TomRhere

TrailBlazer, and it has the I-6. Engine sounds good, no issues there. Do believe it's time for serpentine belt, tensioner, idler replacement though. Got some squeal on 1st start. Put some 600+ miles on it since I picked it up. I'm quite "Happy" with it. This thread has gone way off topic. But Hey,,, it's "My Thread" and I started the off topic ranting. So all is good.

According to the accident report I just received; this "is not" a deployed air bag Sort of looks deployed to me..

I recall reading about this on here, but can't remember who or when.

Ouch!! I've had similar foot injuries. I know how you feel. Speedy recovery my friend.

Yes. Swapping between manual/electric is doable as far as the operational mechanisms go. Everything bolts in. You will have to play with the various adjustments to get window to operate smoothly, but that's more "time consuming" than difficult

After much searching around the components, I found my issue to be the back of the control itself. Was cracked in a few places. Would work as it should if I left it loose at mounting screws what hold it to the dash. Tighten those down, it no work. Can't say there was vacuum leak noise as it has been a few years back.

I would check for worn-out/broken trans mounts 1st.

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/TomRhere/slideshow/07%20%20HHR Pics of the HHR taken today, 03/03/16

I wish!! Way out of my budget range though. Settled for an '08 Chevy TrailBlazer. Shade over 103, 400 miles, for under $9,730 USD. Spent the day running between Dealer and Credit Union, but it's mine now. Pick it up in the morning. Couldn't figure how to get 2 vehicles some 40 miles home all by myself.

Thanks Guys. Not sure as to what yet to replace HHR. She wants SUV type vehicle. I want a truck. We shall see. Been surfing the web looking, just haven't made a pick yet.

"OFF TOPIC" Our '07 HHR is no more. On my way home from work tonight, had an oncoming pickup truck lose it and come into my lane. Nothing I could do. Radiator/AC condenser is sitting atop the engine. Hood is basically sitting in the windshield. I'm OK, albeit a bit sore. Belt burns across the hip area, sternum hurts some also from the shoulder belt. Have a couple pics, but my dumb-fone can't upload to the web. It will be blamed on icy/snow cover road conditions. But it was Dumb Arsed Driver what was driving to fast for conditions as to the cause.

Yeah, was told that on the XT6 Board. The '88 XT6 I had at the time had some serious TOD happening, and I happened to have a "New" EA82 pump ready to go. So asked the question, received said answer. Maybe it was due to volume difference, don't know, didn't get definitive answer if I remember it right. And yes, higher oil flow volume is a good thing. Increase in pressure would also be a good thing. Takes me back to the days of the "Muscle Car" era. Guys were always arguing about "higher flow" or "more pressure" as to what is better for an engine. I say "Both". One can increase volume and pressure, but there is a trade-off limit, as to one or the other. Same goes with torque and horsepower. You can build both, but have to decide which one will be the leading goal. Thinking higher volume will do both the bearings and those finicky HLA's happy, especially if I can up the pressure slightly.

More time spent working on the engine over the weekend. Both heads are complete and installed now. Hunted for better part of an hour for my can of anti-seize with no luck. WTH!!!! Hasn't been that long since I used it last, 1st part of February. So where the heck is it??? Someone absconded it is all I can think of. Did manage to find enough of those little packs of anti-seize one gets with various parts, to get the head bolts coated and torqued down. But couldn't do any more assembly work. Got to looking at the different EA82 oil pumps I have, just checking them for wear and what not. Also looked over the ER27 oil pump I recently pulled off one of them I have here. Asked years ago if EA82/ER27 oil pumps were interchangeable. Answer was NO. They have the same bolt pattern, different size belt pulley. But the real difference is the actual pumping pieces themselves. Always thought the ER27 pump should have more volume than the EA82 pump, and it does. ER27 in fore ground, EA82 in back ground. See the difference? The ER27's rotor is thicker, hence more volume. This is a good thing.. Once again, both pumps, but a closer view. Notice the lack of O-ring on the ER27 pump. That is how they got the extra volume capacity for the ER27 pump. Shave the housing down, make thicker rotor and related parts. I test fitted the outer rotor in a few different EA82 blocks, and it sits at the same measurement in those as it does in the ER27 block. This tells me that it will, or should, work. Thinking I shall reseal the ER27 pump and use it on this here EA82. Maybe look at increasing the pressure a bit also.

If I'm reading that right, both cam dots are up. That is the problem. One dot up, other dot down. Follow what markjw posted about T-belt install. Disty timing has different marks on the flywheel marked off with degrees.

A few pics of EA82 heads with those casting holes in them. I have these here in my possession. These are EA82 SPFI heads, I believe are off the '92 Wagons engine. Also note; that in the 1st pic, the EA82 marking is underlined. I thought that was only for MPFI/Turbo heads. edit: This is a top few of same heads. end edit:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150559-brand-new-ea82t-gen3-heads-what-are-these-worth/ Some pics in this thread.

I have seen pics on here of heads with those holes in them. I'll try to locate and post them.

Been a bit of a chore in finding sandpaper with paper backing instead of plastic. Places I've stopped at either didn't have anything but plastic backed, or they were out of the paper backed stuff. But, I finally found some yesterday, and bought all they had. Which,, wasn't all that much. 2 packs each of 220 and 320 grit, 6 small sheets each pack. Took 4 sheets to get a proper sized sanding area. Gave each head a lap dance with both grits until the grain wore enough that it wasn't removing any more material. Still have a bit of the fire ring to remove, but they're looking good so far. Opted to go with the above pictured heads, as the cracks in them isn't all that bad in my opinion. Got the new valves all unpacked, and gave them a lap dance also. Looking good.. Be heading out to garage in a bit to clean everything up, and start reassembling the heads. I'll try to remember to take the camera with me. Contact cement, WD40, and Brake Cleaner spray makes for some rather potent fumes. Good thing yesterday was a nice 58*F so I could have the garage door open. No way I could have ran the heater.

I agree. To much for a 2WD. A clean CarFax really don't mean squat on a 30+ year old vehicle. They haven't been around that long, and don't dig back thru any records of the vehicles V.I.N., prior to a few years before they started the reporting of vehicle info. And that info given, is only if the vehicles V.I.N. was recorded with a business that would report it to CarFax.

Yeah, crank seal or oil pressure sender leakage will cover the bottom of the engine. Pressure sender will leak where the screw that holds the wire attaches. Just not a good seal between housing and screw portion. Why, I no not. Crank gets worn down where the seal rides, creating a groove, that the seal can no longer seal. New seal is a temporary fix, as it can't maintain good sealing contact on the crank. Fix for that is a redi-seal, or shaft sleeve. They slip over the shaft to give a new area for seal to ride. Timken #'s; Front KWK99147 Rear KWK99298 National #'s; Front 99147 Rear 99298

I have quite a few headlight fixture/assemblies here. Differences of where the adjuster screws are located, so would need measurements on what you have, to see if I can be of help.

Hope it's the issue. Gotta love easy fixes......

An EJ swap will require wiring changes. Has been done by Members on here, so there is knowledge to be found on the details. I suggest doing a leak-down test on your ER engine to determine if it's rings or valves causing the low compression. If it's due to the valves, or even the cams, I have heads and cams available. Can't say they're top shape, but engine ran good. I pulled engine from a parts car, tore engine down for various parts needed. Stuff is just sitting here, taking up space. Also have another complete engine, but shipping that to you would be costly.

Just checked the pics in your other thread. Looks like they used the Hitachi cable pivot on the Weber. I've had issues using that on mine. Barrel on end of cable would catch on the choke linkage. Thinking it was the choke linkage, it's been a few years. But it's toward the front of the Weber, right next to where the cable attachment is. If that is the issue. Remove the pivot from the carb and put a couple flat washers on the throttle shaft, then replace the pivot.