forester2002s

Juan said: I think that you're missing the point here. That's how Subaru's AWD works; the fluid stiffens on purpose when it detects differential rotation between wheels.

Boy, is this ever confusing! HELP! We need some input from knowledgeable tire people.......

If it's the contacts that need lubeing, then you'll need some 'electrically conducting grease'. Try your local auto-parts store.

I have a 1980's-era Dodge locking cap on my 2002 Forester. It works a treat.

The wiring diagram for my 2002 Forester suggests that the switch-lamps would illuminate even if the seat-heater elements were faulty/unplugged/non-existent. So I wouldn't rely on the switch-lamps to confirm whether the heater elements are OK or not-OK.

This sounds like the classic 'hesitation' problem, well-addressed on this forum. Do a search on this thread for the word 'hesitation', and all will be revealed. I have the same problem with my 2002 Forester. I can almost eliminate the symptoms by idling for about 10 seconds immediately after starting the car.

On my 2002 Forester, that button to the left of the steering wheel, adjacent to the cruise and fog-light buttons, is for the Windshield + Side-Mirror Heaters. You should be able to see the Windshield heater-wires, embedded in the glass low-down under the parked wiper-blades. In fact that is what they are for, to defrost the wiper-blades and unglue them from the glass. The side-mirror heaters are not visible on my Forester; they must be bonded to the back of the mirrors. Anyway, they work!

Great idea! If the plastic-tie doesn't work, how about a good old-fashioned paper clip, gradually squeezed over the hose?

Yes, I think that these air-compartment filters are optional. They don't come as original equipment. I guess Subaru's thinking is that, for most applications, they are not needed.

This could be the subject of a whole new thread: to lubricate, or not to lubricate the threads? Unless otherwise specified, a tightening torque is meant to be applied to clean, undamaged threads. Applying the same torque to lubricated threads, results in a larger (sometimes MUCH larger) bolt-tension. Applying the same torque to dirty or corroded threads, results in a smaller bolt-tension. So, what to do? IMHO: Don't lubricate the threads, unless there is a good reason to do so.

The Factory Service Manual for my 2002 Forester says to tighten wheel nuts to: - 88 N.m (9kgf.m, 65 ft.lb) (same torque for steel and alloy wheels)

My 2002 Forester has only one washer fluid reservoir (under the hood). It serves both front and rear windows. And the two small pumps are clearly visible, mounted on the side of the reservoir adjacent to the battery.

Why did I buy a Subaru? Near to where I live, there is a steep road with even steeper driveways. Someone had put up a road-sign reading "Rue Subaru". That's when I started noticing the high-percentage of Subarus around. I too live at the end of a steep road, so when I was looking for a new car......

14mm? That's not very big. You should be able to get that at Sears. EDIT: Whoops, I misread the OP. I thought that we were talking about a 14mm socket (which isn't that big). However a 14mm Allen Key is kinda large!

Another consideration is the wear-resistance of the rubber. My 2002 Forester came with original Yokohama Geolander tires. They gripped the road like a cat, but were worn out at 53,000km. My tire shop told me that they were made of relatively soft rubber. A harder rubber tire should last longer, but may not grip the road as well. I replaced the Geolanders with Motomaster SE tires from Canadian Tire. They seem to perform almost as well as the Geolanders, and should (!?) last longer, being made of harder rubber. At the end of the day, I think that it is a bit of a crap shoot. I suspect that driving-style, alignment, and inflation pressure are more important.

No, you can do it yourself. See this site: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

I have a hidden immobilizer switch, wired in series with the clutch-pedal switch. When activated, the switch will not allow the starter to work. Everything else looks normal on the display.

I use 10W30 (dino) in summer; and 5W30 (dino) in winter. To be honest, I cannot tell the difference in the way the motor runs. The 10W30 is slightly cheaper, but I use the 5W30 in winter so that starting is a bit easier on the engine in colder temperatures.

This site has lots of info about remotes: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#alpine

My 2002 Forester has the following switches: - Rear Window Defogger: Cancels itself after 15 min, and also when ignition switched off. - Side Mirror & wiper-blade Heater: Only cancels itself when ignition switched off. - Seat Heaters (toggle-switch): Never cancels. Stays on forever, unless switch is turned to off. I have rewired the seat heaters with the addition of a relay and a pushbutton switch. Momentarily pressing the button will latch-in the relay, which allows the seat-heaters to energize. The relay drops out when the ignition is switched off. Ideally, all of these switches should be the same as the Rear Window Defogger, which cancels itself after a set time.

I wonder if this is the same problem as called 'hesitation' by many owners? Do a search on this board for the word 'hesitation', and you'll find lots of suggestions. Many posters have suggested resetting the ECU, to cure hesitation. For myself (2002 Forester), I find that hesitation is most noticeable if I start the engine and then drive off immediately. However if I start the engine, wait about 10-seconds and then drive off, then there is no hesitation.

I wouldn't be too concerned with the observed PSI reading. Unless you bought a precision gauge, I would guess that the accuracy of a mass-produced pressure gauge could be in the order of + or - 20%. So what does 80 psi mean, as opposed to say 60 psi? I don't know. What is more useful, is to watch the position of the gauge over time. As you say, watch it as the engine warms up; and watch it over many miles and over many months or years, to see if the pressure degrades. And also after oil changes. And of course, if the pressure reading goes to zero, STOP THE ENGINE right away!

I agree. This is the simplest mod to make. Just watch the vacuum gauge as your foot presses on the gas pedal. In no time you'll be saving gas.

When I traded my old Dodge 360cu.in V8 gas guzzler in for a Forester, I reused that old locking gas cap from the Dodge (I had it for years; it wasn't OEM; bought it at an auto-part store years ago). The old cap fits the Forester perfectly. And no CELs! So, moral of the story, try a Dodge locking gas cap.

I would be interested to know if this works to cure the idle hesitation. And what exactly will the dealer do to 'reflash the ECU'? Will they just disconnect the power to the ECU for a while, or will they actually 'reprogram' the ECU with new software? Let us know what transpires.