forester2002s

I had the clutch replaced about 20,000km ago, so it's almost new. But, my intermittent pedal-sticking started after that clutch job. ??

Bump. Any conclusion on this? I am having the same symptoms on my 2002 Forester 5MT. - clutch pedal not returning properly; - it sticks about half-way up, but only in hot weather with A/C on; - does not seem to affect the clutch engagement/disengagement; - a slight lift from underneath the pedal with my foot will release the pedal; and then it sticks again on next gear-change. I tried to buy new seals for the master and slave, but Subaru does not sell the seals separately. I may just flush and bleed the system to see if this cures the problem.

Did you mean "LESS than 1 qt"?

.. especially poor ground connections.

Me too! After several month of an intermittent clock, I finally fixed it. I saw that one of the previous posts had said that this could be done in 15-minutes, so I couldn't procrastinate any longer! It does indeed only take 15-min. Yes it was the #510 resistor-solder that was cracked, but I resoldered #300 as well. Thanks to whoever it was who posted the original fix (great photos), and to all others who have kept the link alive.

I'll take the risk of opening a can of worms, but I use Fram filters, and they NEVER leak.

Gaulding?? What has that to do with spark-plugs? Did you mean 'galling'?

I reuse the old washer 4 or 5 times. Then I replace it with a new crush-washer. Not because the old one leaks; it never does. But more out of a sense of guilt: The mighty Subaru engineers have decreed that the washer should not be reused, and I feel that I ought to comply. So I do, but only every 5th time!

I agree. That is exactly what I did a year or so ago (2002 Forester). That 'auto' adjustment system rarely works properly, in my experience, and it is easier to remove the wheel and mini brake-drum. There was plenty of meat left on my linings, just needed adjustment. And then I did a small cable adjustment (under the hand-brake handle). And my hand-brake was transformed back to new!

A marble in the ash-tray?

So that your rear-seat passengers can over-ride your choice of music?

Two thoughts: - Can your remote switch handle the (very) large current that a typical starter-motor needs? - Have you got 12V at the starter terminals when you try to start? If not, then the problem is in the supply to the starter. If yes, then the problem is in the starter.

Try parking your car rear-end to a wall, preferably after dark. Then press the brake pedal and/or put the parking lights on. You should be able to see reflections of the lights. You can also do this when parked in front of another car. Either way, you can check whether your lights are coming on.

Definately not normal! Strange things like this can sometimes be caused by a faulty ground somewhere.

A flashing-red LED lamp (even if it does nothing) will deter thieves. And a steering-wheel club (even if it is not locked) will deter thieves. However, if someone really wants your car, you can't stop them. They could lift the car on to a flat-bed truck, and be gone in seconds.

I'm relieved to find out how this circuit works. I was worried at the thought that there were bare electrical sparky-contacts in my fuel tank. I kept saying to myself: "Surely not!"

Do you have any facts that you could share with us? Or this just a racist/xenophobic rant?

I have never found a good wiper blade (in almost 50-years of driving). But it helps to clean the blades every time that I fill up with fuel. I wipe the blades with the back-side of the window squeegee-tool; and then I clean off the blades with a paper towel.

I bought a brick-type magnet at Sears, and I strap this on to the outside of the oil-filter canister with a large hose-clamp. Does it work? I don't know, but my assumption is that it does no harm.

Holy mackerel! That's 24,000 - 34,000 rpm. Cleared for takeoff?

The rear diff on my Sube has two plugs. One is a drain-plug, and the other is the fill-plug. Remove the fill-plug FIRST, then remove the drain-plug and drain the oil. Why? Because if you take the drain-plug out first, what do you then do if the fill-plug is seized? The drain-plug has a magnet inside. Make sure to clean the iron-filings off of the magnet. When you see the stuff that is on that magnet, you'll know why changing the oil was such a good idea. If I remember correctly, the two plugs have female square-holes, and I think that a 1/2" sq.drive fits into this (I'll check my car later, and edit this if I was wrong). My rear diff takes 0.8 litres of oil (measured to the bottom of the fill-hole). You can make life easy for yourself, by buying a turkey-baster (the squeeze-bulb type). and using that to squeeze the oil into the fill hole. The whole thing takes about 30-minutes.

Quote from the Subaru Factory Service Manual for 2002 Forester: Recommended spark plug: CHAMPION RC10YC4 NGK BKR6E-11, BKR5E-11 Spark plug gap 1.0 — 1.1 mm (0.039 — 0.043 in) The Forester came from the factory fitted with the Champions. They worked just fine.

Nipper: We need you! By all means leave this thread alone. But I, for one, appreciate your input. In fact, when I see your comments on a thread, I take note and learn from them. I look forward to your input on other threads!

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#2006%20tribeca (includes disarming instruction for 2009 models)

What do you see when looking into the coolant overflow reservoir? Any bubbles? Any oil film? That would indicate a HG leak from the combustion chamber. But as you say, you may only have an external leak.