness underneath anywhere, no spots on the ground, brakes work fine, brake linings fine. Fluid was flushed last brake job 2 years ago. Ever encounter this type of thing?

pull that airbox and washer reservoir and save yourself a bunch of aggravation

If you have checked everything above and sprayed (wd40) for vacuum leaks, it might be your timing belt is off a notch.

After my experience with 2.5's and 2.2's I've come to the conclusion the Subaru 2.5 bottom end is not strong enough for the abuse and neglect typically levelled at it by the average owner, and that engines that need top-end rebuilds just as likely need new bottom ends as well. I've never had a headgasket fail, but I have had 3 bottom ends on used engines pound themselves into bits or nearly so.

Short drives, stop and go, cold engine, cold air, cold grease, winter gas, I am not really surprised at 12 mpg. If it were stinking gas, stumbling or rough, or slipping I would look to fixing those.

I want one of these. I have heads ready to drop on. Anyone know where or how to get one at this price?

This is not a flame board. You are incorrect and insulting. I have been dealth with several amateur self-styled experts and I was not "had" in this case, especially since you know nothing of the details of this transaction, which will now remain unknown to you. I suggest you provide current details of your source assertion before you attempt to damage someone's business reputation.

I have good reason to say that is not what he is doing. Do you have the Subaru part number for the shortblock? Is there an online listing anywhere at that price? I have another one coming up and a pair of good heads to slap on.

Does the same thing break/wear out on all of them?

I recommend this engine builder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Subaru-EJ25-Complete-Engine-1999-2009-Legacy-Outback-Impreza-Forester-/321029974555?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999|Make%3ASubaru&hash=item4abee0aa1b&vxp=mtr even though the price went up a bit. Apparent optimum build quality bottom to top. I installed one 3 weeks ago. Solid, quiet, strong. Equivalent+ to new, IMO. We've had several personal conversations, I will pm any inquiries. I do not represent his company. He's located in Traverse City, MI.

Lift with struts or subframe blocks?

The (~15+- count) sparkplug and coverbolt grommets are more important. Flat is flat.

I am really happy with the Yokohama Avid Acsent tires (1000 miles). Very good in wet. Pretty smooth on highway. IDK what speed rating is, seems like higher spped rating tires would be stronger, less "rubbery". These are made with oil derived form ORANGES, supposedly give a more temperature stable compound than pure petroleum rubber.

These tests are pretty convincing to me...

It's the tires, or the balance, IMO.

defroster mode kicks on the AC compressor. AC-compressor-on raises the idle.

Since I'm putting in a new engine in a couple weeks, and the headpipes rattle like nuts anytime I unbolt/rebolt them, I decided to replace it and the cat as well, since the flanges are just about gone anyhow. There'sa coupon for $40 rebate on a Walker cat from a bunch of sites. Expires Wednesday. I ordered from Rockauto.