TomRhere

Welcome aboard ! Nice looking '82. Like the color of it... Have one myself, Black with Gray interior. Rear bumper is "BRAT only" to clear the tailgate when it's down. So keep that in mind when searching for a replacement. Hard to tell from the pics, but thinking I would see about straightening it, but that's just me... Trim piece for the top of the tailgate is sort of a "hard to find" piece.

The fan circuit gounds thru the thermo-switch, radiator, vehicle body, back to battery. With the key "on", unplug the wire to the thermo-switch and use a length of wire to run it back to battery -, fan should run. Providing the fuse is good... Check to make sure the short jumper wire from the top of the radiator frame to radiator support is there, and that it has good clean connections on both ends. Jumper wire should be about 8" to the left of the hood latch as you look at it from the front. If both of the above are good, the thermo-switch itself is possibly bad. Rockauto has them listed on their site.

The gargling/gurgling sound is indicating that you have an air pocket in the heater core. Need to burp that out.

It's shown in the link below. You may want to bookmark the page for future reference. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/heatercore/heatercore.html

Idealy, one would want to put the pieces back where they came from, just to keep the wear patterns between parts the same. But with that said, it really doesn't matter that much on a daily driver. It isn't going to cause any "great catastrophy" under the hood.

Welcome aboard!!!

Only things I can think of right at the moment are; clogged heater core, shut-off valve not opening.

Some of the wiring will stay with the car, unless you want to swap wiring harness, as most of that was wired for all options in most Subarus. Not going to go back to check pics, so do you have CC buttons in the steeringwheel? That would be "Factory" installed CC. CC "on" switch should be on the dash, I think...... A seperate stalk lever on the steering column with the "set, resume, decel" controls would be "add on". That,, could actually be removed, and different trim installed. Both myy '85, and the White '86 BRAT had CC. But everything was under the dash except the stalk switch on the column. Nothing under the hood except the vac line going to the manifold. Neither worked, and I couldn't/haven't found much info on troubleshooting that type.

Rear brakes most likely need adjusting. But,,, you'll find the adjusters are froze up. Rockauto lists them for the EA81's, and the EA82 FWD ones are the same. Atleast going by Son's '88 GL10 FWD Wagon they are. Good to see you have it on the road. Here's hoping your Inspection goes well.

It's vapor seperator. Takes the vapors from the tank and allows the fuel to drain back. It's tied into the loop of line just in front of the tank, and also helps the tank breath thru that 2-way valve in that loop.

Not really... Just have what good I could keep from 2 rusted out BRAT's. 1 rusted out XT6, and 1 parts XT6. Plus some other goodies I've picked up. Oh!! In my rumaging around out in the garage today, I found a good hood release cable.

8-7/8" is correct. As for the bad radiator support, I have one here I cut out of an '86 BRAT. Would have to get it out of the rafters to give it another look, but pretty sure it was in good shape. I also have the hood from said BRAT. I'll see if I can borrow a camera, get some pics of them.

Have 2 sets of the H-rims here, and they looked good on the '85 BRAT. As for blasting them, you would want to use glass beads or crushed walnut shells. Gives better finish to aluminum then sand does. But in saying that, I spent yesterday sand blasting the XT6 Motion wheels. Borrowed the cabinet from work, and had to go with what was in it.

Headlight circuits are grounded thru the switch, so I would look at the wiring to the switch. Had simular problem in the '85 BRAT. No headlights at all, but could "Flash" the hi-beams. Found bad connection leading to switch.

GD speaks the truth on need of "proper tools". I have access to what I need. Well, other then the 30 years younger eyeballs...... Magnifing glasses are an "old mans" Godsend.....:-p

I used to repair some of the control boards at the previous work place. I could give it a try.

They use the same bearing, 6202-2RS

EA81 heads can be removed with the engine in the vehicle. There's a couple holes in the framerails to allow removal of the rocker assembly mounting bolts once they are unscrewed. Believe I removed the pushrods using those holes also. Been a few years.... Use Felpro Perma-Torque head gaskets, no need to do the re-torque with them. Factory only for the intake and exhaust gaskets. Buy either a Haynes or Chiltons manual for your vehicle. Has all of the info you need for torque specs and what not.

quote: What do you guys use to push those things out when you don't have the proper tool? end quote.. I have used the shank of a Phillips screwdriver which I hacksawed the "point" off of.

Borrowed your pic Tom. Found out today, that my '85 BRAT tank is leaking where the fill hose goes in. :-\ http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z146/1992Roo/Safariwagon-III/GLTank005.jpg

I posted this in an earlier posting, but: I had a tank shipped to me from out West by a Member on here. Cost thru the USPS was just under $40.00 then, probally a bit more now to ship one. Home-made packaging, using plastic, carpeting, and cardboard. No smell of gas, be it old or fresh. Not sure how he did that... Really thinking he didn't tell them what the "box" contained.... But,,,,,,,,,, I'm really thinking though that one could flush the tank out, maybe soap/water would work. ??? Don't know for sure on that. Then, flow some air thru it from a hose hooked to an air compressor for an undetermined amount of time. Followed by a flush with a hose hooked to a nitrogen tank for the same undetermined amount of time, sealing up all openings afterwards.

It cost me $40.00 to have a tank sent here from out West thru USPS. The torsion bars are in the crosstube. The outer swing arm is splined to them.

No like seeing that. But do feel your pain...... But it does look like a "centered" hit. Fenders look good, headlight trim looks intact. Hood, and radiator support took most of the hit, along with the grille. Radiator support can be straightened, grille and hood can be replaced. A/C condensor may/may not be damaged.