heartless

uh-oh - look out - Miles is gettin ready for another road trip! but if anyone can do it - and do it quickly - it is Miles.

very nice little wagon. um, yeah, cutting split ends off?? you need to completely replace those vacuum hoses, if the ends were splitting they are done. betting it will make a big difference once you do.

:lol: very true.

figures - story of my life too - funny but almost all of the GL's we had go thru here were manuals, but most of the Legacy's are auto's... and Miles is correct - keep the cars as complete as possible - make them run if you want to flip them - selling as "parts cars" is not the way to make any money - running driving cars are.

#1 - check for vacuum leaks as already mentioned. With vehicle running spray carb cleaner or similar around the vacuum lines to see if there is any change in idle. with any type of carb - if the vehicle has been sitting for any length of time, it is possible it may have plugged up fuel passages, causing symptoms like you are describing - in more extreme cases, the engine will fire with a shot of starting fluid, but not be able to continue running on its own, because fuel flow is being restricted in any number of passages. Basic carb function info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburetor good luck.

raise the front end up a little - they can be a little stubborn to burp all the air out sometimes. lifting the front will help that. then, once you think you have it - fill the overflow to the correct level, and check it regularly for a while to make sure it stays up. oh - BTW - not sure if you ever got an answer on the towing thing - but yeah, 5 spd FWD car should be fine - it is the AWD ones that have issues.

um, yeah, i think you have to have XX number of posts to be able to post pics and send/recieve PM messages...I see you now have 10 posts - check it again....

hmmm - what does the 95 LS wagon have for a tranny & what kind of shape is it in?? my current ride is a 90 LS wagon with the 4EAT - would really like to get back into a manual one of these days...

yeah - if you are fussy about appearances, then swapping out the door is easiest. if you arent real fussy, just want to get rid of the "huge" dents, but are ok with smaller imperfections - well...lots of options you will not be able to use a rubber mallet directly on the dents...inner door frame will not allow that, but as already noted, a piece of wood or other tool can be used going thru the small holes in the inner door frame (window up!) or you can try the suction cup thing, or the heat thing, or the inner tube type of thing... good luck.

used the ultra grey when we did the reseal on my motor 2 weeks ago.. laid down a good bead (3/8" + or - a little) between bolt holes - a little smaller around bolt holes - making sure everything connected - no gaps anywhere - then just bolted it back on - didnt get real super fussy about it, just tried to keep an even amount all the way around... So far so good, no obvious leaks, oil level is staying up where it should be. good luck with yours.

are you downshifting at all??? if not, you should be - makes no difference if manual or auto, shift that puppy down to a lower gear - 1st would be good if the hill is that steep.. you should NOT be relying 100% on your brakes to control your speed - that is what causes the brake fade. use the engine and trans to help control speed using the brakes as needed, not constant.

Once a pic is that small, all the detail has been lost and can never be recovered. I could blow it up till the cows come home, but it wont help - it would be just a blurry mess.

paul hogan...jack hanna??? really??? just teasing... OK, will send you a pm regarding the route we take from home to madtown. just a word of warning tho - it might seem like it is longer, but it really isnt - like I said, we can run it from home to the south side of Madtown (beltline & seminole hwy) in 3 hrs, almost on the dot, depending on traffic.

There ya go.

you can go cheaper, but you might end up replacing again in a year or so - up to you. If you plan on keeping the car for a while, i would go for the quality. (hint: i paid $150 for my first one and drove it for nearly 8 yrs - would still be driving it if the rust cancer hadnt taken over)

Bring it on baby!! i know a little gravel pit not too far away, hehehe...

holy cow ... yeah, i bet that poor hitachi is shot from trying to overcome all of that carnage!

That really is one sweet wagon...sigh... I hate you, Tom (j/k)

41 to 10 is shorter miles wise, but not necessarily time wise - there is major construction where you would need to exit from 41 - as in off ramps completely closed, cant use them, so you would have to go further north and east then back west - doesnt really save anything. easiest route is 94 west to 39 north to 10 west I know there is construction on 94 in your general area, but once you get out of that, it is pretty much done. This route would be a little bit longer than what I personally would do, but dont want to confuse anyone.

avatar pic is entirely too small to even get a hint from all i can see of it is that it is mainly white...

uh, yeah - unless you are having issues, i would leave it alone until such a time as you have the time to trace, figure out what it is/was and either remove or whatever you are going to do with it.

yeah, if you have an owners manual most dont have those anymore - my GL didnt, Marcs old GL didnt - it is pretty rare to find one in a car this old, a rare treat if you do find one! sigh - i miss my old GL. Had a lot fo fun with that car.

yeah, those numbers do seem a bit low... I am going to guess this was on a cold engine? I also am concerned about the 85 - that is quite a bit lower than the rest. compression check "should" be done on a fully warmed up engine - but that is kind of a catch 22 if the engine doesnt want to run right... Yeah, pull your plugs out...pull the center wire on the disty for the coil to prevent sparking ... and unplug the fuel pump (or pull the fuse) so no fuel is going to the motor. crank it over a few times to clean it out, and try to get another reading.

+10 stock horns are whimpy anyway...get something that will make some noise!

the thickest oil i have ever run in a 4 cyl motor (of any kind) was 15w40 but, i dont claim to be an expert here...just throwing out my 2/10ths of a cent worth owners manual for the 1989 EA82, SPFI i had recommended 10w30 or 10w40 for most driving applications (some differences for regular use in extreme temps - over 100*F or under -30*F) so that is what I always used. 10w30 in winter, 10w40 in summer. I cant imagine the 1990 would be that much different. tried 5w30 once - oil pressure was almost un-noticable! it got changed out pretty quickly.