Legacy777

Welcome to the USMB. It sounds like you're on the right track in looking for the problems. Have you tried running the d-check mode, which is a more active diagnostic check on the ECU. Instructions are on my site. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Also, as for the fuel pressure, you will need to remove the fuel supply line and tee in a line to run to a gauge. At idle with the regulator vacuum line plugged in, pressure should be around 30 psi. With the vacuum line removed from the regulator, pressure should be around 40 psi. Also, if you haven't run across it yet, I'd suggest checking out http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org There's a lot of info on there regarding the first gen legacy.

Seatbelts from 1995 and newer have a lifetime warranty and Subaru dealers should warranty them. The passenger belt on my 1997 Impreza was chaffed along the edges. I brought it in, the local dealership looked at it, and ordered a new belt. The dealerships won't just go up an replace the belt because you want them to. However if the belt is worn beyond "normal" wear and tear, like the chaffed edges, they should replace it.

Welcome to the USMB. I'm not aware of the specifics regarding the XM radio. However if you don't get a reply here, you may also want to search/post on http://www.legacygt.com/forums

Yup, drive by wire was introduced in the 2005 Legacy.

I would venture to guess your local subaru dealership could possibly adjust them. I know on the older cars, they couldn't, but the newer ECU's are alot more friendly for making adjustments like that. So I would suggest giving them a call and see if it is something they can do.

I don't know that the engine is going to be majorly different between the manual and auto cars. The engine management probably is. I'd recommend checking out http://www.legacygt.com/forums They may be able to give you some more specifics.

Kurt, Welcome to the USMB. I don't have any specific instructions for you. However, have you looked in your owner's manual to see if there are instructions provided?

When you replaced the pressure tranducer, did you replace it with a Subaru OEM part, or one from a parts store? How many miles are on the car? If the mileage is high, it's possible the O2 sensor may not be working correctly, and once you fixed the EGR, the ECU picked up on this. However, as you mentioned, the EGR may also have some carbon build up that may be causing you issues.

I would say that is related more to an engine management issue. When the engine is at idle and you floor it, there's a huge in-rush and demand for air in the engine. The ECU can't rely solely on the MAF sensor to let it know how much air is coming in. It also relies on the throttle sensor, and will adjust fuel enrichments accordingly to help the engine compensate. From my own experience with my aftermarket engine management system, the issue you are probably having is due to over-enrichment, and the engine is bogging out. I'm not sure if there's anything you can do about this. Subaru might be able to reflash the ECU if there's newer programming out there. One thing you can do to try and test this theory is to brake with your left foot, and depress the accelerator gradually with your right foot. Once engine RPMS have risen above idle, let off on the brake and continue depressing the accelerator.

Changing the transmission fluid would probably be my first recommendation if it has not been changed in a while.

Can you describe the hesitation a little more? I know my 90 Legacy had some intermittant issues with hesitation. Sometimes it was more noticable. I kind of attributed the issues to the trans being old. How many miles were on these other cars, the 2000 & 2006?

The oil pumps don't typically go bad. There is an o-ring between the block and oil pump that can be replaced, and you can check that the screws holding the oil pump backing plate have not backed off.

Check out this thread for info on removing the sunroof. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=183

Have you checked and verified that you have 12v on one pin of the injector connector? That should have 12v all the time, or at least the older legacies did. Use a volt meter and check for voltage on each of the connector pins going to the injector.

Welcome to the USMB. If the wheel came on a Subaru and has the correct bolt pattern, it "should" work on your 09 Impreza.

Yeah, I'd highly recommend replacing the coolant temp sensor. It is the two wire sensor. They're only about $20 new and may not throw a code. So if you have a spare and it seems to help, I'd probably suggest buying a new one as they can wear out and the response slows to where it can cause some of the odd issues you are having.

Hmmm....How old is the ECU coolant temp sensor?

How did the old position break off? You can replace the oil pump, which is where the crank sensor mounts to.

The wrist pins have a different part # in the subaru parts catalog.

NGK wires are good as well.

It depends on how you drive, but I would assume it'd be good to 200 hp or a little more. Again....depends on how you drive.

Normal operating temp for these cars with stock fans are 190-203. ECU kicks fans on at 203 deg F and turns fans off at 190 deg F. The t-stat will keep the lower end of temp no less than around 180-181 deg F. If the t-stat was old, I would recommend replacing it. Also, these engines have a second 1-wire temp sensor that hooks up to the dash gauge. So maybe it's bad or the calibration is different. As for the high idle, on top of the throttle body, does it have a big needle valve screw? http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/TB/ If so, turn that in. I wouldn't mess with the set stop screws on the side of the throttle body. If at all possible, I'd recommend trying to get this scan tool to work so you can verify all the ECU parameters. Things like the ECU MT/AT ident pin and neutral switch can sometimes play into some of the oddities when doing swaps. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=16219

Most plugs should be pre-gapped. The standard NGK copper plugs, which I recommend are typically pre-gapped. It is good however to check them. Gap for these motors typically range from 1.0 - 1.1 mm or about 0.040" - 0.044"

I don't have any direct help, but you may want to search ask in the built motor forum on http://forums.nasioc.com

That's cool! You got some real world numbers to compare before and after. I'd be curious how the full exhaust system compares when you get it.