Svengouli7

Hi rollerball. Happy Easter. I am out by red mt., if you need a hand grinding off that rivet let me know. You could probably do it with a cut off wheel on a drill or dremel. Both would be good investments.

Thanks guys. I am not flooded with options out my way. This fellow and his shop have done 2 other motors for me so far and everything has seemed to go good. He is either trying to be thorough which I can appreciate.. or maybe he mixed up my pins which I had bagged and numbered. Stuff should be done today or tomorrow.. we'll see!

Those are the ones, yes. Kije I said I think this guy is used to the press in type wrist pin, done with a heated up connecting rod and press. Thanks Josh.

Hi guys. Currently rebuilding an ej22.. machine shop suggested new bushings for the little ends just as a precaution, not due to measured wear. I've never had an issue with pin bushings on all the EA and EJ stuff I've done to date. I think this fellow is used to pressed-in pins with a friction fit. Seems like a wasted effort to me but I thought I would see what the collective experience here was with this part of the deal.

Easiest I found was to push the pin out from the opposite side. If you have #1lined up in front of the access hole look through the hole on the opposite side. You should be able to get a oc of 1/4" rod stock or something similiar through at a slight angle. I've been using a ginormous (18"?) flatblade screwdriver from a garage sale. I found it a heckuva lot easier. Others have done the same on here. A little squirt of lube seem to help too on the outside face where the pin meets the piston.

I've always just used a cold chisel on it's o.d. where it shouders into the hub. I've had to heat them with propane too.

heh.. I knew this would be trouble when I saw the thread open. The same kind of debate has been kicked around on other boards and beat to death. I have used a 3/8" HF click type. I found on mine the click is pretty subtle, and seems sensitive to how it is gripped. Not a good choice for someone that doesn't have a feel for just how far you want to push aluminum threads.. The one I own does seem to agree with my Husky 1/2". I confess that I've never taken them in for calibration, so that may be nothing to go by. I've seen some suggest just getting one from a tool rental place. If I were to do that I would be asking the counterman if it had ever been calibrated. I worked at a place that had one on the shelf- when it was brought back, it just went back on the shelf. No thanks.

Interesting post fellas. I've been eyeing that HF washer for a while now, and part of the hold up has been deciding what to put in it. In my gallon dip can on the bench I've been using good ol' mineral spirits.. degreases really well but doesn't budge varnish, maybe softens valve carbon goop.. I experimented with oven cleaner.. got the idea from Zap a long time ago. Took varnish straight off cranks,cams... cleaned aluminum blocks quite well but did etch their surface even thought I limited the time on the aluminum to a minute or two. Funny thing is those block halves emitted the odor of the oven cleaner in my garage for days, maybe weeks!

I have seen the Harbor Freight kits... do you think you could weld up a dash board that had split with sun wear? What kinda plastic is that anyhow??

1/2" drive for me too, but I thought I saw harborfreight selling a drain plug socket set last time I was in the local one

The injectors came in the mail today-- thank you Josh!

You can as Haynes suggests you can unbolt the compressor and swing it onto the side. Could you get your covers off from below? Years ago I had the exact same set up, and was doing an engine swap. I went ahead and had the ac evacuated- it was no charge at a shop, they only charged to fill back up. You may want to make a few phone calls either way- good luck

I found mine on my 91 leg up behind nearly everything on the left side, without enough slack to snap them together, had to make a short jumper. And yes, black not green.. green is dealer check I guess

To my untrained and imaginitive eye the rails for both the black and grey appear the same, in stark contrast to the rail holders for the red topped injectors... but I am getting tired of fooling with this. The black and grey ones sit in the holding cups at a 45* to the pistons, the red sit in line if that makes sense.. Josh, if you have that set available I would be interested. Shoot me a PM on what you think would be fair, I can do paypal or snail mail money if you like... They were working when pulled? Do you mind checking resistance on them? Rick- thanks for pointing that out- far far cheaper than the $130 at 1stsubaru, and less sketchy than ebay. Its a viable option. The yards out this way have a few red jobbers, but no black or grey that I've found yet. Caleb

Howdy all- car I am working on is a 1991 automatic n/a legacy.. Is there anyone on here that has successfully run fuel injectors from a standard trans motor (black top) in an automatic (grey top) early 90-91 legacy? Have you had issues with perfromance or economy? A search found mention of how this should work, or don't do it since computers may be different.. but I didn't see any mention of someone having tried it. My situation is that I had 2 bad injectors, and managed to drop one of the 2 good ones on my garage floor busting the plastic cap. I have 3 black topped injectors handy, and 3 red topped (later year- 1993-95?) at hand. The red topped injectors sit in the different/longer rail assembly, while the black and grey both sit in the shorter rail I've been playing around trying to get this all straight- currently have cylinders 1,3 and 2 all running ok with black topped inj's with 4 having the one good grey. I have been having some leak down issues due to flooding and was going to replace the o rings, but want to know if I should even bother persuing this or try to find a matched set of grey topped injectors like the car came with. Thanks

Hi Zach. Sorry for the hard times- you haven't driven on it long enough to be overdue on the 2nd retorque have you? I didn't think you've had it installed long enough (@1k miles it would have been due IIRC) I know I sold it as-is, but I feel bad. If you could get it back to me w/ a gasket(s) I'd be willing to put them on- pain in the rump roast for you, but it's what I can offer. I would also ask you foot the bill for milling if it turns out to be needed. Give me a call if you want to talk, I don't work till later today.

subiemech-- pls post your vacuum set up. I was reading this thread as I have just rebuilt a hitachi and did ok, but am axing all non critical lines.. As Frank B suggested there are o-rings where fuel enters into the venturis.. set screws on opposing sides fix them in place. Couldn't hurt to check..

Hi there. I have a pair here in the tri cities but like the 4 you've got they have the small crack between valves. I would just get them resurfaced and think about a valve grind if you can afford it.. or just clean the valves up and lap them in..

A belated happy birthday Ed~!

Coupe eh? Niice! Yes.. things are much much better and have been.. Out in the tri cities area. No internet at home so I hit it up at the library. Tough because sometimes access is limited to a half an hour, and I need to make it when they're open obviously. I've snuck on the forum now and then to check out what's up but feel pretty outta touch.

Hi guys. It's been ages since I've posted or been in touch. I've moved twice.. been in a house now since last fall. Finally have a garage set up again- and everything out of storage etc. Zap - Sorry if I was a pretty bad flake before disappearing. Looks like I've got 2 helicoil kits that are yours. One that I had used for stripped head bolts ages ago- and one for exhaust studs. Shoot me an address and I can ship them to you- or we can work something out. Mike W- Still have a weber that belongs to you- Think I had brought it along to the last WCSS I was at (2-3 years ago?) and failed to see you. PM me and we can sort something out.. Finally working on a soob again.. hatchback I picked up from Jerry (hi Jerry). Started work on it last year (!)on the side of a rental house in Prosser.. was interrupted by buying a house, things that are supposedly more important- "real life" stuff.. back in the swing now that I've spent some time setting up a shop though. Feels good. Think I forgot how much I enjoyed these machines.

Happy Bday man!

FWIW Check the Mopar truck section- I found an old Plymouth truck w/ 14" "wagon" style 14" 6 lugs a little while ago. Last I saw only 1 was left-

Which shucks was this (I am in the N end/northgate area)

I looked over the SJR kit at the show and it really does look great and seems like a good design- Just make sure you have good steel on you rear torsion tube assembly as the design currently does require some cut and paste welding rather than blocks-- not a problem for most of us but if you're driving a car sponsored by Mr. Salty I would look that area over real careful for rust (Alaskans take note) Then again, if the car has enough rust that that would be an issue any other kits probably a bad idea I would think.