Urabus-84HBDR

tried it... it wasnt low, but topped it off any way. in my wagon 83 ea81 it had too much, and would heat up boil over to a point then be fine. weird, its posted somewhere, too much coolant.

i bought this car about 4 months ago. it is a 1988 gl10t, sedan, 5s diff lock. has the digi dash installed a year or two ago by another board member who owned it. (lumpycam) the air ride has been replaced also. it has never heated up on me before, but now when i drive to work, 49* North the local ski hill... it heats up on me when i start up the hills. not sure why but only when going up the hills... i have been told thats common with hg failure? anyone back that? or what is it? here is what im going to do- get a hg kit and pull the motor, check out the heads have them pressure tested. get a new dual core radiator, hoses, new pcv valve and all the hoses that goes with it. do a thorough tune-up, change all the fluids, even the diff and trans. is there a k&n filter kit to fit these cars? like a cold air intake or?? a different turbo, i think mine is leaking too- also another reason possibly that is why it overheats... i have a ton of other questions that will pop up as i go for sure... i have read almost every ea82t thread so please dont tell me to search, as i am and have done that, so any advice or your opinions are greatly appreciated! thanks. theres more im doing too, exhaust, intercooler...

just take them off... clean them up, spray with some kind of lube... wd40 works ok but wears off after a while... try to see if either of the cables are craked frayed or kinked, this could cause slow returns. spray and work them by hand to get them working smooth... ive done this on both my wagon and hatch throttle cables. good luck

when i replaced my front crank seal (88 gl-10t) the sprockets were off just barely... thats how i left them, no problems, not forseeing any either... just make sure the cams are timed correctly! 180 out from each other... oh and yea one belt is longer than the other... cant remember what one is tho... lol. good luck

hey you all started somewhere, right?! give him a break... he might be 16 but hes trying to learn! Im the same way, I payed for my car, (my parents didnt buy me anything) worked on it, fixed it... Drive it all the time, same thing just not a RX, GL-10T sedan, I ask 'dumb' questions like these all the time, and at times hate my car too! Like when I had to take off my intake just to tighten/repleace a few stripped and one broken bolts?! but never once have gotten a response as GD gave... But point is you all are not above him or any of that, just cuz you have no life and post in every thread on here.... Grow up, you do know (half way) what your talking about, and arent a few of you guys apart of the moderators?! what an example... If your not willing to help a guy out in need then dont post... Isnt that what this board is about, our love for subarus and helping each other out? enough ranting.... pm you later prospeeder

if oyu want i can get all the specs for any of the subaru pistons or motor for that matter... any of it... my bro is in a machining class and we are going to be rebuilding an ea81 with the ea71 pistons and some other goodies, weber carb, dual exhaust, and some other secret stuff.... lol. let me kno i can get the info if you want! laters.

Ive been out at the local orv park just cruisung around seeing/showing some frineds what my STOCK hatch could do. They all did the same; laughed when this little two door CAR went into the park, three people. lol! I just drove around to find someone to wheel with, usually people are cool and like that. What I found was the samething... Some FORD guys (dont get me wrong, Im a ford (car) guy). But they just looked at us and laughed... So after he rolled back down the hill from not making the hill climb, I went up right in his tracks, full load, nothin special. 4 lo, and crawled right up it... The look on thier face was priceless! After that they wanted to talk... I also told them how much I had into the car, at the time about $500!! yes I love it. People under estimate these cars. The only problem I have found with it is that if you want mud you DO need a lift kit... No doubt, but if your just cruising loggin raods/orv- not lookin to splash- I know thats where thee fun is... but like others said, its the driver that is limited, not the car, I have scared myself a few times, and some passengers too! Enough of it! Just hit some climb that they cant do, that will put their ford in its place... after they break something, take it to the shop and about 1500 later diving it again, we just go to the j/y or ur parts car! lol

Foruntaley enough in my case I did NOT have to take the intake all the way off. I did take pics as the procecss went on... First; all together, second; loosen/remove pcv valve/hose, egr valve line, removing hoses, fuel lines, air cleaner/housing/hoses, dont forget to drain the antifreeze and the remove the throttle cable... third; with the intake propped up and moved towards the firewall with all the required lines off.... There is ALOT of lines, (Im just use to ea81), and hoses on the ea82T... You dont have to take them all off, just the major ones. and of course the alt, a/c pump, remove battery- makes room, the spare tire rack/stabilizer thingy... (lack of word.) After all hoses are loose and moved out of the wqay, loosen the intkae bolts, lift up. I made sure I had another set of intake gaskets to install after this. Also make sure that as you put it all back together that you dont miss anything.... Put it all bak together the sam order you took it apart, its easier for me this way.... Thanks all and pm me if you have any questions or something to add, Im sure I forgot something.

oops... 1988 gl-10 turbo, 1.8, sedan, umm.. thats it I think... thanx! obviously has power steering, a/c is in but doesnt work, the air ride suspension has been changed, struts/coils.? not sure exactly but no air ride... ok. took the thing all apart and figured out what the problem was... one of the bolts for the power steering pump was broken off... the bolt was broken so that the threaded peice was inside the hole. used a hammer adn chisel to get it out... thats the second time this has happened, Im lucky! First time it was my cam blot that holds the pulley on... So found three bolts to fit the threads, the other ones were all wore down and no threads left... so put the pump back on, new intake gaskets, and I broke a T, and two hoses, they were really old I guess, Where do I find these hoses besides the j.y.? Its all back together except the broken T and hoses... Thanks.

Like the title says I got another problem. As in my other post the first thing on the sedan, the screw inside the cap which holds the rotor down came off. By putting the screw back in fixed this problem... Now since then, my power steering pump seems to be loose and squeeling when idling/running.- more of like a ticking- it sounds like somethings rubbing. But I KNOW there isnt. The pump bolts on the bracket are loose, under the intake manifold theres three bolts, the only one I can get to is the rear one, which I have to take out the alt.- which is stripped out; I can tighten it down, gets tight, but then is all loose again... the other two bolts are inaccessible- Im gogin to have to take the intake off. LAME.... How hard is this to take off?! I am going out after this to start doing it... I am going to just use a tap and dye (sp?) to fix the thread on the rear bolt. Thanks for reading this thread any help/info is greatly appreciated.

like i said if its not one thing its another.... i get it running. it runs good. has that slight hesitation as others stated in posts, but also. my power steering pumop blots are loose.. realy loose.... the bolt thats loose is right under the intake... no room at all to get a wrench or anything.... im not sure what im goin to do as of right now. any suggestions would be awesome. thanks guys!

Im up in Newport on the ID line, but go to school in spokane....

hah.... went back this morning.... took off the disty cap and theres the little screw to hold the rotor in spot.... that was kinda a releif. it was. yea, put it back on, fired right up and drove to school from where I left ti last night! Thanks for the posts and replys! I love this board! yay, Im at school, so back to it I go....... Both belts feel tight thru the little inspection covers..... took off the pass side ones and shouldnt have.... o well.

I have taken the pass. side cover off. the belt is tight and looks like new! I also am positive that the cams are (were) 180 out from each other.... I posted on here somewhere what not to do.... not turn them 180 out. but tore it back apert and corrected it! Positive. is there an actual way to 'properly' tighten the tensioners down? I didnt drive since it died... Im going to try the rotor screw frist. start easy. then go to the driver side cover. Time will tell. Thanks for the quick responses!

Okaye heres the deal. I want some opinions for this one! pleeze! 88 gl-10 turbo, new front crank seal, timing belts, full tune up.... Ran fine for a few weeks, 1000 miles and then just died on me in traffic.... downshifting into 3rd and it died, popped the clutch, nothin, pulled over (rolled), checked coil wire, all spark plugs, anything.... vacuum lines, hoses, connections, fuses.... Tried to start it, jus cranks over, its getting spark from coil, and can smell fuel... pushed it off the hwy. and took off the timing cover, no broken belt. Sounds liek its out of time... I read a few of the other posts similiar to these symptons... screw on rotor comes out, or slipped a belt... what to do? Im going back to it tomorow, some very nice people let me pull it inot their driveway, they pushed me with their car.... hey it didnt get towed! Ill update tomorow. thanks all! subaru love

Alright! I made it to school today. It was the cam timing, I beleive that the pass side was 180 out. It was on a comp stroke when it should have been on the exhaust stroke. I beleive. What I did was. Tear it down to the timing belts, alligned the valve timing marks with the bellhousing mark, make sure the disty rotor was pointing at number one. Then took off the pass side belt, after that, I spun the drivers side 360 counterclockwise, put it back togfether and bam..... Fired right up, purred like never before, that I have seen. Sweet, another time I will do a WRITE UP. Thanks

okay now my delima..... I have put it back together. Started it, sounds like only two cylinders are firing. When I put the flywheel on TDC 0, and the rotor on the disty is pointing to opposite of #1- I think it is #2. Now what is off, my camshaft-s', would it be 180 out. I beleive that the cam (1+3) is on the exhaust stroke. Another q? Is there a position for TDC comp. stroke and TDC exhaust stroke? Really though. What Im going to go do now...... Take the timing covers off (all the screws are perfect), Put the valve timing marks in the center of the three. The remove the crank pulley, take off the central cover off. Then turn the crankshaft with only the drivers side belt on 360*. Then hook it back up, in doing this the two pins on the camshaft sprocket are pointing to the same=, top- or bottom. Do all of this with the #1 cylinder/piston on the compression stroke.... I think... j/k I am at a loss so far.

okay. got it all tore down, washed I installed the crank seal, went down good and flush. Took off and looked at the oil seal, the mickey mouse one was all kinked in... have also put the rear of the timing covers on. Put on the left side belt (drivers side). I washed the covers all, made sure that all the bolts/nuts were there. Going to go finish as soon as it warms up a bit, its only 37* f! Oh yea Im doing all of this with out a shop, just in my driveway!!!! Thanks, Ill let you all know if it starts and runs, or how good/bad it does. Naw, got to have some confidence, its goin to run, without spewing oil all over my undercarriage..... thanks update- I, well my brother decided that the cam sprocket bolts werent tight enough, ended breaking one off inside. Took the belt off, along with the sprocket. My idea is going to be; drill a small hole to fit an easy out in, maybe.... that will work. Going to search around on this.... Thanks

What NEEDS to be done when I am changing the Front Crank Shaft Seal., also going to put a new oil pump seal in. I am working on it today so any info asap would be awesome. The car is a 1988 GL-10 Turbo AWD sedan, ea82T, so all knows, I have read a few of these from other board members and sounds like most just pull the radiator out and do it that way. I want to leave the car as together as possible, I will, but dont neccessarily want to pull the motor. I am capable of the pull, I am mostly concerned with time... Any info on this would greatly help me. Thanks everybody who read this or replied! I plan on doing a write up afterwards, if it goes smoothly...

I got a new Subie!!! Yea! Its sweet, okay, its a 1988 Sedan GL-10 Turbo AWD 5 Speed, with Diff Lock. I couldnt even think about buying a different kind of car! Its weird! But yea only 600 bucks. It has 211k on it but runs very strong. Has had the digi dash put in by another member before the person I bought it from had it. Okay... Thanks for reading and for those of you who own one of these cars, what do I need to know about them? Anything go wrong more than other things? axles, brakes... Laterz

alright, my 84 hatch has been overheating. I usually try to fill up the radiator when it was low, it overheats often, right thing to do? maybe, maybe not. If I let it heat up, it only spits out so much then its okay. Then after that its fine. It has only gotten warm since, not hot. Has this happened to anyone else? My wagon does the samething, if you fill it up all the way, it overheats to a certain point then its fine. Only the wagon doesnt lose as much as the hatch. Wagon is about only an inch low, and hatch about two to three inches low. (dont know how much is actually in it) this all struck me weird. any info on why this is, is it a bad radiator, on both? or just the normal level for the antifreeze to expand that much? Thanks for in advance!

just updating the problem with my car, it is still overheating. Usually when I try to run 60 on the hwys. it does good otherwise, I have not had the money to buy a new radiator or exhaust, but will soon. I think that my exhaust leak is so severe it is helping heat it all up, If I get into the pedal its loud, and starts to heat up. Unless my motor is pretty much gone.? How can I tell, It has power, but not like my wagon, (it hauls!) Also I cant hardly go past 3500-4000 grand when starting out, why is this? The wagon will pull until like 5 if I want.... thanks for reading this and please tell me anything that would help or could help!!!

well I have just about had enough of the hatch, cant get ris of it but. I have found an 88 gl-10, sedan with digi dash, 5 sp AWD w/diff lock, plus its a turbo. Question, are all gl-10's turbos? How much are they worth, this one is pretty nice, hardly any rust, good interior, not all cracked up, but needs a good tune-up, and axle. Just want to get an idea of what they are going for, already looked around on here, just want some opinions of others. Thanks for your input, any other info on these cars would be aewsome too, thanks again!!

i think, corerct me if i'm wrong anyone, but you need the ea71 out of a 81 brat, they are still gen 1, as all other models are gen2 in 1981. the brat had d/r with side mount starter. ive been trying to find one, but its like looking for a needle in a hay stack! just get an ea81 and the d/r for it, less hassle more common. I am rebuilding an extra ea81 for my 79 brat, thus i can put a d/r 4 speed into it. later on. and good luck!

got to looking a little closer and noticed there was a very small stream coming out from the bottom of the pump. I replaced it with one of the extras I had lying around and it stayed below the normal temp reading, after running for 15 min. going to go drive it now. If it isnt one thing its another. thanks guys for the help and support.