Svengouli7

Dante, I have 3 pugs here in the N end, 14" steels, Lemme know what style/depth you need and I will look to see if I got it, if Q isn't helping you out-

*tear in my eye* Gald to see it's coming along McBrat- and very glad someone had the time and space to take her in!

Caleb, be careful trying to follow the angle of the existing hole when drilling it out. I went through this experience and tried to let the drill follow the existing holes by hand- I had 3 holes to do and thus ended up w/3 studs off at different angles. I used 7/16" threaded rod, did not have to open the washers. Wish you the best luck.

Roger that. Will not melt

Whelp, don't everybody jump at once. So far, so good. I cut the old flange off, after a little grinding to taper the fuji bead I was able to get it sitting snug in the 2" tube and welded it in. Looks like at about 62" it needs to go into a 60* then maybe another pc (on stock at this point seems to commonly be a 90*) to the muffler. I grabbed a turbo free-flow at action for $30. I'll keep yall posted.

Books show use of a spring balance to measure the drag in the assembly before disassembly. I don't have sensitive enough torgue wrench to measure drag or spring balance. Anyone done this ok just by "feel" of tightness? I can't imagine this being too different that rear 2wd bearing seating.

OK well on my way w/ my project wagon. Lift is done but now I wanna put in a 2" pipe from the cat back, might gut the cat after I pass emissions. Anyone got an idea of what-all I need for angle peices etc from prev goes? I do have access to a wire fed welder and a cut off saw for good angles- will a tail pipe expander open up the tubing enough to swag it together?

I gotta sneak preview. I think this next one of Eric's has gotta be the sharpest lookin lifted hatch yet. The tan one was tight- and clean. This one's just stunning though!

Try driving in reverse a few feet

I had a bearing come out w/ an axle on an EA82. Examination did reveal a little bit of pitting in the hub. I cleaned w/ a bit of emery cloth, and ended up doing both bearings. If you need to go cheap there are 2-3 bearing shops on 4th av S off the michigan exit- I think its a '209'. I picked up sealed bearings down there for about $15 each, the guy quoted @$11 for regular (about $10-15 less that Schucks/action) Seals you will have to pick up at an auto parts store probably for about $5 ea. BTW I am not convinced sealed ones are the way to go. No matter what small grit can work its way in there. Plus the outer race has only about a millimeter exposed so tapping them in w/anything but another bearing is probably a bad idea.

Yep, Thanks a million Ken, John, Zap and all others. Hope it cleaned up ok and all the campers packed up their own trash. Really was a nice venue- not too far for us in the north end of things, but far enough south to take a bit of the edge off for the lower Oregon/Cali etc guys. Really nice looking north to Adams and South to Hood-- not to mention the Columbia. Well done- seemed there was something there for everyone!

Booyah. slack wins again.

Wish I had thunk of them before I spooged weld all over.

Just got done a little bit ago welding a steering extension. I did the best I could (flux core wire fed, I preheated w/mapp hoping to get more penetration) But this being the peice I really fear failure in, was wondering if a machine shop would be willing to put to 1/8" or so hole through my sleeve& shaft assembly so I could put some roll pins in for an added failsafe. I do have a newly acquired drill press too, but I am thinking the oem shaft is pretty damn hard... I'd call a shop but I will have to wait to monday, and am curious.

Sorry Tim I just picked up on this thread. Mon through Thursday eh? If there is anyway to play hookie from work I just might be able to. Be a chance to meet Andy too- it would be a little tough though frankly. Like Rob said, shame you landed 5 hrs short of ocean side!

I am in the middle of putting some new rear bearings in (4wd gl) and have some regular red disk/wheel bearing grease handy but am wondering if it is worth running out for some moly-b black grease for them. Any educated opinions out there?

I'll be there. Probably w/ 2 or more peeps. Prolly have 1 soobie and some infidels.

I used some sealed bearings on the brat I am driving now. The outer race on those things is about 1/2 the thickness of the outer race on non-sealed ones, meaning don't even try to use a punch in driving em in. It will slip and damaged the metal seal. Use an old bearing to push em in once started.

tri[ple check your linkage. Make sure the valves are closing fully when off the throttle. Make sure you have a goods return spring set up?

I have to second all notions. Tim and Vicky helped me out a lot when I broke down out there way. Their just doing what their boss tells em too. And its appreciated.

hi Gravel Pretty sure its the blue wire- in a group of three like this _ l l top wire.

Whoa. Sorry to hear this man! I just sent you a pm about other things- lemme know if this changes things ($$$) for you and you want out of our arrangement. I have learned the cams are slightly different between SPFI and carbed. Maybe a search for details is in order.

Kinda guessing here but I think the Aussie BYB site could help you better. Swinging a hammer in Telluride? Ever meet a Brian Johnson? Good luck

The only stunts I think I have seen like it were maybe the pictures of Austin and Ken launching outta that gravelly pit like last summer. All I know is I was up on the bluff minding some other important business only to have a charging beige soob make me look over to the right just in time to see it go damn near air borne after charging a 10-12' bank! Yeah Eric. We can trade. Just trying to help you out.

How about checking the wire that runs to the pressure sending unit? Make sure it is connected and connected well.