TomRhere

Faces out.

Possible broke timing belt. Possible screw for the rotor came out.

Welcome to the Board. Here's a link for the ECU codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47526-subaru-ecu-codes-for-1983-1988/ Even though it doesn't list your cars year, it will work. All SPFI use same codes.

Isn't the '84 Auto Models when Subaru started the Hydraulic Lifters, with Manuals having Solid Lifters still? If so, the valve covers would have the "Do not adjust" sticker on them.

Would it be whether the engine has a standard intake manifold vs. a Spider intake manifold? Only ask due to only seeing one EA82T engine myself, but have seen a N/A EA82 engine with Spider intake what had the harmonic balancer crank pulley on it. Timing belt cover had the timing marks on it also. Just like the ER27 6 cylinder engines do in the XT6's. I can definitely see how the Spider intake would obscure viewing the flywheel timing marks with how the air intake snorkel is routed. Therefore, Subaru put the timing marks on the crank pulley. Now as to the why of the damper in the crank pulley between the intake types is still up for debate.

The EA81 gas tanks, and EA82 gas tanks are completely different and will not interchange.

That seal is to help keep moisture out of the cap. Not a real need it item unless you're driving thru unplowed deep snow, as I attempted to do once. Kept a can of wire dry spray in the BRAT after that. The fact that it won't start unless the choke is held shut = a fuel delivery issue in the carb itself. I would suspect the float, needle valve and seat being main issue(s).

All the decal means is that the main wiring harness and the heater controls are A/C ready. You need the compressor, it's mount bracket, drive belt, condenser, evaporator, drier, all of the lines, relays, another electric fan. You will need to pull the dash unit loose to install the evaporator housing. There's a flex tube between blower housing and heater core housing. That comes out and evaporator unit goes in it's place.

If you have the cork gasket already, coat it with Permatex Ultra Black and let it cure before you install the pan and gasket. You're basically turning the cork gasket into a rubber gasket, so to speak. Also allows one to remove the pan if need be, without damaging the gasket. And it can be reinstalled with another smear of the goo.

A mirror small enough to fit thru the access hole may be of help.

I'm the one what sent him the files he used to adjust the valve lash for the Hydro engine. Info is straight out of the FSM files. He disturbed the Factory settings, and now has to "play around" with the adjustments. If you replace heads, have them milled, what have you,,, you need to adjust the hydro lifters.

Really don't have much to offer as far as "do this" goes. Only had the files I sent you due to swapping heads on one of my BRATs and figured I needed to do a valve adjustment. Asked for and received the files I sent you. Thinking though, that I would let it idle for a bit, then repeat the procedure. Possibly do a "repeat as needed" thing to quite the one(s) that still want to sound off. Thinking I had to do that due to one still wanting to rattle a bit. Been a few years, so really not sure on that.

Yellow marked items can be removed, as well both items the Pink traced hose connects to. All part of AC system. Red traced hose needs to stay. It supplies vacuum to the mode selector of the heater system. Defrost/Heat/Vent settings.

Valve stem seals can be installed on the exhaust valves with no issues. Those should have a Black spring on them vs. the Silver spring for the intake ones. I would lay money down on the oil rings being seized up, as to cause of smoke-screen. Tore down a few engines here lately, in search of some good pistons. All had seized oil rings.

The EA81 Hatch was sold here in the USDM thru 1989. BRATs thru 1987. Best way to insure correct parts purchase is to go with the 1984 Model year.

I would check the motor and trans mounts.

I can so relate to that!!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158032-1986-gl-carbureted-to-1988-spfi-plug-and-play/ Similar Thread. Maybe they could help you with sorting out the wiring.

I would do the dye anyways. You have it already, so it's not an extra cost.

The drip-points shown are just the lowest spot that coolant will run to before it grips off. I don't recall the name of the stuff at the moment, but there's a dye you can put in the cooling system that shows up under a Black Light.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141568-iding-ea82-blocks/ Go to post 30 in that thread. GLoyale posted some interesting info in there.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158145-gas-tank-pressurizing-after-charcoal-cannister-removal-ea82t/ That thread has diagram of the SPFI/Turbo evap canister plumbing. Don't know EJ swap stuff, but you should be able to hook it up to the EJ's purge solenoid.

Do you know what the system was recharged with, R12 or R184a? I haven't done a conversion on an AC system yet, so can't tell you what to look for. Do know the schrader valves for filling are different. Also, with the damage to the condenser, it may have vented itself.

Did same on my 1st ever "drill out the broken intake bolt" on a Subaru engine. I'd replace the bolt. You have removed a good portion of it's meat so to speak.

The headlight assemblies all physically fit between body styles. But there is a difference in location of the horizontal adjustment screw. Not really a big issue though. One would have to remove the grille piece to access the adjuster is all.