Subaru_dude

yeah it's cranking.... but it won't run or even try to run. i checked all the fuses and grounds, they seem ok.

ok, my main question is... when you turn the key to the "ON" position (not crank) you're supposed to hear the fuel pump right? i just did a reseal, and as far as I can tell the timing is good, electrical connections seem ok... but i sat in the car and turned the key and i don't hear the fuel pump until I turn it just a little bit further and i hear a clicking in the dash and the fuel pump "pulsates". but then i turn the key to start it and nothing happens. so, here's a list of what i've done so far... i pulled the coil wire off to see if it was sparking... it was. pulled the plug wires off one by one, all had spark. tried turning the disty all kinds of ways.. no go. so, it seems i'm not getting fuel. the fuel pump was good the last time the car ran 3 months ago.

nothing spectacular, but it looks cool.

I think the head to block O-ring you're talking about is actually the cam-tower to head O-ring. about the size of a dime.

yep, ordered those seals. i might just take the a/c compressor off cuz I never used the a/c because it wasn't charged anyhow.

Wtf?

i left the a/c compressor on the car when i pulled the engine. the bracket it sits on is the same and everything. just the block and heads are

i left the a/c compressor on the car when i pulled the engine. the bracket it sits on is the same and everything. just the block and

yeah, i tried not to get any sealant IN the hole. is there anybody who has done the same thing I did and accidentally destroyed the o-rings?

1989 EA82 2wd sedan 5spd. EA82 motor from a 4wd which also had a/c. I just got my a/c compressor bolted on as well as my power steering, but not the alt yet. i just noticed that the a/c compressor sits back about 1/4 of an inch further than the power steering or the main crank pulley. It just doesn't fit correctly. What's my problem here? did they make 2 different a/c compressor brackets for the EA82? I also did a reaseal on the same engine and forgot about one small o-ring... well 2 actually, and it's more of a hard plastic than rubber and it's flat. It sits between the cam tower and the head towards a lower corner on each head, and it's only about as big around as a dime if even that. I blew each one out with an air compressor and broke them both, figured if i just sealed around it with anaerobic sealant that it would do just fine cuz it didn't even look like an actual gasket when it blew out. Should I worry or will the anaerobic sealant hold well enough? Thanks 5 million. -Jordan

www.photobucket.com just get an account, and it'll have an embedded code for your pic. copy and paste.

yeah, those are some good pics for comparison. the first headgasket job I did, I used a dremmel tool with a steel wire brush attachment... and realized what i was doing when the dust went from dark-colred burned up gasket to silver aluminum looking dust. "GOSH DARN IT!!! oh well." did that to one head only... the other one I got as clean as I could (not very clean). it was my first time, didn't know any better. the car lasted about 6,000 miles then somebody totaled it. almost glad it got totaled... lol. I got my heads machined and got the block almost perfectly clean by scraping off all the big stuff with super fine sandpaper, and finishing it off with brilo-pads. talk about blisters, lol. but boy was it clean!! but anywayzz, I don't mean to hijack the thread but this one's so old i don't guess it matters, lol. has anybody ever used some kinda acid to eat the old gasket off the aluminum? i was talking to some of my old buds at the shop i used to work at, and one of them mentioned that he used some kind of acid on aluminum blocks to clean them up... can't remember what the name of it was though. anybody know of any such tactics?

that's pretty amazing... i don't know what to say... our honda got a cup low on coolant and the temp gauge needle was jumping so fast it was causing me to panic. when i would come to a stop and the temperature would climb 60 deg. in 1.5 secs. but now that i recall being low on coolant in my '87 gl... when i was driving it back from nasheville.. yeah!!!! i remember!! it had absolutely no coolant in it and it was running above the middle, but only when i was behind a semi. as long as air was hitting the front of the car, it was only halfway up... but there was NO coolant in the radiator. must be them boxer engines.

man, can't even sneak in for a second without being discovered. you guys are freakin hawks, lol.

alright, i won't worry about it then. i just remember hearing about somebody on here who just did a clutch job, and had a constant vibration that was affected by engine speed and couldn't figure it out... and it turned out that it was his pressure plate mark not being at least 120 deg. off, but i think newer pressure plates come out of the factory balanced.

the clutch kit i bought from napa has some instructions with it and they say to put the mark on the pressure plate 180 degrees from the "0" on the flywheel. for the life of me, i don't see either one. I guess it would be for balance. has anybody ever worried about that when installing a clutch? this is an '89 ea82 with a freshly resurfaced flywheel. thanks all.

why? it's just an EA82

yep, got some ngk's on standby for when the motor goes back in. i think the guy whose garage the motor was sitting in found a couple plugs that fit and just stuck them in there to keep crap out. after this... i plan on having many trouble free miles ahead of me. complete reseal including headgaskets, new water pump, swapping out tranny (leaking at the pilot shaft? i think that's what it's called), new axle, new rear bearings, new rad, belts, hoses, and... i think that's about it.

i was removing the spark plugs from the motor that's going in my ea82 sedan, and realized that the 2 on the passenger side head are autozone plugs and the 2 on the driver side are bosch plugs. BUT... the autozone plugs are quite a bit smaller and therefore, can't be removed with the spark plug socket of the correct Subaru spark plug size. both heads are off the same motor. so what's the deal here? did the passenger side strip at one point and had to be tapped? do spark plugs come in different sizes? thanks to all. -Jordan

you should put functional racing stripes... and definitely some clearcoat on that baby. that's some NICE work you're doing. I guess you plan on keeping Rocky?

yeah, got some parts from parts bin. alot better than driving to the dealership. okay, beginning to get a little paranoid so i thought i'd just ask. when cleaning the block... i noticed the brilo pads i was using would tear all to pieces when i was cleaning those little tiny coolant and oil passage holes and some of the small metal fibers were getting in the passages. i would try to blow them out with compressed air, but i think it was really just blowing all that crap in further. are those tiny little metal threads gonna hurt my motor? or should i just run it for a little while and change the oil filter?

split the tranny? forget that. let it leak. i'll be looking for a tranny.

the shaft coming out of front of the transmission that the throwout bearing slips over seems to be leaking gear oil quite profusely. is there a seal there? and is it easy to replace? thought it was just my axle shafts at first... but when i pulled the engine i realized that's where it was coming from. thanks a bunch. -Jordan

JEEZ!!! if I ever buy a rusted out soob, I know EXACTLY where I'm taking it. how much do you charge?

the load capacity for a soob is 800 lbs I think. but when I drove my auto 2wd loyale wagon to school with me, and 4 other people AND books, football stuff, etc... it was a little over 1000 lbs of weight and NO... it didn't stop very well... but the brakes weren't in very good shape at all. I'd say just 1,000 lbs... it can do it, just be careful. stay in the slow lane.