calebz

Buy the wagon. Now. Offer $400 and drive it home Edit: What color is the 87? is the rear glass all thats wrong with it? Theres a rear hatch or 2 laying around here. Feel like a road trip?

Its running way rich.. I had a similar problem in Feb. Turned out to be the MAF. Gave no code and I did everything you did. Eventually just started pulling known good spare used stuff out of the garage and throwing parts at them damn car until it worked right.

Can't really give you much advice on parts to install the IC without knowing what IC you are going to install.. I used an RX7 Top mount and was able to plumb it using stock steel and silicon from the RX7 and a Mitsubishi starion. Had to weld a small tube onto one of the pipes for the recirculation valve, other than that it was pretty easy.. Heres the IC Heres the scoop

Your description is somewhat vague, but it soumds like A) You just replaced your motor Not everything is quite hooked up where it should be C) You have a major vacuum leak(s)

Be sure to settle your car and your medical bills seperately. I spent a number of years working in the medical field, many of which were spent dealing with incurance ocmpanies on this sort of crap. If you would like, I will give you my phone number and we can talk tomorrow (monday). I would really hate to see you get screwed over on this.

Hey now rob, no trying to horn in on the grey market stuff;)

I'm right in the middle of a block swap now.. just came in from working on it as a matter of fact. I am using the carb block.. 8.5:1 as opposed to the SPFI block (9.5:1) Factory turbo is 7.7:1.. 8.5:1 seems like a safe compromise.. Milesfox has done it , seemingly successfully, maybe he'll chime in

EA82s only have one filter, at least the FI ones, and thats the big one under the hood. But I agree, thats a good place to start.

As a reference, about a year ago when my 88 was totalled, they offered me $600.. I ended up settling for $2300 and I bought the car back for $25 I had no DR bills bcause I wasn't there when it happened, it was a valet that wrecked it

That crank pulley bolt is 22 MM.. There are a few different tricks to getting it of.. One I learned from GD recently was to pull a spark plug and fill a cylinder with rope.. that will stop the motor from turning over when you reef on that bolt.. works like a charm PS.. one of my first posts was asking what the hell is up with the crank pulley being in the way of the water pump!!?!!

Good luck to you and her. I hope there is something we can do to help. THeres a lot of information here to be had.

Yay for you:rolleyes: How? Yeah its fear:rolleyes: I totally fear all things rice.. Things like this The wikid Kia of doom! ^^ Thats why there are rice haters.. If you're are a ricer, you get hated on.. Deal with it.

its been done, the EJ motor will not bolt up to the EA tranny without an adapter. You need the wole wiring harness for the motor. A search of the USMB will yield quite a bit of info on it PS, your sig says "Dual Range AWD" or something like that.. Just a little info. If you have a factory 86 D/R, its not AWD.. its 4WD

What year is the Euro grey market stuff? I am interested in a wiring harness and computer from a Euro Turbo EA82. Thanks,

We have gone through about 8-9 parts soobs down here in the past year. But they get crushed fast because of lack of storage space.. It never fails that a week later I need something off of one.. Someone here just acquired some acreage with 2 shops on it though... hehe.. I am hoping to be able to store a few of the parts soobs for a little longer now..(you listenin boy? you know I'm talking to you )

Not sure exactly what heat shields an EA81 has... an EA82 has like 4 heat shields.. Can't honestly say I use any of them.

I just pulled mine off about an hour ago It put up some fight, but a couple big flat screwdrivers convinced it to behave

Jacking the motor up out of the car is the easiest way to remove the crossover pipe. If the leak is at the uppipe/turbo gasket, it would probably be easier to just pull the turbo. A leak there will affect turbo performance Vacuum leaks at the heater controls shouldn't affect turbo performance. THere is a check valve at the canister to stop the vacuum controls for the HVAC from going into positive pressure.

Try new gen forum.. they know more about the new gen stuff

2-4 hours depending on ability could probably be done in 1 if you are a super speed demon.

Hmm.. ok.. Don't know anything abou the gregory manuals. It just happens to have a nearly identical layout to every chiltons manual I have. Thanks for putting this up. Will add it to the collecttion

Here's the thread with the above quote. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=575696 do a search for his username to find some of his other interesting words of wisdom

Junkyard waterpump is just asking for trouble. an aftermarket pump with a lifetime warranty is about $50-$60 and can be done in about 2 hours. the shop quoting $600 is just out to get you.

Looks like a chiltons manual

This is from another site. I know a couple of you have seen it. The guy claims to be a 15 year Subaru tech, but I have to call BS on this.. 13s with nothing but raised boost? and has anyone actually tried to get the full 15psi from a VF7?