Subaru_dude

yeah, it's from Vermont and everything's stuck. I wish I would have known better before I bought it... lol.

I got an '87 GL 5spd d/r and I got the engine out of it, need to put the intake manifold on it but don't know where the hoses go, need to put the diff in, axles, rear discs on... need to get the bracket thingy that bolts to the top of the diff that holds it to the bottom of the car, and I think that's about it. and I got a clutch, haven't put it on the engine yet. i'm basically just tired of working on it and will either pay somebody to do it for me or help me out with it. I like the car, but I don't know how much longer I can keep it in the basement... my parents really want it out and so do I but it makes me sick to even look at it, lol. thanks to anybody who responds. I'm sorda desperate, so please do.

I think that's what i'm gonna do with my $100 project car.

with bigger tires, doesn't it effect your low range in a negative way because you can't crawl quite as slow as you could with smaller tires? or is this point not discussed because the lift affords so much more capability?

alrighty!! will do. I've got PLENTY of JB weld standing by... lol. thanks alot guys.

oh yeah.... and I used an M10 1.5...and i'm gonna have to drill it out again to put another helicoil in... what size bit should i use to drill the hole out? i'm so tired of screwing up... lol well actually, it'd be nice to do any type of screwing right now cuz I NEED TO GET THIS THING OUTTA HERE BEFORE I FEEL LIKE I'M

i took off an idler pulley to the timing belt... next to the oil pump.... to take off a piece of timing belt cover. torqued it down... probably to about 20 pounds when it got really easy to turn all of a sudden. stripped out the hole... so I drilled it out to put a heilicore in it... but when I tried to rethread it, the drill got stuck and it burned up, so I had to use a wrench to remove the bit. So I put the core in it... and start threading the bolt in with the timing belt gear on it. It gets stuck, I take it out and the threads are pulled off the bolt. AND I apparently drilled the hole crooked? didn't know I was that dumb... lol. I'm pretty darn sure I didn't cross thread it... should I drill it bigger and try again? there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of aluminum left over from last time though, that's the only problem. Could I take it to a welder and have him weld a stud in it's place? I don't wanna do that, but that's what I"m leaning towards. Thanks to anybody who has any advice.

no... there's not supposed to be rubber on top. That's just there to stop it from completely crushing the rubber in the case of extreme tension.

Okay, PB Blaster sucks. I'm never buying another can of this stuff again, lol. The tie-rod end popped right off... and as for the whole bearing assembly, which I've been doing war with for a few days, it came right out. All the bolts popped right out, even the ones I had already stripped. I still have yet to go at the rear axles... I'll do that later on this evening. As for right now... I gotta go get a 7/32 punch and a bigger hammer. THE SUBARU HURSE OF DEATH SHALL SEE THE LIGHT OF DAY ANY WEEK NOW. MWA HA HA HA.

anybody ever heard of Nut Cracker? made by Rubber-Seal... non-silicone rust penetrating agent. $7 a can, not bad. the mechanics where I thought it from said it was the best stuff they had ever used in their lives. it better be good... lol. Wish me luck!!!

Thanks. would I be able to find that stuff down here in Tennessee?? cuz I've never heard of it.

i just pm'd him... i'll post it up on this thread as soon as he pm's me back. thanks northguy

i'll try that Kroil stuff... hell, might as well try Zep too just to know cuz nobody else seems to know, lol. thanks guys.

anybody ever heard of Zep? Prestige carries it down here, they work on Hondas and Subarus for the most part... it's $10 a can. I'm wondering if it would help me get my gal darn rear axles out? and it seems my whole front end is locked up in rust... lol. PB blaster seems to work to an extent... thanks for the help guys.

bought an '84 Subaru GL sedan, 4x4 auto with an extra engine that needs resealed really bad for just $100. runs really good, but the tranny leaks fluid like crazy. thinking about putting a 4-speed in it. not very much rust at all, nice interior too. no broken or cracked glass, paint is in better than average condition, hood just a little scorched. turn signals and everything work, doesn't smoke a bit. engine bay is nice and clean too... never experienced really salty conditions. I'm a happy camper.

yeah... it's something that holds up the linkage, and I think when it goes out, it let's the linkdage scrape against the driveshaft. that happened to mine... made alot of really annoying noise. Nothing a piece of gravel and a zip tie couldn't fix. I would recommend something a little more.... professional perhaps? lol.

Speaking of bad bearing... I can't get a bolt out of the front end to get the whole whatever it is assembly out to put new bearings in it... it's a bolt located just above where the lower tie rod end connects to the assembly. I thought it was 12 mm... seemed to fit just fine, but then I started turning it and it just felt like i was constantly turning the bolt... but it never broke loose. Now I got one wasted nut, and one that I can't quite figure out? It seems to just keep turning... maybe I'm going crazy? maybe I need sleep??? I dunno what the hell is going on.... haha. should I cut it off? whatever the answer is, I'm sure you guys will point me in the right direction. Thanks times a million. -Jordo smordo

did I ruin my heads? lol.... even after spending hours on mine, it looks nothing like that. i'm gonna go out and get some scotch pads... lol.

look for footprints, find a good tracker, and kill someone.

what's the best way to clean off the old headgasket material? I used a dremmel tool... started noticing metal shavings, and stopped immediately. as far as I can tell with a straight edge, I haven't done anything... or have I? I really pray that I didn't, lol. I've been using a paint scraper on the rest of it and am being very VERY carefly... is this okay? do the surfaces have to look like new for the gasket to seal properly? Thanks for the info.

pulled a 5,000 pound truck 1/8 of a mile uphill once, had it in d/r 2nd gear... the guy still thinks it never happened. It just doesn't seem physically possible to him... lol. HOLY FREAKIN CRAP I MISS MY SUBARU. HONDAS CAN'T DO JACK SQUAT. well, they can squat just fine... haha.

oh jeez, I can't believe how siezed my rear axles are. i'm denting the heck out of them, does that matter? lol. am I gonna have to get new axles? if that's the case, i'm just gonna buy a whole new rear end from a junkyard and not worry about it. rear discs are better anyhow . I mentioned that to somebody at work, and they said that you had to put a different master cylinder in it too cuz the disc brakes push with a different amount of pressure than the drums do..... is this something that Subarus are immune to? lol..... thanks for any imput.

hang around the parking lot until you see him again... and follow him home. MWA HA HA HA. lol

i think if i keep hitting it with this sledge hammer it'll come off... oops, broke the sledge. my goodness these things are stuck, lol. I think i've calmed down enough to get this done.

I really need help here... I got the differential disconnected from the car itself, it's sitting on the ground with the axles and driveshaft attached. How do I get this freakin thing out? i've cracked the windshield and there's a dent in the door in the shape of my fist. help me before I kick it off the jackstands. I have issues with working on cars. do I need to put the diff back up to get the axles out? and the pins are out. Thanks a hell of a lot.