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TomRhere

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Everything posted by TomRhere

  1. TomRhere
    If that harness is the one you got from me, it's from a '92 Loyale GL Wagon PB4WD/5-speed. I don't see Subaru making any harness changes with the Loyale line on it's way out of production, but it is possible. Did you do anything with the plugs of the harness to the 4 relays under the dash? There's Left & Right headlight relays, Fuel pump relay, Ignition relay. Would be easy to mix up one of those plugs. One of the headlight relays controls power for dash/running lights, but I don't recall which. I don't have much for wiring diagrams, just the Haynes Manual.
  2. TomRhere
    Got some pics. PM me an email addy and I'll send them to you.
  3. TomRhere
    The 1st Gen's are narrower than the 2nd Gen's, so the EA82 won't fit between frame rails. Had an EA82 in my '82 BRAT, only 3/8" between cam cover and frame rail. Your best bet for an easy swap would be an EA81 engine with the D/R 5-speed behind it. But that's just my opinion.
  4. TomRhere
    That is the drain port for the spark plug well, there's one for each. Intake manifold gasket, or the small coolant hose from top center of engine to T-stat housing would be my guess as to source of coolant leak.
  5. TomRhere
    To late in the day to go have a look at it, but it was in good shape. Will take a good look at it after work tomorrow and post back. If the weather cooperates, I may snap a few pics of it for you. Yes, still has the seal rubber around it. Not sure right now of its, (the seal), condition as it has been some 14 years since I pulled it out of the BRAT. We'll talk price and whatnot after I/we get a good look at it.
  6. TomRhere
    Got one here out of an '86 GL BRAT. I tremble at the thought of what shipping charges would be though. Company I work for ships stuff all over the globe using various carriers. Got any preference? I can take it to work, get it properly boxed and quoted. Just need address it's heading to. A business address should be cheaper.
  7. TomRhere
    Code 11 and 13 will be present anytime one is reading codes. The engine isn't running, so the ECU isn't seeing the pulses from the distributor,, so the codes are set.
  8. TomRhere
    More thoughts.... The wiring harness from the Left Light housing runs down thru the body, then goes thru a grommet and comes out underneath to run across to the Right side. The License plate lights tie into the harness as it runs across the frame rail, as does the leads for the fuel sender. Harness passes thru another grommet and comes up to where the Right Light housing plugs in, then goes forward to the connection behind the Right rear panel of the bed. Possible corrosion issue where the License lights ground wires tie into the harness, or where the Right Light ties in. Maybe even some chaffing of the harness where it passes thru those grommets.
  9. TomRhere
    With this latest description of lighting weirdness, it definitely points to a ground circuit issue. Most likely in the rear wiring harness itself, but could be in either light housing. You changed out one with no cure, may be the other housing causing it, can't say.. I say that because automotive wiring will do some strange things when a circuit looses it's ground. It will seek ground thru another circuit's wiring, especially with lighting circuits. Ever been behind another vehicle what has both tail lights working until the driver hits the brakes, one tail light goes out and brake light comes on on the opposite side. Or, they have one tail light, one brake light lit until the brakes are applied, and things just don't look right to you. That is due to poor ground circuit in the harness and/or light housing. Can be a frustrating job to fix. Been down that road a few times. As I posted before, there is a connector behind that panel that feeds everything on the rear, tail-license lamps, brake/turn lamps, fuel gauge/low fuel lamp.. Take a good look at it, lightly tug on each wire on both halves. You are looking for corrosion, or a broken wire.
  10. TomRhere
    '87 had two different builds, early and late. Post up what the build date is, may help the Guru's on here in aiding you.
  11. TomRhere
    Replaced the one in my '88 with aftermarket, seemed to work great. Even got the fast-idle warm-up back. Want to say less than $50.00 thru rockauto, but local parts store should be able to get the parts for you. IDI Brand Sensor # 17-1233, (TX-18 type) BWD Brand connector #28419A. Cut stock connection off old one, solder/shrink-tubed it to the new connector.
  12. TomRhere
    Check the bonding wire from top brace of radiator to radiator support. Also, check the body ground wire from battery - cable to body.
  13. TomRhere
    Sure sounds like a bad ground. Pull the rear right hand panel, you'll find the connector for the rear harness, and the ground screw to the body of the BRAT. My bet is corrosion in that connector for the rear harness. Have had that issue a few times on various BRATs.
  14. TomRhere
    You need to lower the Mustache bar that holds the back of the rear diff in place. I usually just remove the nuts at both ends and use a small floor-jack to lower the diff.
  15. TomRhere
    You have both in those pics. The wire is currently plug onto the Oil Light Switch. Unplug the wire and move it over to the larger Oil Pressure Sending Unit. Gauge should read after that. The Factory gauges aren't real accurate. You will see it show "0" pressure at idle on a fully warmed engine. Totally normal, and stated so in the Owners Manual and the FSM
  16. TomRhere
    What changes did you make to the fuel system? Besides swapping fuel pumps.
  17. TomRhere
    Welcome to the Board. Have a currently non-drivable '88 GL down here in Hillsdale, Mi.
  18. TomRhere
    Fuel pump won't run until the Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU) sees pulses from the distributor. The FPCU is bolted above the hood release handle. I would run a Hot wire from battery to the connection at the pump, using the body for the ground. See if pump will run. Been a few years since I've looked, but new pumps were listed from $25. to $50. on various sites.
  19. TomRhere
    http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1988,gl,1.8l+h4,1268513,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968
  20. TomRhere
    One of the terminals on that switch will read continuity to the body of the switch. That is for the Oil Pressure Light, which you don't need. The other 2 terminals will be what you need for the fuel pump. Been well over 35 years since I owned the '76 Starfire, memory has lapsed on what terminal was what.
  21. TomRhere
    http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/oldsmobile,1976,starfire,3.8l+231cid+v6,1225358,electrical-switch+&+relay,oil+pressure+sender+/+switch,4588 That switch will work, as it controlled the fuel pump in that line of cars from GM. You'll have to find a way to adapt the threads and keep the stock Subaru oil pressure sending unit.
  22. TomRhere
    I believe Member jread has some 14" Peugeot rims he is wanting to sell.
  23. TomRhere
    The temp gauge is not great for absolute readings, only relative. I've had a couple where normal is maybe 1/4 of the non red, and others where normal is 2/3 of the way to red. Same temperature via real thermometer. Agreed. Same temp sensor, engine harness, on 3 different engines in same vehicle, gave different temp reading on the dash gauge.
  24. TomRhere
    That's the Fuel Pump Control Unit, (FPCU).
  25. TomRhere
    Thinking I would use the empty bolt hole in the pump to help guide a drill bit to get back on center of the broken bolt. I've used that method on a few things, but not on an oil pump bolt yet. Managed to get the one I broke out with a small tipped punch. P.I.T.A... If you do decided to try it, slow drill speed and light pressure is the key to get drill bit to stay centered. Then use proper size drill bit to drill out bolt.
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