TomRhere

Glad to read that you got it up and running again.

You mentioned "dry pavement". That's a No-No with this era of Subaru's. Loose stuff only. Sand, snow, mud, dirt, gravel. There is no center diff in the D/R trans of the U.S. models. So that locks the front and rear together creating binding. Evident by only coming out of 4WD by backing up. But, the possibility of mis-matched front/rear diffs as DaveT said is possible. Couple of easy checks; 1st, jack rear of car up enough that both rear tires are off the ground. Spin one tire, note which way opposite side tire spins. Both spin the same direction, you have an LSD rear diff, and someone may not have changed the ring gear to suit front diff ratio. They spin oppositely, you have an open diff, the standard on most of ours. Now lower the rear and jack one side up to get front/rear tires on one side off the ground. Put it in 4WD mode. Note position of valve stem on one of the tires, spin the other tire one complete revolution. Check where the valve stem is one the tire you did not spin, it should be in the same spot as it was. Meaning gear ratio's are the same front/rear.

Disty 180* out?

The gasket should seal it itself, no need for any sealant there.

Still, she looks a lot better after the wash than she did sitting under all that dust. And I can so relate to your last sentence.

Nice find. And she "Cleaned up good". As stated, drain tank, blow out all of the fuel lines. Be prepared to buy a new fuel pump. I'd pull the plugs and turn it over by using a socket on the crank bolt, maybe even put some oil in the cylinders while doing so. Then, if things seem okay, spin it over with the starter, (plugs still out), until I see oil pressure build on the gauge. Definitely will need to replace all 7 coolant hoses, accessory drive belts, and the likes. Fresh fluids thru out... Just about every seal/gasket on that one has dried out. (engine, trans, wheel bearings).

Solid line = inner antenna wire. Dashed line = shield (braided) wire.

Welcome to the Board! I work in Jackson, haven't seen your Loyale on the streets. But I also don't drive around Jackson to much. Jeszek (Loyale 2.7 Turbo) has some info on suspension stuff if you follow his links. Couple Members on here sell lift kits of various heights.

Factory Stock, the clutch return is done by the Hill-Holder cable and spring on 4WDs. FWDs had a return spring on the clutch fork and pitch-stopper bracket. If the H-H has been removed, a throttle return spring can be used, if one doesn't have the correct FWD spring handy.

I have the pulley and mount hardware here. Send an email to tomrhere at yahoo dot com if you want them.

Come down here to Hillsdale, Mi., and buy my '88 Wagon. You'll get everything needed for 5-lug swap, plus more. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160025-88-gl-wagon-for-sale-or-trade/

It is possible that they have the valve rockers adjusted to tight, holding valve(s) open.

D'OH!!!!!! LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hate when that happens.........

The White connector in your pic under the hood, is a Factory Test Connection. Just so they could check the harness, no connection to it on the car afterwards, other than it's tied into various circuits. The disty wiring changes was early '87 to late '87 models if I remember right. '88 and after were all the same. Differences between Auto trans/Manual trans ECU's were a few pins of the harness for the ECU went to ground if it was an Auto trans. Either ECU will work for your swap, if you follow the "pin-out" of the ECU correctly. Only asked about the coil bracket and Ignition Amplifier as I did not see it in the pics posted.

Chris, my email replies don't seem to be making it thru on our initial email string any more. I've sent you another one under a new subject line.

Where is the coil mount bracket with the Ignition Amplifier? SPFI needs that to operate the coil properly.

That basically describes both of the '86's I owned. Rusted bad when I got them, drove them until the rust ate thru the bodies so much they literally broke into pieces.

Well, if you're going to be a hoarder type, why not do it with BRATs. Owned 5 myself, with 4 here at one time. Down to just an '82 now. Always wanted one of each production year though.... Welcome to the Board!

You are calling the cylinders by the wrong number. As you look at the engine from the front, #3----#4 #1----#2 ---CP--- Firing order is 1-3-2-4 going CCW. Going by your picture, plug wires appear correct on the cap however. I have found it best,(for me), to have engine sitting at 20*BTDC (SPFI) (*8 for carbed) on #1 compression stroke, and drop disty in with rotor pointing at #1 tower on the cap. Puts the adjustment slots just about center for the bolts. And yes, a vacuum leak will mess with these engines some fierce if it is on the intake runner(s). Take a good look at #1 & #3 side intake runner, there is a vacuum port on it that feeds the Purge & EGR solenoids along with the heater controls. Very easy to knock it off one of the fittings, or even break fitting off one of the solenoids. Guilty as charged on that one myself. That engine ran like poo at idle.

Nice looking BRAT!!! Welcome to the Board..

This is view of where that hole leads to.

The XT6 flywheel step is 0.815.

Contact Shawn W. at RetroRoo in Denver. He owns that Company, and is the Administrator of this Board. retroroo.com

I have him covered on the part needed, plus some others.

That is indication of bad battery cables.