TomRhere

PM sent.

I'll try to get a pic of it, have to borrow a camera. It's in good condition, but has been painted Yellow. I could squirt some Black on it though...

Ask the DMV about abandoned vehicle(s) and try getting a Title that way. Haven't done so in a number of years, but I have bought a few vehicles doing that. A repair shop can file for an abandoned vehicle title (here in Michigan), if said vehicle has sat on their property for a specific amount of time with no contact from owner. This one definetly fits the bill on the time spent sitting. Worth the call atleast.

I have a grille here off an '85 GL. Need a grille to fit my '88 GL. Want to trade?

EA81 oil dipstick is on the Left rear of engine as you look at it. Just behind the airfilter. I don't see it in the above pic, so thinking the handle has broke off.

WOW!! Talk about taking ones time doing stuff.. Work had kept me from doing much of anything on this here Wagon, but we're back on normal 8 hour days again. Took me some vacation time as of last Wednesday, for a nice long 5 day weekend. Spent most of it out there wrenching... The engine is now sporting the EA82 SPFI system. Pulled the front seats, console out so I could do a good carpet cleaning. Re-bushed the XT6 shifter and installed it. Driveshaft is in, but rear diff is not. Was swapping in a LSD chunk when I found bad bearings on it. So,,,, more money needed. Re-installed the front body components that Bob had removed. Radiator and fan is in and all hooked up. Made adapter plugs to fit the trans and body wiring. Got the CD player ready to be installed. Rigged the aftermarket fuel pump from the XT6 in. Pump is running, but doesn't seem to be moving fuel. Need to look into that...... Lots more to go yet, but,,,,, IT RUNS !!!!!! Fired it up yesterday using starting fluid. Didn't run it long as I need to get coolant in it. Just wanted to see if it would start up. Need to look into why the windshield wipers want to cycle each time the key is turned on. It's probally the motor itself, as they stop where ever they happen to be when the key is turned off. Got a few things to purchase yet, but I gained alot these past few days.

Been a couple days now, so I hope this isn't to late for you. But I took the liberty of drawing on the above pic, as to how the lines are ran for thr seperator and carb.

Yep, 12 volts to the small terminal on the starter. I have an old beat-up screwdriver I use for jumping the starter connections. Just slide the boot off the main battery cable, lay screwdriver blade against it and touch the smaller terminal. Check the tightness of fit on that small terminal on the starter also. I've had a few of them that were somewhat loose fitting. That,, could cause a loss of power to the starter solenoid.

I'm totally convinced it's the switch on mine. I've already bypassed the overheated connector for it. When it does it, a slight twist towards "RUN" position gets it cranking again. Been a couple years since I've had an XT6, so can't really recall how things are on one. But you could pull the lower dash trim and locate the switch connections, un-plug them and see if there is any evidence of the terminals getting hot. Melted or discolored plastic is what you'd be looking for. As for a quick test of switch and wiring to the starter issue. Turn the key to the "RUN" position, pop the hood and jump the terminals at the starter (make sure trans is in neutral)... That would tell you whether or not the engine will actually crank over long enough to actually run. Hopefully, it does so.. You may need to wire up a relay for the starter circuit, if the above gets it running. That "FIX" has been covered on here a few times, but I can give you the "How-to" if you need it.

The hose from the top of the seperator Tee's into the fuel return line coming from the carb, goes back to the fuel tank.

My '85 BRAT does simular on occasions. I'm convinced that it's the whole ignition assembly on the steering column, and it's wearing out. I have to work the key to find the "right area" in order to turn it. It will also stop cranking the starter if I turn it to far while trying to start it. When that happens, all dash lights go out until I twist the key back slightly. May be what is happening on yours. I had another BRAT where I pulled the switch itself off the column after Del tried using the wrong key and jammed the key in the lock. I used a screwdriver to work the switch, and you can turn it to far while cranking, losing all functions.

Actually, Fog Lights should be Yellow. Helps cut the reflected light (back at the driver) down better than what a White Light does.

I have the wiring diagram. Email me at tomrhere (at) yahoo (dot) com, and I'll send them to you. Put BRAT wiring in the subject line.

Ok, not sure on where the electrical connections are on anything other than a BRAT. But,,, Check your connections at the sending unit, you may find them corroded... Have had that same issue you describe happen on a few of mine.. On the BRAT's, they are located on the back of the tank, other EA81's could be in the same area.. I can't say for sure, as I've only owned BRAT's..

+1

Thinking it's not a "need to do it" thing with moving the Hill-Holder valve, it just leaves more room around the disty. Person that swapped the EA82 into my '82, just unbolted the HH and left it hanging. I removed it when I pulled the engine for a reseal. But I did play around with it's actuall fit with it installed, both Factory and relocated.

Ran an EA82 in my '82 BRAT, it was in it when I bought it. There is about 3/8" of clearance from the valve covers to the frame rails. A bit tighter on the driver's side near the disty. But it will fit. You need to lengthen the EA82 disty wires to the coil, but that's the only wiring on the engine you have to change. If you go with the EA82's 5-speed trans, you have to adapt it's wiring to the BRAT. I have that info around here,,,, somewhere. If you keep the Hill-Holder, you need to move it towards the firewall the distance of it's mounting holes. This is to clear the disty. You can remove the HH and install a "Tee" fitting in the lines also. I know the EA82's lower radiator hose fits the upper return to the EA81's radiator with some trimming. Not sure on a lower hose though, as mine had the EA82 radiator adapted in. I would also leave the waterpump mounted fan off, and install another electric fan. The WP mounted one is to close to the radiator for my liking.

Any chance of being able to use a steam cleaner? Really would be the best way to clean it for any painting. Loved being able to do that with auto parts when I was in the Marines, eons ago....

Turn on the Emergency Flashers. Are the dash indicators lighting up? If they don't, a connector has came loose. Most likely on the back of the dash unit itself. I don't recall at the moment just how the dash indicator lights affect turnsignal operation. But they do have an impact on how the system works.

Having the wrong lamp in the brake/tail socket can very well cause all of those issues.

That,,,, may be your issue. If just the front was lifted, it negated the "Factory angle setting". It really doesn't take much of a change in angle to "adjust" it's operation,,, from what I've read on it anyways. I would pull the rear bolt, find one a tad longer, (if needed), then stuff a couple of flat washers under the mount bracket at the rear. One may be way more than enough though.

I can see the spring was on the HH when the pic was taken. Is it still there? The spring holds it in the open position for normal brake operation. One can adjust the angle that the HH operates at by placing shim(s) under either of the mounting bolts. Thinking I would remove the rear bolt and bend the bracket to give it a more nose down stance, just to see if it helps any. And yeah, I would definetly swap a Tee fitting in there myself. Done it to a few of mine.

The hose you're holding onto goes on the forward fitting of the aircleaner and hangs down freely. The hose you now have on the front, should go to the ASV silencer. Follow the metal tube from the underside of the head and you will see the ASV. The silencer should be right there also. You may have to move the attached hose from the valve cover over to the middle fitting on the aircleaner to attach the hose.

You can use ATF in the Cybrid System. Someone on the XT6 site has been running it for a year or two with no issues. I tried using the XT6 crossmember in the '88 Wagon. I did have to drill mount holes as you mentioned. I flipped the EA82 one over ontop of the XT6 one, aligned the lower control arm pivot points and the holes for mounting to the frame rails, then drilled the others. After getting everything bolted into the Wagon, I discovered that the slots for the motor mounts were to far forward. Didn't dive into checking out things any further and swapped the XT6 rack and LCA's over to the EA82 member. When I was doing all of this work, I was sortta pressed for time to get the Wagon drivable. That was main reason for not digging into why/what was issue with the XT6 crossmember. Now, the project is "On Hold" and I would have the time to do so, but engine is in now and I don't feel like pulling it all out now.

No PM from you yet.... May have to do with your post count. You can email your info to me. Use my screen name on here and add, at yahoo dot com. Put hill holder in the subject line.