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Legacy777

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Everything posted by Legacy777

  1. Yes, so code 12 and that would be duty solenoid B. You can try using the diagnostic pages below to test wiring and solenoid. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/duty_solenoid_b_diag1.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/duty_solenoid_b_diag2.jpg I'd suggest clearing the TCU's memory and see if that same code comes back. Pull the EGI/TCM fuse (fuse 14) for about an hour, reinsert, drive the car, and see if the same code comes back.
  2. Ben, The power light will flash in the same manner that this video of the check engine light does, long flashes are the tens place and short flashes are the ones place. Do the flashes you saw correspond to a long flash and a short flash or did it do something else? You can also try checking the ECU for any stored codes. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
  3. Welcome to the USMB Kit! I replied to your other thread about the hesitation.
  4. The change in idle is normal due to the AC compressor coming on and off when the defrost and AC vent settings are selected vs. the other vent settings that don't use the AC compressor. These cars had issues with their original knock sensors. the plastic would crack and cause hesitation. Subaru has a newer style, and you can tell the difference by the color of the connector. The old connector was gray where the new one was white. You can see the sensor and white connector in this picture.
  5. The 16 flashes of the power light on start up indicates there is an active code in the TCU. Use these instructions to pull the codes. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html I am also going to move your thread to the new gen forum.
  6. Welcome to the USMB. I am going to move your post to the new gen forum where it should get some additional views/replies. However, based on your emissions results you have separately high HC and NoX. Can you provide at what engine rpm the different readings were taken at and whether the tests were idle tests or on a dynamometer, which provides typical engine loads during driving? Is the check engine light on? Does it come on with the key in the ON position and engine not running?
  7. Welcome to the USMB! You've got a pretty wide range of subies there
  8. Did it just start doing this or has it been doing it for a while? Did you perform any maintenance work on it recently that corresponds with the problem?
  9. Yeah, see what the service guys say about the manuals. I'd be curious to know if the hard copies are still available. The manuals do become available online as time passes. I have a relatively large selection on my server, but don't really have any of the brand new cars. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans
  10. Yeah, I'd check the fuel pressure to confirm what is going on and that the regulator is working properly when you remove the vacuum line from it. All the stock regulators are 1:1 ratio, so as long as it physically fits it should be interchangeable.
  11. The other option is you could ask the local dealership if they sell or can order the factory manuals. I'm not sure if Subaru even makes hard copy manuals any more.
  12. What I linked to is for all ej series motors, turbo & non-turbo.
  13. If it's like the ej22t motors, I'd recommend permatex ultra-grey. Below is a list of Subaru sealants and their aftermarket equivalent. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/techinfo/subaru_sealants.gif
  14. Welcome to the USMB. Did you try and attach a picture or post a link to a picture you have hosted somewhere?
  15. Welcome to the USMB! It's interesting....you talk to people and they always seem to regret selling their first car. I've been fortunate I've been able to hold onto my Legacy for as long as I have
  16. Yeah, I also learned to drive on my Dad's mid 80's GL wagon. They are good cars.
  17. Not sure if you still need help with this, but I'm going to move it to the old gen forum (assuming the issue is with your Loyale) where others can help.
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