TomRhere

Oil pressure reading at or near "0", warm engine idle, is normal for the stock gauge setup. Even says that in the Owners Manual. A mechanical gauge would give you a more proper reading. Check the connectors for the sending unit on the gas tank. Corrosion has been my issue with those. All 5 of the BRATs I've had here varied where the fan would come on in relation to temp gauge reading. Again, stock gauges aren't all that acurate. The White '86 never went over the 1/2 mark, while the '85 runs at or just above the 1/2 mark. Both had all new cooling system parts installed.

Ok. Scrapping a '92 Loyale Wagon. Would like to keep the back windows, both the rear side ones and the rear hatch/door/tailgate one. How/where do I start to work the seals out? Seals are still plyable, and I have worked my fingers all around them, both pulling them loose from the glass and from the body. Just not real sure where to start to work the seal out of the body opening. I have installed windows before, just never had to actually remove a "good pane". Pointers are really needed here.

Haven't really figured mileage in a bit, but I'm around the 26-27 range. 5 gallons of gas will get me 2-1/2 round trips to work/home, a tick over 64 miles per round trip. My tank has decided to leak if I do more than 1/2 tank, so I just do 5 gallons at a time, waiting for the "low fuel" light to come on before I stop for more. I did, (but not by choice), do 157 miles on something between 5-6 gallons. Can't say for sure what was in the tank, but I put 5.2 gallons in, reset tripmeter. Low fuel light came on with some 28 miles to go to get home. Only station between there and the house was closed. Was already showing some 130 miles driven since last gas.

Thanks to both of you for the info. Was really hoping I didn't have to swap dash wiring over. Only noticable difference between the two so-far.... Is steeringwheel slipring. The '88 has provision for in-wheel CC controls,(not equipped though), the '92 doesn't. No biggie there, I can swap that stuff easily... I will be swapping the '88s cluster over though, just to keep mileage correct.

Curious as to how much changed (if any) between them. Have the '88 GL slated as my next DD. The '92 Loyale is parts donor, engine/trans, interior, power locks/windows type stuff. Body is toast. Will I be able to just do a Plug-N-Play with things like the engine, dash as a whole assembly, heater and A/C parts? Or,,, am I going to need to swap my dash wiring/cluster over to the '92 dash? engine wiring different enough to warrant swapping harness and ECU? Interior of the '92 is in way better shape than the '88 is. Wanting to swap most of it over. Not going to use the auto seatbelts though.

Spent the weekend stripping the '92 Loyale down. Engine out, front is tore down to unibody, doors off, 45% of interior is out. Basically anything that could be removed without it being off the tires yet. Need to get someone over here to evacuate the R-12 in the A/C system, and that will be coming out next. Was real surprized with a lot of the bolts actually breaking loose/turning out instead of just breaking off. But I ain't complaining any....

Many eons have passed since I've been there... Spark knock is most likely the vac advance isn't working.

Try the "Help" displays at a few of your local parts stores. You may find one there. If the counterperson is any good, they could find one for you. Most have a "small parts" area with drawers full of different items. Atleast a few of the "been here forever" stores that are around me do. Hardware store is another place to check. Can't recall having any issue with that drain plug leaking on any of mine. And I have pulled/installed them many times.

Nice Wagon... There's a wiring connector under the driver seat. You could try un-plugging/re-connecting it to clear the seatbelt light. Could be just a dirty/corroded connection. Other causes are possible, but that's an easy "try". Issue with powerwindows could be lack of lubricant in the tracts. Diligent applicantion of some White Lithium spray may help there.

To solve the cross-over issue, go with the '84 Model for parts ordering. A lot of Supplier's have inaccurate info for the years that the EA81 and EA82 ran together. No major changes were done to the EA81 engine/body during that time frame, so all gaskets, and what have you, fit properlly

The FSM calls it out as "The rear crossmember". Atleast the FSM for '88 XT6 does.

She do look good.......... Have to give the rear doors of the '92 a good look over. They may be salvageable, but I really haven't paid attention to them.

I would go with different hood. Not easy to get the framework out of one with all of the bonding goo that's used. I have attempted that, once... Nice work done to it sofar though....

Mag lugs require a rim depth of atleast 1/2" as they have a shank area to center the rim to the lug, VS the chamfer of a standard lug. Clamp force is from the shoulder below the nut-hex

Strong, the Force is in this one. Yes!!!

Iff your rear tire looks like this, on either side. It be the crosstube failed. Link didn't work, so we do the direct approach..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=324&pictureid=3608

Some pics of the parts wagon, http://s29.beta.photobucket.com/user/TomRhere/library/88%20GL%20Wagon#/user/TomRhere/library/92%20Loyale%20Wagon?&_suid=1361172922590027077789581999484

Atlast,,, we have pics. http://s29.beta.photobucket.com/user/TomRhere/library/88%20GL%20Wagon#/user/TomRhere/library/88%20GL%20Wagon?&_suid=1361172922590027077789581999484

Does now... even has the XT6 trans in it. For the time being.... 4 attempts tonight to upload pics either here or photobucket has failed. Previous pic is only one to go thru. Grrrrrrrr......

You need an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. Flex the joint sideways, cut thru each of the cross's of the u-joint. Then drive each of the bearing caps inwards. New joints clips will go on the inside of the yokes. Sounds harder than it is.... edit; There may be a need to debur a spot or two in the yokes. Some I've had to, others not.

Got a can of Seafoam in the tank, less than 1/4 showing on gauge. Haven't put any in the oil yet... Uploading pics to my photobucket as I type this. Both of the '88 and of the '92 Loyale parts Wagon. Will post links when everything is done..... Trying to attach a teaser pic at this time, :popcorn:

Still not on the road. But,,,,,,,, I have; done a rough frontend alignment, sandblasted the rims, and painted them, stretched the tires over the rims, with new valve stems, and inflated them, mounted them on the Wagon, tightened the stub axle bolts on the rear diff, installed axles, filled the diff with slippery stuff, got her down off the jackstands. Fired her up, backed her out of the garage. Took the garden hose and sprayed off 16 months worth of dust... She looks good sitting out in the driveway now. Really thinking that I'm going to pull the EA81 out, and put the EA82 from the '92 Loyale parts Wagon back in it's place. There is definetly something amiss inside the engine..... Besides the knock I can't locate source of, there seems to be issues with the valves sticking. Idle quality sucks, it's all over the place, and will drrop down enough that the engine dies.. Pretty sure it's not from a vac leak as I've checked every vac line, and intake manifold gasket or fitting. There's a putt,putt,putt from the exhaust that shouldn't be there. And if I hold a piece of paper up to the tailpipe, it draws the paper into the pipe each time one of the putts happen, that be a sticky valve or two.... If I can figure out the source of the knock noise, maybe I'll leave the engine in and drive it a bit, just to see if things clear up. It has sat for some 7 years now, so,,,,,,???? But, she runs, and can be driven around the yard.

I "think",,, it's to stir the coolant under the T-stat somewhat as the engine warms up. Only reason for that thought is where the T-stat is located, it's not really in a "coolant flow" position on a "cold" engine. So it would take a somewhat longer amount of time for the T-stat to "feel" any heat. But that's just my thinking...... With that said,, I have pulled the nipple out of the housing and plugged the hole, and plugged off the one on the manifold on 2 EA82 manifolds I've swapped onto EA81 engines. Haven't noticeed any detremental effects from doing that. But,,, you should be able to buy some 1/4" coolant hose from a local parts store to replace it with.

Yeah, the weather is nuts right now..... Depending on what else I'm doing, I either have the front up on jackstands or ramps when working on the cooling system. Seems to help get all the air out when re-filling. I also leave the cap off until the engine gets fully warmed up.

Welcome aboard ! Always nice to see another BRAT on here. When you fix the rear wheelwells, box-in the shock mounts. That will help to keep rust from returning.