karinvail

Ya, they might not know exactly what's out there on the cars for wheels. You have to go out there and get the number off the car. If you are interested in them, just say you want to go look at the Subaru's - and then go look for the blue sedan The car # is written in yellow (starts with a F or G I think) - the number is on the back post by the rear window on that car if I remember right.

A ''new'' used one from a junkyard would be WAAAY cheaper! The junkyard I go to already has the tanks pulled an in the trunks so you can inspect them carefully if you need to purchase one.........

Ya, you gotta go in there like you know the place, LOL Where'd ya see the wagon wheels? Did you go out into the yard and look around? The Subaru's are the set of rows on the south side of the yard - almost to the corner where they have the cars to be crushed stacked high. There are a couple in the middle set of rows too. The car with the alloys is about the 3rd row from the back - in the middle. I think it was an F row car - a baby blue 4 dr. sedan.

I know someone who drilled out a broken stud only to drill a little too far and into a water jacket in the block (this was on a semi truck motor). They drained the fluid, JB welded a stud in, let it dry, and had no problems after that. Probably not the ''right'' fix, but it worked............

I would go back and ask again and again - I would be a pain in the arse back! I would LOVE to have a Brat myself.............

I can't think of a single XT I've seen driving around here - but I saw 3 at Farrell's JY in Mt.Vernon yesterday! LOL

Yes, pole vaulting came to me in my nightmares! It was the front u-joint - and it was so hammered! I also noticed that the ''old'' one had zirk fittings at the u-joints and the ''new'' one doesn't. I imagine that someone added the zirk fittings to grease them when they started to wear?

The ones at the JY weren't that shiny, but I don't think that they would take much to get them nice. They had some minor surface stratches, but no edge dents. I didn't scrutinize them, but I think they are worth the $80 - I personally prefer the looks of the wagon wheels and I am not into polishing rims on a regular basis to keep them purdy My car is lucky if she gets a monthly bath, LOL.

sending you a PM...........

that was the price for parts pulled for me. I don't think they allow you to pull your own parts there anymore......

I found a set of 4 alloy rims that look like these http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/8hole.jpg at the Farrell's junkyard in Mt.Vernon - they want $80 for the set. They are on a light blue sedan - I think an '85. I should have been looking for a wagon wheel (I have one bent one), but I spaced that out. These rims caught my eye though (but I'm not going to buy them myself). I had fun browsing at all the Roo's this yard has - they have tons of EA82 wagons and sedans - and a few XT's and a couple EA81 wagons too. I found a fender for my wagon with the same paint color - it's not an *exact* paint match, but it's pretty stinkin' close (and it's straight! LOL!) I think I will be back later for bumpers too. The fender was $50, and the driveline was $35 - is that about ''normal'' price to pay?

Well, that wasn't too difficult! Did it all myself!!! And MAN what a difference!!!!! The front end shake is almost completely gone, the funny noise is totally gone, and at highway speeds my car is quiet! I used to have all these rattles everywhere and they are gone! Those u-joints were just *hammered*. The front one was so beat out, I'm suprised it didn't break!!!! What a relief to have that fixed......

OMG - NOT what I wanted to hear What a pain in the @$$ - I don't want a used part in there if I have to replace it! Dang........

well, looks like we may have found the culprit. A U-joint that has WAAAY too much slop in it. Looks like I get to learn how to change U-joints! Any tips?

The noise is definitely coming directly from the middle of the car - somewhere near the firewall area/transaxle. It just doesn't sound like anything from the steering or wheels - it's not making noise in that area. I have wiggled everything I can get my hands on and can't find anything that would make such a noise. I am glad to think that maybe it's not a throw-out bearing (I definitely DON'T want to pull the motor again!), but man I wish I could figure out WHAT it is. I need my car to go to Monroe this Saturday!!

Well, the noise I am confident is not the axle or the wheel bearings now. I drove hubby to work this morning (at 3am, YUK!) - and the noise is almost certainly coming from the transaxle area - maybe in the bell-housing. The sound is a clinking sound like loose metal flapping and clinking on other metal. It's a faster noise when you are driving faster sometimes, but it doesn't seem to be affected by RPM's, or the clutch/shifting or braking, or which direction I'm steering. It doesn't make the noise when it's idling (whether in neutral of in gear with clutch pressed in). It only makes the noise when driving. The noise comes and goes, and sometimes it's real quiet and barely noticeable - and sometimes it's real violent sounding and it sounds like something is going to fall off. It's totally unpredictable though. We were just under the car working on the exhaust Saturday and we could not see anything that was noticably loose. There was a broken exhaust bracket (the one that hooks to the tranny) that I was HOPING was the noise, but with a new bracket welded up, it is obvious that wasn't it because the noise is still there. I thought for a second that maybe something had dropped into the timing hole in the bell-housing, or something had worked loose on something inside the bell-housing, but it doesn't make the noise at an idle! Only when driving. I am completely stumped. Does the throw-out bearing make strange noises when it's going out?

I will have hubby re-torque the castle nut. We have not messed with the axles, but who knows who did them last. I also forgot to mention that there is a hard/fast vibration in the steering wheel from about 15MPH to 25MPH too.....

I have driven Soob's for 16 years and never had an outer CV joint go out on an axle - had MANY go out in the INNER, but never the outer. Well, this car has been a whole slew of "new" things for me, LOL. The boot is ripped on the outer/passenger side I just noticed because the front is making a funny noise I've never heard before. A clinking sound vs. the clunking sound I've heard before when CV's have gone bad before. Do outer CV joints make a different noise when they go bad than the inner ones????? And, it doesn't seem to be affected by steering - although I do hear it more when driving slow, but that doesn't mean that it's not making the noise at higher speeds (maybe I just can't hear it then over the other car/engine/muffler noise). It does appear that the bearings need done on that side as well (too much play in wheel). So, looks like we are going to be doing an axle and bearings when we get back from vacation - but in the meantime, can I tighten the castle nut or will that mess the bearings up way worse? I don't want to make things more difficult when we go to replace them, but I need to get some more time out of them hopefully.

do you have a clutch fan and an electric fan?

If you don't have the flywheel machined, does that shorten the life of the new clutch?

well, that sure is a different color scheme! What's the sign say on the side? SJRLIFT.COM?

Oh, I am so sorry to hear about the fire - what a bummer it's not insured! Do you have ''freecycle'' in your area on yahoogroups? Maybe you can join a freecycle group and ask for help - maybe someone has a kiln (or building materials) that they don't use anymore. You never know, worth a shot. do you know what *caused* the fire??????? ?

I put a clutch fan on my car a few months back for a short while because I was worried about forgetting to switch the electric one on (it's wired to a switch inside), and it ran *considerably* cooler with the clutch fan, and I never had to use the electric fan at all. It ran too cool to me though (barely above the 'C' mark), so I took it out and just had to learn to remember when to use (or turn off) the electric fan. So, I think that an engine definitely can run too cool with a fan on all the time, even with the thermostat/cooling system working properly.....

after I did my timing belts, the men (that had had a few beers too many while they watched me ) decided they wanted to adjust my carb (stock). I told them not to mess with it, but they did anyhow..... I was wondering if there was a certain setting on the air/fuel mixture screw (assuming that is what that screw is in the front of the carb to the right of the idle screw). They turned it all the way in and then out 2 turns, and then adjusted the idle. I wanted to make sure that was right because it was turned out like 5 turns before they adjusted it.......

my 86 GL wagon has 292,000 miles on the odometer (motor has less on it, but probably about 230,000.....