RallyKeith

Oh, I beg to differ. Only in the wet will that happen. With an STi in the dry you get mild rear wheel spin and then off like an SOB! It's really is a sick experiance. Keith

Well, I carry Limited Tort insurance which means I can't sue for "pain and suffering," but I could sue for an injury that alters my way of life, and it certianly has. I haven't been back in the rally car since, and to some extent that bothers me. Keith

What exactly do you mean? I've never heard that expression. I got hit by a 99 Ford Escort that was going about 35 to 40mph. Traffic had stopped for a trash truck. I stopped, the next car behind me was a good 200yards or more behind me. He never stopped. Speed limit on the road is 45, and he only hits his brake with in the last 10-20 feet before hitting me. Car held up a bit too well. Enough energy was transfered through the car that it bent up my seat. I've been seing a Chirpractor ever since! The worst part is that I didn't even flip out on the guy. What could I do. Anyhow, thanks to my friends at the dealership it was bought at you absolutley can not tell anything happened! Actually, I drove the car home from the accident and it drove straight. Keith

Welcome, Believe us, if it could be done, good or bad, someone on the board has done it. We aren't are uppity and stupid like some of those other subaru boards. Keith

Ditto what he said, but if it's an impreza outback that should be a 2.2l and I doubt it would have head gasket problems. Also, when you drive it, drive for at least 15 minutes. The tranny fluid does not get up to temperature as quickly as the coolant, so even though the temp gauge may look good after 5-7 minutes, keep driving it. The only way to make sure the tranny doesn't act funny is to get it good and warm. Keith

Well now, if it was for an RX that's one thing. I certianly hope you at least have a turbo wagon. Anyhow, all kidding aside, I own an STi (along with an RX and many other old school subies over the yeaers) and I also own what I believe takes the prize for the first US STi to be in an accident that wasn't from stupid driving. All of my accident damage pics can be found at: http://www.rallyracers.com/sti Pics #1 and #17 appear to be the best for trying to figure out the size of it. Sometime tomorrow I can actually measure it and take dimensions if you like. Keith

I sent a PM to Shawn to ask him to archive this so we dont lose this information. According to http://www.power-auto-parts.com the NDC part number is: A2030-32021 and retails for $33. Thanks all, Keith K.

I've run a supertrapp on my autocross car for years. I just took it off and converted the car back to normal since I've bought an STi. The muffler has rusted off of my RX however, so I think the supertrapp has found it's new home. Keith

Good Find! Thanks for the extra info. They ordered in the Federal Mogal bearings that I listed above and they arrived yesterday. Opened up the box and they are the right thing. Now for the intersting part. I paid $53 for the original and thinner non-turbo bearing set. These came in and only cost me $30. So, what looked like it was going to be a very expensive problem has turned out to be a cheaper problem! Thanks Keith

Well, I did a bunch of diging on my own and found a Federal Mogul Sealed power part number and confimed with an engine builder I know that this part number is in fact wider than the standard part number listed. We were able to confirm this through a parts book from 1997. The part to order is a federal mogul 41065cp and can even be ordered from http://www.partsamerica.com Using a narrower rod bearing on a turbo motor is not a good Idea. Especially with a turbo where detonation and high rod bearing forces are more readily happening. I'm not sure what I would have done if I was not able to find the correct bearing. Keith

The Rod bearings on an EA-82T are wider than those used in the non-turbo models. Every online parts place lists the same part number for turbo vs. non. Also, the newer parts catalogs list the same bearings for every motor, and the that part number is the narrower non-turbo bearing. The dealer wants $240 for a new set, and that is just highway robbery. So, does anybosy know where I can get aftermarket bearings of the same size? Does anybody know a manufacturer and part number for the correct bearing? Thanks, Keith

Well, if you guys are talking about stability, the Impreza has a lower center of gravity than the Legacy, and is also a stronger chassis. Your friends outback wagon was just that an outback wagon. The Outbacks aren't exactly know for riding or handling well. I've been involved in rallying for years now and I wouldn't go with anything other than an Impreza. We started with a Legacy and moved to an Impreza and the difference in handleing is very noticable thanks to the lower center of gravity. The only problem is that you won't find anything in an Impreza that has the 5spd 4wd with the 2.2L until 1996, and I don't think you'll find that for what you're looking to spend. So, in reality your limited to the legacy anyway. Try to find a first or second year turbo legacy. Good power, and failry easy to extract more. Only problem with them is that parts aren't cheap. Keith

You are Absolutely Correct! I lined up the new bearings with the old and they were a good 3/16" narrower.(If that's a word) So I guess it's back to the parts store to see what can be straightened out. Keith

That's kinda funny to me. My engine spun and destroyed a rod bearing! In fact, when we (professional engine builder and I) went through and ordered the parts the Rod bearings were only offered in one material that he told me wasn't as good as the mains material we were getting. Keith

I had the exact same problem! EXACT! Blew apart my muffler at the seam, and even blew apart the honeycomb inside the catalytic converter. The trick Qman suggested will fix it. I replaced everything in my system and could never figure it out. Only thing I didn't replaced was the antibackfire valve since it tested fine and cost a ton of money. Keith

Ok, so I went and bought new main and rod bearings and also rings for my EA-82T rebuild. I got them home and opened them up and both bearing sets say EA-63,71,81 on them, the one set was even made in 1985! Anyhow, I did some looking on http://www.carparts.com and it appears that the same part number for all three sets is the same from an EA-81 to an EA-82T! Is this right? Keith

HUGE HUGE HUGE Difference between his car (EA-82) and your Brat (EA-81). If you have an EA-81 that reads 0 or little oil pressure at idle then there is a serious problem! Good thing you found it had the wrong sending unit. Keith

Ok, I'm not being a wise :moon: about this, if you have the owner's manual for the car it is actually written in it! It is normal for ea-82s to show little to no oil pressure on the cheap factory gauge, and that is stated in the manual. If you buy a mechanical aftermarket gauge and hook it up you most likely find that it is running about 10psi at idle. The factory gauge has to cover a large pressure range in a small area so it tends to be off. Lots of people have asked that same question, and my RX was that way when I got it. So it's normal, but for the $50 it might be a good idea to buy a cheap gauge and hook it up. Keith

Well, what makes this all very intersting is that I've got three sets of heads (second gen) that all have small crack looking things on them below the valve seats. One set just came off of a motor that I was driving and had no problems. Motor wasn't using oil or antifreeze and it wasn't down on power. This makes me think something funny is going on here. I'll put up some pics tonight that show the "cracks" Keith

Thanks for the link. Now the question is what is common and acceptable for cracks below the seat if anything? Thanks, Keith

I can't seem to find much of anything on the new board here so lets run through this again. EA-82 cylinder heads are know for having cracks between the intake and exhaust valves. What is acceptable? Cracks only on the outer surface above the valve seats? Cracks below the valve seats, and if so how far? (How far before the valve guide?) I've got three sets of heads in my garage that all have what look like some kind of crack below the valve seats. One set came off of a good and running motor. Keith

Most places don't even list anything for the EA-82T. I've got a relationship with my local dealership so I can get new factory pistons for a good price(the same as most aftermarket parts for say a honda). The real problem is that I only need two. If I buy aftermarket I'd have to buy 4 to make sure the weights matched. If I just get the two I need from the dealer I don't need to worry. RallyRuss, I had 8 pistons, 4 good 4 with scuffs and other bad things, until I left them soak in a very strong cleaning solution overnight. Now I've got 2 good, 2 bad, and 4 corroded and not usable. Oh well, I guess I learned my lesson.

So I guess there is no where to get them other than the dealer. Keith

How does the brake pedal feel? If the brake rotors are warped you would feel a pulsing in the pedal, and if warped enough you could feel that through the steering wheel at speed. Just a thought, Keith

Want some advice on what to check or should we keep trying to figure out what lights you do or don't have? :argue: Make sure the level in your brake fluid reservoir is not below the low mark, or even sitting on the low mark. If that is case first check all the brake pads to make sure they aren't worn out. If they are not worn out fill the reservoir to about half way. Also, unthread the cap for the reservoir and make sure the thin rubber membrane that is supposed to be sticking down is actually sticking down. With the drop in temp that may have inverted itself and could cause problems. Give those a try and see what happens. (FWIW this is basically what a dealer service rep would tell you if you called and asked) BTW, what year legacy?