calebz

Factory service manual is the way to go.. Especially if you are having wiring problems. Chiltons, haynes, HTKYSA... all suck at the wiring

That right there folks, is a winner 1 cheap 2 easy to find 3 long lived 4 beats the crap out of the competition of the time. They aren't pretty, they aren't fast, they don't handle exceptionally well.. But they get the job done.

Before applying 12v directly, I would suggest testing for voltage at the solenoid pack There should be 12v at one of the solenoids at all times when the ignition is on. If you aren't getting voltage to one or both of the solenoids, then you have trouble somewhere before them. You can apply power dorectly to them without harming anything, and yes they should click.

Don;t have your answers, but I'm betting one of the guys in Oz knows.. try www.ausubaru.com All those guys get is JDM stuff, so they may have more specific info for you.

My brackets are just little spacer blocks..

That won't happen if you secure the wheels properly. If you don't secure the wheels properly, any car can hop off the wheel lift. One other option I haven't seen covered here. Rear wheel dollies. Car goes on wheel lift like normal, but there are individual little rollers that go under the rear wheels. They have been very useful to me in the past for reposessions.

Its not the loyales we hate.. Its the owners!! J/K Truth be told, the average Loyale was simply a stripped down GL. reat utilitarian vehicle, but thats about it. The earlier cars had more available options (turbo and such) to up the fun factor a little.

Yup

5 speed manual: All four down ok flatbed ok towdolly with rears on the ground ok when driveshaft removed Auto : Flatbed ok towdolly with driveshaft removed ok Any deviation from the above will result in destroyed center diff

The size of the wheel is not really important. What is important is the overall outer diameter of the tire you use. Stock diameter is about 23 inches. I have been running 25 inch tires (185-75-14) and it throws everything off by 9-10% If you were to get wheels with low profile tires, nothing will really change.. as long as the overall outer diameter is unchanged.

eBay special.. I think I Paid about $50 after shipping.. They were listed for an 02-04 WRX

The best way to accomplish a compressor removal is to find an alternator bracket from a car with no AC.. bolt on, apply new belts, done deal, just like it was never there. If you are lucky, I may just happen to have one of those brackets in my garage.. I seem to remember tripping over it recently Also.. which is closer to your battery.. thet AC compressor or the alternator (came equipped both ways)

www.1stsubaruparts.com Good parts, decent prices, better service than any other dealership I have dealt with. Just noticed they are reasonably close to you as well (auburn)

Search is your friend http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29187&highlight=codes Enough torture.. here's the direct link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44

I own a couple of dual pump cars.. Before I can really answer your questions though, I have to ask. Why would you want to do this. Most people that have dual pump cars do everything they can to eliminate one of the pumps.

I think he's referring to the recirc valve that is stock with the WRX IC.. Because you are right, there isn't one on an EA82T.. Then again, he also said he has a VF4, and a TD04 from a 2001 WRX (which in itself is possible if its JDM)..So who knows. Good luck on your rebuild.. Have fun with it. Let us know how it turns out. Could you explain just how a stock recirc valve could 'stall' the turbo? Also.. where did you come up with 'OEM FORGED PISTONS'?

Here's Ken's pic Ken, your host doesn't allow hotlinking.. Thats what the photo gallery is for;)

Berrimans B-12 is good too.. just don't use too much

Nope.. Engine Computer doesn't care what transmission you use.

You don't specify whether you are asking about a turbo car or not. Will's info was geared toward turbo only. Most of the 90+ EA82 cars are N/A... somthing like 90 hp

The lag could very easily be caused by the oversized piping of the header. Can't really compare it to Will's lack of lag though.. you are running a bit bigger torbo than he is. Bigger turbo Low compression Too big header diameter all add up to increased lag.

Is the rotor turning when you turn the motor over? Could be a broken timing belt. The driver side belt runs the dizzy. If the belt breaks, there will be no spark.

It needs: Fuel Air Spark Compression. Any one of those things will cause it to not go. Fulfill those requirements and report back Welcome to the board. EDIT: Just noticed where you are.. Richie has a shop in Portland - board name richierich. He and his dad do good work. Additionally, there are a large number of other members between seattle and portland. I'm sure one of which could be convinced to lend a hand if necessary.

Nah.. its probably one of the only jobs thats lower on the food chain than yours.. well.. except maybe mine.

The boot may be currently holding in the leakage from your seals, But not only is that not the function of it, but it won't last. Enjoy it while you have it:D