Legacy777

Welcome to the USMB. The lines in the back go up and around the edges of the gas tank. Replacing them may require dropping the tank As for the lines going into the cabin, they run along the door sill and would require taking the seats and carpet out on the pass side. I don't know if you can get to the lines behind the dash or where they connect to the lines in the engine bay. I agree trying to double flare the lines and make a connection inside the cabin would be a lot easier, but don't have experience doing that. Hopefully someone else can chime in.

When it shuts off, does all the electronics die or do the dash lights stay on? You may be on to something with the aftermarket security system.

Once you replace the CTS, clear the codes stored in the ECU and see how the engine runs.

Bill, Welcome to the USMB and thanks for the informative post and video! I'm sure it'll help someone in the future.

I just did a quick search and your prices are definitely the best prices I found.

Welcome to the USMB. Fuel trim codes are kind of tough to diagnose. Do you have an exact trouble code you can share? PXXXX One thing you may want to try is checking the grounds throughout the car chassis and engine chassis. If the wiring is the same as the first gen Legacy (90-94) the ECU grounds to the back of the intake manifold on the driver's side down near where it bolts to the head. The engine grounds to battery through the starter. So if any of these ground points have extra resistance in them, it could be causing issues. If you have a multimeter you can check the wiring resistance through the various ground wires to see if they're ok. Also, adding an extra ground wire for the main grounding does sometimes help. I had a friend that would get a random shift solenoid code on his 93 legacy. We found the ground wire between the chassis and transmission was broken. We fixed that wire and no more code.

I had tried to install a wrx axle back on my 97 OBS and while the piping and everything fit under the car, the exhaust piping size was quite a bit larger and wasn't going to easily bolt up to the existing exhaust. So that's one issue you may run into is exhaust piping size differences between the different motors.

Does the power light illuminate at all? It should come on steady with the key in the ON position, but engine not running, should stay lit for a few seconds after startup, and then turn off.

You can see in this pic that I think you can get the tensioner bracket off without removing the cam sprocket. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/20/DCP_4983.JPG It may be a tight squeeze, but I think you can do it. As for the part # of the tensioner bracket, you have the correct part #.

I'm going to move this to the new gen forum so it will get a little more attention.

Chris, welcome to the USMB.

Welcome to the USMB. What model Subaru do you have?

Welcome to the USMB. Hope you are able to get the Crosstrek soon.

Welcome to the USMB.

Welcome to the USMB.

Sounds good. Let us know what you end up going with.

Did you have all the gears before taking the trans apart to do the work? If so, then I would suspect something may not have been put back together properly or the solenoids you put in may not be working.

That sucks Steve! Wish I had some more suggestions for you to try.

With that kind of mileage.....I would suspect the internals are just getting a little worn. Like you suggested I'd check to see why the trans is moving. Try jacking up the trans a little bit to make sure the trans and engine mounts move with and they're not degraded. The other thing to make mention, don't confuse the shifter linkage movement with actual transmission movement. I've also got a 97 OBS and the trans is quite noisy as well. I had tried a trans cocktail several years back and it has been more noisy ever since. I've run Subaru's Xtra-S transmission in it and I think it helped a little bit, but is still quite noisy. I've got just under 190k miles on it, and am just going to drive it until it craps out. I don't have issues of the trans popping out of gear, but you also almost have another 100k on my trans.

Welcome to the USMB. Does the power light on the dash flash when you start up the car? If so, the TCU is indicating there is a code stored. Either way, I'd recommend checking to see if there are any codes stored in the TCU. Instructions to pull the codes are on my site. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html

Did adding more fluid help or are you getting the same codes?

I don't have any recommendations on a particular brand, but you may want to just see what's out there or if there is a Subaru option that would work with your existing keyless entry system.

Not sure if you still need this info, but I believe they should be the same ej253 motor. There may be some differences in electronics, but as long as you use the Legacy stuff you should be ok. Only other thing I can think that might be different is the 05 Legacy has EGR. I'm not sure if the 06 Impreza does, but again it shouldn't be an issue if you use the Legacy heads.

Can you elaborate what you mean by "push the bar down inside the hatch..."? What bar are you pushing down? You could take off the interior panel to get access to the innards in the hatch and handle. That's probably what I'd recommend As for the sound, any chance you could take a video with a phone or something so we could hear the sound?

I don't know if you still need this, but your best option is to probably loosen the dash a little bit and pull it away from the window just enough to fish a wire through. It's not extremely difficult to loosen the dash to move it slightly. The pain is removing it completely from the car.