RallyKeith

I've heard else where that if you take the two alternators to an alternator shop they can find a pulley that will bolt on with no spacer required. I haven't bothered with that yet since my car isn't running, but when I do it I'll let you know what I find. Keith

It was a trim level available on the 88 and 89 (first gen) Justy. It was still a carbed 1.2l, but it was also 4wd. Keith

Those guys wanted to buy a TR-7 of mine to do that with. Only problems is that they only wanted to give me $200 for two cars worth of parts! Keith

Camping? How about this! Directions to AC! I'm going Gambling! Daddy needs to pay off his new toy! Seriously, I'd probably go to Atlantic city, play some poker, and then drive back home. BUT, that is only if I can make it. Keith

Since you're coming from lancaster come up 222 to reading and they get onto 61 north. About 5 miles north of Leesport on 61 (Where Moyer Subaru is now) is a place called A-Z U-pull it. You may want to stop there first since it's on the way and they don't charge to get in. They had a white XT there earlier in the summer. If you do go all the way up to NewRinggold can you give us an update on the inventory? I haven't been there in about 2 years. I'm personally interested in EA-82T cars, but I'm sure we can all benefit. Thanks, Keith

The diff lock locks the center diff. Other wise the center diff is a normal open diff. The cars that came with diff lock came with mechanical LSDs in the rear, so locking the center diff means you can basically get out of (or into ) anything. Keith

What have the folks at Becker had to say about it? I'm guessing it's just the clutch on the compressor engaging and disengaging and you're feeling the loss of power when it engages and the gain of power when it disengages. If you want to test my theory there should be a wire going to the compressor that controls this. Disconnect the wire and try driving the car with the AC on. If it still does it then it is something else and you probably should take it back to the dealer to let them experience it. Keith

Counting Backwards from 1000 it's 750, 500 then the bottom line is 0. In this pic it is sitting at 0. the next space in the white band is actually 500. The you see the mark for 1 meaning 1000 rpm http://www.rallyracers.com/brat/odo.html Keith

Looks like you need to put a "Maybe" next to my name. Great Northern Woods Club rally is that weekend and if our rally car is back together in time I'll have to be there. Won't really know until the week before. I will however take this moment to let everyone know that there is a TSD rally held on a lot of the same roads driven for the meet, on Nov. 22nd. I WILL be there for that! Rock On! Keith

Well, I've decided I'm just gonna make good with what I've got. I measured everything up last night and I've got a perfectly good crank and rods that don't require machining. I've also got heads and cams that are all in spec. The block and pistons should be fine in the original motor so it's just a matter of putting them all together. More time but less money than buying one. Keith

It's not too bad. I did one with the help of my father. The rebuild kit I got was from Beck Arnley and came with everything I needed. It basically replaces all the internals except the float. I think the only really hard part was setting the float. Keith

I have no idea. I did a bunch of research and test drove a bunch of Automatics for my Aunt a year ago. Other than that I can't say. I've never owned one or worked on one. From what I understand it's not that hard. Best bet is to call your local friendly dealer service department and ask. That's what I did and where I got my info from. Keith

That's what I figured. I sent CCR an e-mail for a quote on the short block, but would you mind telling me what you paid? I already know I'm looking at about $200 for ring and bearings, but I already bought an engine gasket set, so that means I'll be "wasting" some already purchased parts. But then again it would be less work I have to do and a lot less time I'd have to spend, and time is money these days. Keith

The story goes like this. The motor in my RX spun a bearing. That said I knew I would need at least some new internal, but probably only the crank. Then I came across a dealer parts car that had a few things stripped off the motor like the water pump and oil pump, but was still a complete engine. Only problem was that it was a trade in and they thought the customer said it was overheated, but weren't sure. So for the $50 I bought it and proceeded to disassemble it. I've still got the complete motor in the car, so unless I could just get a short block from them at a reasonable price I'll probably just tear down the other motor and make 1 good out of the two. Keith

When it shifts from second to third does it slip at all? Do the RPMs rise a bit before going down for the taller gear? The biggest problem with the automatics is the seal for the pump in the trans. The seal gets worn and it can't build the pressure. Higher RPM means higher pressure so you have to rev it more to get it to shift and also it won't shift "hard" enough and it slips. This sounds like it would make sense for what you're describing. Keith

No visable cracks and the piston looks just like all the other in the engine. I'll be taking some pictures today, but everything seems fine. The head bolts required an impact gun to get out, but I'll try putting one on and see what happens. Keith

As I mentioned above everything still looks in spec. If I measure the inside bore of the cylinder and it is within spec for diameter and roundness can I use it? In other words, if all it did was spin and it's still round and at the correct height (Not recessed) why couldn't I use it? Keith

I forgot to mention, Both the Block and the heads appear to be straight. Neither of them appear warped. Also, this is the cylinder that sits next to the turbo. Keith

Ok, So I'm finally rebuiling a motor for my RX. We started taking the block apart to find something partially blocking access to the wrist pin on one of the pistons! After getting the block completely apart we found it to be that the sleeve for the cylider had rotated maybe 15 degrees, and it isn't loose. :-\ So, my question is, has anybody ever seen this before and does this mean there is something wrong with the block? Thanks, Keith

First off I'm glad to hear you're OK. In sweden they have specific testing for running straight into a standing moose, but that wouldn't have helped you here. Anyhow, I think in your situation the fact that the aig bags didn't go off is a good thing, and since the moose hit you it makes sense. First off, the air bags go off when they sense a frontal impact. This was a side impact and therefore it makes sense that they didn't go off. BUT, the fact that they didn't go off probably saved your life. Since you weren't wearing a seat belt you were thrown around the car. If you would have been thrown at the steering wheel at 60mph to be greeted by an exploding airbag it would have killed you. That is why there are warnings all over a new car about wearing a seatbelt in a car with airbags. Still glad you made it out! They always say Don't hit a Moose, you'll only make him angry! Keith

Can you give us a little more info on the car and the noise? How many miles? Is the car down on power? Is it a deep sounding clack or a light sounding clack? When the noise gets quiter does the power increase at all? Keith

Thanks guys. So for a set in decent shape with non working seat belts $75-$100 is reasonable? Keith

Is there a difference, and how can someone who has never seen them installed in a brat before tell the difference? Also, how much should you pay for a decent set? Keith

How does it start when the engine is already hot? A common problem with these is the coolant temp sensor. My would do the same thing once in a while, but the big thing mine did was flood the engine when trying to start an already hot engine. This is because the computer thinks its cold. Keith

It's just a reduction gear and I don't think it's a problem running to red line in low. I use mine all the time in the RX. I ran an entire rally cross using low range with 2nd and 3rd gears. It put the car in the right RPM range for max power coming out of turns. I sometime use it to pass on a back road instead of say downshifting all the way to third. Atleast in the RX it comes in handy for things other than creaping. Keith