Petersubaru

a friend of mine who has a machine shop with plenty of experience in V8's told me a while ago that he does not think the rash of lifter problems are related to the quality of oil, the problem is more related to poor quality control at the manufactureing level, since I think all V8 lifters are made by one company(everyone has been bought out, but still useing there old name))..also over the years the specs for installing and tightening them down has changed from the 70's and very few people are aware of this change ..also there a host of other problems that are developed by the unknowing public which I will not get into at this time..I wonder what those subaru lifters EA82 are like ..the ones made in Spain.

or mahle, mann, mobile-one or wix filters, even better...

I had that same problem some time ago..got a torque wrench and tightened the axle nut 150lbs..no more bang..

Now that you tell me this, it seems so obvious, it also tells me that I have been looking at the wireing diagrams a little to long today, anyway it has been a real learning experience in patience to track all the wire pathways to get an understanding of what is really going on, at least from someone who has very little understanding about electrical issues...now off to get the fuel hoses/wire, fuses etc and get this set-up to make it "plug and play"...

most helpful..I promise, just one last question here,..on pg26 and looking at the fuel pump relay connector diagram ..the LW(blue/white)wire #4, does NOT have the letters "IG" power for this wire,..How is this wire to be connected for it 12V power source..Thanks again...

my set-up is also from a '90 and I understand what you mean by the wires being connected to everything else...could you explain further why the light green/white wire gets ONLY power when cranking...maybe a pin # if not to much trouble...

that would make sense???...

I am just seeking some sort of confirmation on the various power supplies that would be needed to get the FI conversion up and running ..what I understand to be is:1) 12v from the battery connected to the fusible link..2) 12v, ignition key-on to the ECU..3) 12v ignition key-on to the ignitor..4) 12v ignition key-on to the fuel pump relay and 5) also to the ignition relay...any feed back would be much appreciated

when looking at the FI conversion manual together with my Haynes manual, I can't seem to figure out the meaning of the letters ("IG" power supply) while at the same time other power supply wires do not include the "IG" meaning???

Thanks for including the other things I missed to pull apart just to get to the tranny seal plus other warnings..I have plenty of wrench turning experience, but no experience with auto trannys...upon closer inspection, there is no motor oil that I can see coming from the rear, and there should be no problem changing out the cv stub seals..much easier to add gear oil from time to time and hardly worth it to go to the trouble just to change one seal behind the torque convertor etc...now that I have a realistic perspective of the situation..I can move on to another project...

seeking some tips on the removal of my auto tranny (86ea turbo loyale/2wdr.)..I got gear oil leaking out of the front of the tranny and also a little from where the drive shafts hook-up too..rear main is also leaking and I guess I could also redo that seal...seems like a lot of work to replace a few dollars worth of seals, but it seems like it has to be done...other then removing the tranny lines/electrical and vac lines/cv axles/exhaust,... is there some unforseen problem that I might come up against that is not mentioned in the repair manual...other then that I will be doing it in the driveway

the blades Do have sharp straight edges all around...

there is no noticeable play in the shaft when pulling or pushing the shaft inwards...

yesterday, I replaced the coolant and oil hose under the turbo and I was wondering how to judge the condition of my turbo..apon looking at it, there is no oil to be found, everything seems to be clean... the blades spin freely and have only some sort of gray matter on them with very, very little side to side movement...'86 EA82/206,000miles/oil changed every 3000mi since new

you could remove the oil pump pulley to make the driver side a little easier to install the belt and also make sure the marks line up together on both the cam pulley and flywheel after tightening them up...rotate the motor a couple of times to recheck if the marks still line up together.. after both belts are on, start the car up and see how it runs before putting everything else into place...

it was Good to have heard about the improvements..then one does not have to be so dependant upon always getting sometimes the OE products which can tend to be more expensive...

Just curious, where you able to locate or find out what the problem was.....

Thanks for the offer of going to the junk yards..later on,(hopefully sooner) I may need to buy from you other spare FI parts for my SPFI conversion,(ECU/ coil with ignitor/TB switch/ when ever I can get around to doing the conversion...There are no cars left in the scrap yards for a hundred miles around...

yes, you are correct, I went to re-read the work order and it was something to do with the pulse thingy, which was by-passed....

how important is the little canister (damper) on the end of the fuel pump..is it really needed to smoothen out the fuel injection pulses... I know if needed that a damper can be bought separately and then add-on any FI pump, provided the correct pressure is there

I could be mistaken, but isn't there a module (electronic item of some sort) inside the distributor that could have gone bad

just curious GD..did you have the O2 sensor hooked up yet or did you wait to see if the rest works fine first before hooking up the O2

just trying to save some money since I have a spare from a SPFI..my wife never drives the turbo car more then 3200rpm and since the rpm never goes very high and the fuel delivery is never at it's max...then I was hopeing the smaller pump would work...

would anyone know if I can use the fuel pump from my SPFI and bolt it up to the turbo(EA82)..would there be enough pressure provided since the SPFI is smaller in diameter then the MPFI pump

sorry, I did not mean to say that the rack is leaking fluid...only to seal up the rods coming out of the rack...if the rods get dirt on them and slide back and forth thru the seals, this will cause them to eventually leak/...I am trying to avoid this from happening...