unibrook

I prefer the Fumoto valve. I have used it on my 2001 Forester for the last 8 years.

What was the mileage on her when belt broke? My 2001 Forester has 143k on her original belt and pulleys......and waterpump!

We test drove a 2015 Premium today, CVT. It had more power/acceleration than our 2001 Forester 5MT with its 2.5 liter engine. I thought the CVT felt fine, no big diff in feel from it to any other new AT out there on competitive cars.

Wicat3, I would expect to have to roofrack any big HomeStore purchases. That'll work out fine for you. I have had a 2001 Forester for 10 years and the roofrack gets plenty o use.

Oh crikey, tell wifey to fold down one of the rear seats, get a reasonable-sized foldable stroller to then fit in the back, strap the kid into his baby carrier into the other rear seat, she rides in front ....and....wait for it..........YOU ALL SURVIVE! Amazing, but true.

2001 Forester 5MT with 143k on her. The slave was replaced 4 yrs ago, the master replaced 6 months ago, and the clutch plates and flywheel replaced 4 months ago. The clutch pedal does not act soft or spongey at all now, the way it did when the master or slave was going bad. Any thoughts?

Does the bogging seem to happen most or always when engine warm as opposed to no problem when engine cold? If so, your front 02 sensor prob needs replacing.

2001 Forester 5MT 138k miles. Slave was replaced 3.5 yrs ago with 105k miles on her. Otherwise, system original. Do not assume that just because the fluid level LOOKS full from outside the reservoir on the Master, that it really is full. That might just be a darkened bathtub ring film coating the inside of the reservoir near the Full line, fooling you into thinking there is fluid inside. Instead, BE SURE to open the reservoir cap and look inside to check the fluid level. If low, pour in more DOT3 fluid and bleed the system until you get some clutch pedal pressure and functionality. If it seems to continue to suck down fluid and the pedal return does not seem strong, then you must have a leak. Remove the big plastic airfilter box to gain a better view of the entire clutch hydraulic system (which is up top and very visible and accessible). Wipe down all components and clutch lines with a clean rag. Then have your partner continue to pump the clutch pedal, while you top up the reservoir with fluid, and bleed via the nipple on the Slave (sounds kinky, I know). As your partner presses down on the clutch, she is putting pressure into the system, this is when any leaking fluid must be spraying out somewhere…either from a component or the metal line or rubber hose. Look for the wet spot! Mine was a pinhole leak in the black rubber Clutch Hose that connects the Slave banjo bolt to the bracket connecting to the metal tube that connects to the Master. My leak was 3 inches back from the banjo bolt. The Clutch Hose can be ordered from Advance Auto Parts for $16.00 on their World Pack system. It is very important that you talk to an experienced clerk there who is familiar with World Pack...or else you will just be quickly told, "yeah, um, no we don't have it. You prolly have to go to da dealer for dat part."

WAIT.....when you say you replaced the tranny fluid, was that the front or the rear diff? The reason I ask is that 3 years ago, on my 2001 Forester 5MT with about 105k miles on her at that time, I experienced the torque bind when engine warm issue too. I went ahead and replaced BOTH front and rear diff fluid and the problem has been gone ever since. The FRONT (or Center as some say) diff fluid change seems to have been the key to fixing my bind. And yes, all the advice that came pouring in was the same that you are getting. And yes, everyone jumped on me telling me that changing my fluid COULD NOT POSSIBLY FIX the problem bcuz my car is a manny tranny. But, the new fluid in the front diff did indeed cure MY torque bind. Your issue could be different, but the cheap easy fix should be explored first.

My 2001 Forester slave seals went bad 3 yrs ago at about 110k miles. The symptom was mushy pedal pressure when the engine was HOT in the summer. So, I figured that because of where the slave is located on top of the engine, and the symptom was heat related, that would be the most likely culprit. And it was. Now the pedal works for about 3 strokes, before sinking all the way to the floor, and it doesn't matter if the car is cold or warm. So, this time, I am suspecting the master cylinder as culprit. There was no loss of fluid and no visible leak last time or this time. Stay tuned! UPDATE: 136k miles on her now. Turns out this time, that I have a pinhole leak in my black rubber clutch hose--connects the Slave banjo bolt to the bracket connecting to the metal line that runs to the Master cylinder. Here are some notes of advice for trouble shooting I came up with: Do not assume that just because the fluid level LOOKS full from outside the reservoir on the Master, that it really is full. That might just be a darkened bathtub ring film coating the inside of the reservoir near the Full line, fooling you into thinking there is fluid inside. Instead, BE SURE to open the reservoir cap and look inside to check the fluid level. If low, pour in more DOT3 fluid and bleed the system until you get some clutch pedal pressure and functionality. If it seems to continue to suck down fluid and the pedal return does not seem strong, then you must have a leak. Remove the big plastic airfilter box to gain a better view of the whole clutch hydraulic system. Wipe down all components and clutch lines with a clean rag. Then have your partner continue to pump the clutch pedal, while you top up the reservoir with fluid. As your partner presses down on the clutch, she is putting pressure into the system, this is when any leaking fluid must be spraying out somewhere…either from a component or the metal line or rubber hose. Look for the wet spot!

Before you buy a single used tire and assume it will fit your car just because the size stamped on the tire is correct....be sure to actually measure it yourself by your own hand. They can vary a lot by manufacturer, if the measurement is too far off, torque bind will visit.

If you get misfire only when warm, then you might want to suspect your front 02 sensor.

I don't know if you can view this link, but this guy collects actual owner reported repair data for his comparisons: http://www.truedelta.com/Subaru-Forester/reliability-251/vs-Outback-253

On my 2001 Forester, when the front 02 sensor went, it would run fine when cold, but once it was warmed up I would get the bucking and hesitation. Seems to need a new front 02 sensor every 40k miles or so.

I happened again today. We checked for spark....yes spark is there. Is there a fuel pump relay, if so where is it located? Problem seems to be worse under load...when car is warm.

Our 1982 GL wagon 163k on her....starts with a paper clip. Or any key you might like to insert into her. She will take any tool to get her revving. She loves it.

How many miles on her? Replace the front oxygen sensor if the misfire only happens when engine is warm.

Thx for ideas. will chk those today and report back here.

Car will run fine for part of the day. Then sometimes, later in day, the engine will buck and sputter in a fit of lack of power. Won't idle correctly anymore, stalls out. Won't restart. Then it sits overnight, and starts right up the next day. Any ideas? thx.

In the end, I sent the car to the shop. He used my new parts which totaled me about $200. His labor was $165 on top of that. All fixed now. 2001 Forester with 128k on her. All rust belt miles.

Does it only give these symptoms when the engine is warm? Not when cold? If so, when was last time front O2 sensor was changed out? If more than 40k miles have passed, try replacing that.

Very good point. The first replacement filler pipe I bot off Ebay was made by Dorman....and was not the correct part.....even though the description said it would fit. So, before you order the new one, crawl under the car, do a visual survey, take pic, then be sure it matches when you go on line to order the new one. I hate when frikkin aftermkt parts have erroneous descriptions......and it happens A LOT !!

Fuel Filler Neck – CEL: P0442 Bot new neck pipe on Ebay. Hoses, screws, hose clamps...you will get at AutoZone. The new check valve you get at Subaru dealer. Some of the mounting bolts might be frozen, but tap them with hammer and wood and spray with WD40 for 15 minutes before cranking them off might help. The hardest part for me was trying to separate the hoses from the corroded steel pipes and lines. All seemed impossible. I suppose you could saw apart the old rusted filler neck and get some swing room that way to twist it out of the rubber hose connecting to the gas tank.

Fuel Filler Neck – CEL: P0442 2001 Forester with 128k rust belt miles on her. Bot new neck pipe on Ebay. Hoses, screws, hose clamps...you will get at AutoZone. The new check valve you get at Subaru dealer. Some of the mounting bolts might be frozen, but tap them with hammer and wood and spray with WD40 for 15 minutes before cranking them off might help. The hardest part for me was trying to separate the hoses from the corroded steel pipes and lines. All seemed impossible. I suppose you could saw apart the old rusted filler neck and get some swing room that way to twist it out of the rubber hose connecting to the gas tank.

Fuel Filler Neck – CEL: P0442 Bot new neck pipe on Ebay. Hoses, screws, hose clamps...you will get at AutoZone. The new check valve you get at Subaru dealer. Some of the mounting bolts might be frozen, but tap them with hammer and wood and spray with WD40 for 15 minutes before cranking them off might help. The hardest part for me was trying to separate the hoses from the corroded steel pipes and lines. All seemed impossible. I suppose you could saw apart the old rusted filler neck and get some swing room that way to twist it out of the rubber hose connecting to the gas tank.