forester2002s

Hey, I've never scrolled down to the bottom of the page to see the 'Similar threads' listing. Thanks for the tip.

My new 2002 Forester came with Champion RC10YC4 plugs from the factory.

When you cut open the filters, I suspect that you've also opened a can of worms....:-\

Thanks Frag. That's interesting info. When I've mail-ordered from the US, it is a bit hit and miss with taxes and duties. Sometimes the parcel gets delivered without any extras, and other times I've been hit with all the taxes and duties. But at least now the CAD/USD exchange rate is much better (for Canadians anyway).

Model and year? The only help that I can offer is that on many models, the two green connectors are for interrogating error codes. I'm sure that someone can explain how they work.

That's good to know. Thanks for posting.

I have a 2002 Forester without a sunroof. Shortly after buying the car, I looked into the possibility of installing an after-market sunroof. I looked under (above?) the headliner, and discovered a structural rib crossing the roof, exactly where a sunroof would go. That rib would have to be removed to instal a sunroof. I've no doubt that many sunroof suppliers would have no problem doing that, but it made me decide to abandon the idea.

The technical term for that is: Stinkin' Hot.

When I measure my fuel consumption, the capacity of the fuel tank does not enter into it. I just fill up completely each time. And I reset the trip-odometer to zero. Then I use the current fill volume and the distance since the last fill to calculate either: Litres*100/km (to give me L/100km); or else: miles/gallons (to give mpg). It's that easy! Having said that, I find that a single reading is not really accurate, because the level of the final 'fill' is variable. Some pumps 'click off' too early, and others too late with the gas up into the filler tube. So my spreadsheet also calculates the fuel consumption over the last five fills. I call that a 5FMA (5-Fill Moving Average). I find that useful to observe long-term trends.

Please explain how putting two people in a car changes the circumference of a tire. BTW: 'Circumference' is the distance measured around the outside surface of the rubber tread on a tire.

It's a silicone sealant: http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/1100list.html

My own take on this is that 5000 RPM is too high for engine braking alone. I would use 3rd gear (instead of 2nd), and limit the engine to no more than about 3500 to 4000 RPM, by using occasional pedal braking.

I got 40-km (25 miles) out of my 2002 Forester MT5, before the engine started misfiring, and I then refuelled from a portable gas-can.

What colour is the connector? How many wires connect to each side of the connector? What shape is the connector (rectangular? round? flat?)?

Good for blockages of the human kind too?

That should be plenty enough time for the oil level to settle!

I would echo the suggestion to do an oil change. If it is noisy tappets, then clean oil will often cure this. BTW how many miles since the last oil change? Is the oil black?

Diesel engines for cars have made huge strides in recent years. I recently rented a car in Europe (Spain actually). I didn't realize that it was a diesel at first; it was very quiet, and very smooth. And no noticeable exhaust smell/smoke. It was the 'flat' torque-speed characteristics that made me realize that this was a diesel (high-torque at low revs.). I was very impressed with that engine (BTW it was a Ford). If Subaru can do as well, I may be the in the market for a diesel next time around.

My 2002 Forester has different keys for the roof-rack and car. The roof-rack key is a 'Yale'-type (similar to a front-door key), but smaller. There's no way that the car key would even fit into the rack.

Just to set the record straight: - below the yield point, metals are ELASTIC (i.e. they return to the same shape after the load is removed); - above the yield point, metals are PLASTIC (i.e. they don't return to the same shape after the load is removed).

It could be that one of the 'pins' in the cylinder is stuck. First thing, I would try some WD-40 in the lock. Then insert the key and keep wiggling it gently. This might free-up the stuck pin.

Satellite or UFO? Close encounters of the low-beam kind?

Yes, where is he? Here's another post looking for Alias20035: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9454&highlight=alias

But just make sure that the replacement studs and nuts have the correct material and chemical specs. I would want to buy replacement studs from Subaru, just to be sure.