TomRhere

Possibility of the Hi/Low selector being between gears also..

In the 2nd pic, you need to put that hose back on the fitting. Hose is right under it.

For the dim lighting issue; I would check the main body ground. Small gage wire coming from the battery - cable end. Make sure there is a good clean connection where it attaches to the body. Also clean the connections at the battery and where the negative cable is bolted to the engine block.

The threads in the engine case are deeper than the tensioner bolts are long. Therefore, you can get a longer bolt in the threaded hole. Something like a 1/4" longer than what is from the Factory will do you good.

I have most of the parts needed for you to swap it to 5-speed FWD. Trans/shifter, flywheel/clutch assembly, pedalbox, starter. Should have clutch cable too. You'd have to source the proper center console for it though. And for the right amount of cash, I could be talked out of the Weber carb, mounted on an EA82 intake already to go.

Welcome....

When you do that 45* angle thing with the car, set your engine to the T-belt timing marks also. That will put the pistons at the center of the stroke, giving you more area for the liquid.

Yep, it's in the alt on that one.

Nice BRAT!!!!!! Sounds likee you experienced typical torque bind in 4WD. You shouldn't use it on dry pavement especially turning corners. It can be done, if you drive with the tires on one side in loose stuff on the shoulder of the road occassionally. There is no "center diff" in the trans, so front and rear are "locked" together.

Your 205/60/15 is about 24.5 inches, a 215/75/15 is 27.6 inches, 225/70/15 is 27.4 inches.

Issues I've had with my BRAT's and their rear lighting has been the connection found behind the rear side panel on Passengerside of the bed. Can also be reached by removing the light assembly. May want to check the Driverside connectors too. I've had the wires break, or corrode off, on more then one BRAT.

Some relays use the power feed to the relay's coil for the Common between the switched contacts. Rewire your temporyary wiring that made the relay click. Take a test light and attach one end to the Battery - you have on the relay, Touch other end of test light to each of the unused terminals to see if one will light the test light.

That is how they are. Just looked under both of my BRAT's, and they look identicle to that pic.

Thanks. I knew the EA82's had different setups, wasn't real sure on the EA81's

Just wondering if there's different bracketry for mounting the compressor, besides the difference in what make it is. Got an '85 BRAT with A/C mounted outboard of altenator. Seen a few pics on here of simular set up. Are they all that way? Got an idea churning in the grey matter, and I'm curious about the brackets.

Just a thought here; What about a short section of driveshaft with flanges on both ends, bolted to the diff. Something like. l=l , then the proper length driveshaft.

On the '88 GL Wagon I have, I ran new speaker wire to where the Factory connectors are feeding out to each door speaker. Didn't feel like fishing the new wire thru each of the flex tubes going to the doors. Cut needed connectors from an old harness I had, and solder/heat shrinked them onto the new speaker wires. Front connectors are behind the kickpanels on each side. "T" shaped, Blue & White wires, Thinking they are Pink in color but not 100% right now. Rear connectors are under the frontdoor sillplate trim and the plastic shield found there. White connectors, Blue & White wires on the door side. When I installed the new speakers, I cut the wires from the old ones and soldered those to the speakers

You truly do some amazing work!!!! Need your addy, going to send you 2 of my BRAT's for a rework.

If you're having difficulty reaching the plug hole to feel for compression on #1 cylinder, try this... Put the plug back in #1 and pull the other 3 plugs, then turn the crank. You will definetly feel when #1 comes up on compression.

4WD EA82 rears are a direct swap onto an EA81. Grab the backing plates too, as you do need them.

'94-'95 FWD 5-speed Imp axles are what you need. Atleast that's what I've read on here... Need to get some myself to install the D/R 5-speed, but I'm going to run the XT6 trans for the time being. EDIT: Seems the above info is wrong. I apparently wrote it down wrong when I was digging thru threads looking for the info myself. Appology offered...

Think I would start with pulling the sparkplugs, see if it will turn over then. Could've had an intake gasket fail, filling cylinder with coolant. If that doesn't let it turn, then I'd go about sliding the engine forward enough to check the pressure plate bolts. There is an outside chance that one of the timing belts snapped, and has wrap itself up enough to lock the crank. Quick & easy check there.

http://subarubrat.com/frntshk.htm

http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/htkysa/htkysa.htm

You may find needed parts thru this link, http://www.car-part.com/