Urabus-84HBDR

if your putting a 6'' lift on the front and back your going to run into some steering issues. first the angle is way too sharp; the point at which the steering shaft comes out of the fire wall needs to be lowered. trust me. then add an extra u joint there... also when doing this what did you do about the brake lines?! you have to re-route them so they arent in the way of the steering shaft. I will take some pics of mine this weekend and try to get them up on the board before end of the quarter... march 20. more and more of 'you' and 'us' are going to the 6''. thats a good thing! cant wait to see what shes made of...

as i have both set ups. 88 sedan gl10 FTAWD with Diff lock, and 86 gl wagon with 5 speed d/r. and a 84 hatch with d/r and i have to believe that the d/r is better FOR deep snow and getting out of hairy spots. Though the FTAWD is great for everyday driving, dont have to worry about a thing, need more just hit the switch now its locked in. I think the FTAWD has overall better traction. I wouldnt trade my d/r for anything, the low is just awsome in snow... in fact ive tried getting stuck in the d/r and have only been succesful when the snow is very very wet and heavy, but can usaully get out with low. take it for what its worth.:-\

ok helping a friend work on his car. when he got the car (88 gl wagon w/turbo, 5 speed push button 4WD.) the distributor was out of it... supposedly had a bad timing belt, found out the oil pump was seized. pulled motor, put in new seals, oil pump. when we put the belts in the flywheel was on the center of the three valve timing marks. right?! the cams were 180 out of each other. Right?! now we had the motor in the car going to put the disty back in. we put it on TDC of #1 compression stroke, and the rotor bug pointing to #1 spark plug wire on the cap. all right so far? -if not say so! and please keep reading... then turned it over by hand, came back to say it was in time for the firing order. but when we put the valve timing marks on the flywheel and the housing the cams were out of time or not lined up with the marks on the plastic peices... ah not sure what we did wrong as of right now. Thinking we either have the cams off by a couple teeth or that the TDC of #1 is on exhaust stroke. ? making sense. when we started ot tried to start the car, it kind of popped, not loud but like air was leaking from somewhere, is that the valves opening and closing or am I off with the timing? Where did I go wrong. sorry if I confused you but this has got me! Thanks for reading this post! Any info would be greatly appreciated! oh and the hatch isnt running et, but have the lift on! just need to finish my motor and the interior... later pics I know I know.

ok. so its not rolling yet. ive ran into a few problems- first to get my rear shocks in. i have a set of rear coil overs from a 88 gl wagon. id like to use them! but here is the question- how do i mount them,? lower the mounting part, with a peice of bar as stated in repair manual. i have searched and have got a couple ideas im going out to play with right now. please help any pics, other info you want to throguh at me is welcomed. steering shaft issue? thanks for reading, happy wrenching

awesome. thanks! thats what i needed. someone who has done it and knows it works... oh yea, ive done and am doing all of this work outside- its been getting down to the mid twenties at night already. incentive to hurry up. ? any suggestions on the steering column issue?! again thanks for reading.

thats what i HAVE... im not pouring money into this thing. yet... i want to drive it for a bit. but yea 30 or 31s would look lots better and may give me that little extra clearance when needed. this project is either stuff i have laying around or fab'd myself, or given to me. (exception of front lift blocks- got a h*ll of a deal on it) pics are coming later this week... sorry.

well u may say im taking my sweet *ss time but, for not buying much ive got it about done... the front blocks are in, the trans x-member are in place, now just finishing up the t-mounts for a 5s d/r! thats close to being finished. got the flywheel and bigger clutch ready to go in. The front and rear bumpers are off, painting the replacements... :cool: i cut the rear blocks last night, just have to drill a few holes and dig up some more bolts... they grow wild around my place. weird. j/k then i can put in my rear mustache bar on- sweet one too. just wait youll see. the rear discs are on, have the b-line ext. just got to put them in. it will be rolling by this weekend, and hopefully by the end of the month it will be road worthy! yay, cant wait to see some of the reactions i will get around these parts.. i dont think many have seen a lifted hatch, let alone a Subie. -exception of baccaruda... my one questioin right now is my steering shaft and that biz... i have the column out right now, i need to reduce the angle. do i need to drill a new hole below the orig or just lower the hole? say that ten times fast. any suggestions would be appreciated.!. one more ?. whats the length of a driveline in a hatch fitted with a 5 speed.? sixty something... just cant remember, thats on the important to do list, a driveline. oh yea, the car is a 84 hatch, ive got the works going into this thing. the lift will be of 6'', 28.5 TSLs, and yes fenders are going to be cut dont worry. thanks for reading my rambling update... peace & love thy subie

just a thought... if you made a trailer out of a soob, would you be pulling it with a soob? on that note think that the trailer would be tongue heavy? like the rear axle sits too far back? idk.... good luck and lets see some pics.

....the 'west' coast has its fair share of rusted out soobs-... i see very few soobs that are 'nice' underneath. my 83 gl wagon has seen better days- its lived in several states from new mexixo, to alaska, now washington, who knows where else... it is pretty much gone, no frame rails to jack it up, they are GONE! beleive it or not... also here in wa most soobs and cars for that matter are usually rusted in the same areas, those areas that see the most abuse, and not much care. -think of those in utah- great salt lake- they pretty much use only salt for their roads... it works great for the purpose but has its tolls on machinery/cars. i dont think this to be totally true- as you said most. there are some of us out here who really really do appreciate non-rusted vehicles. you can usually tell the people who take care of their belongings....

the wheel cylinder is on the top of the backing plate, which the hub goes over. there are two sets of notches for the shoes to fit in, and the two pins you refered to, plus the springs. on the bottom backside of the drum, there are bolts to secure it, and has a square bolt with threads on it, thats th adjuster, on eithere sid eof that are bolts to hold in the adjuster. i broke that bolt. flush with the backside of the plate...

ok. on to more questions arising..... for those of you who have duals exhaust on ea81 with lifts. how did you run them, seperate or together? thinking run the two in the oringinal routing place or split them adn run seperate ways... im gonna try to make mine to dump out the sides just before the rear tires or just behind the fronts.... just playing with that idea for now. also, this might be kind of a dumb question to some of you. how do i get the stock bumpers off? their on there pretty good.!? i always forget the stuff i want to ask, i got more coming thnaks for reading!

for the hatch. ive been debating wether to sell or keep it... keep it; it was/is the first car ive ever owned! Subies forever! So pulled out the dash; what a HUGE pita! but got 'er done! kokanee=easy LOL. going to pik'n'pull after work tomorow.... looking to find a good dash and few other small things. already have good heater core unit; thanks monstaru; putting that in, got the 5 speed ready to go in just got to get a clutch... going to start pulling the 4 speed thats in it right now... I know for the hatch i have to shorten the driveline; but forgot the actual length needed... something like 60 inches? bratsrus?! a little help?! probly just have one made up at a shop as i dont have one... and lack the welding experience. other stuff includes front push bar/rear tube bumper, dont know which one to use yet.... found and am buying a set of pugs.... secret locale... hehe. have 28 s.s. for them. only other thing to do is get the motor built up... 1600 pistons, weber, exhaust. thats gonna wait for now, just getting her rolling and driving for now. any thing i left out? some fender cutting, smashing cutting welding, and whetever else it takes.... add please, im getting ideas, been looking at other hatchs' that are jacked and modded... oh yea a SJR lift soon...

i can second that... the idler pulley bolts stripped out. Weird! Heli coiled the two, and no prbolems yet. Shredded the one belt, and it jumped out of time, fixed it all in the schools parking lot... see no timing covers does help at times!!! i could visually see what was wrong, belt was loose adn the idler was all loose too... no covers pays off at times...

ok... is tha black cover thing inside the car, nto in the engine compartment.? and if i let the car warm up to temp then turn on the def/heat it blows warm for a few, 30 seconds then back to cool air. whats the deal? bad heater core, or clogged somewhere? im going to get new heater core hoses, the other two fro the rad. are new. question- is the knob vacuum assisted or on a cable? thanks for any help!

okay... got them all adjusted good. they are solid so yea... thanks on that one. more on this, i drove it about 7 miles, it warmed up to the normal temp line, but no warm air out of the defrost or heater... felt all the hoses, both main radiator hoses were warm adn so were both heater core hoses... hmmm. maybe a clogged heater core? or? what about the hot/cold switch, has anyone ever had them not turn from cold to hot?. or vice versa. another thing- my battery or voltage gauge is saying the lowest it can, doesnt go up when reved up or while driving... same with the oil, doesnt read, im thinking the wire isnt on a good contact... going to clean that tomorow. thanks again. other than those three things the car runs great now, no exhaust leak, no coolant leaks, i replaced alot of those little p.i.t.a. hoses.... later.

the car/motor is a 1984 hatch, ea81 4 speed d/r, has solid lifters... not sure how to tell a hyd. lifter motor from mine, but when i pulled out the push rods they are one peice, thus being sloid lifters right? please correct me if im wrong. thanks- okay, got the gasket kit all in... everything is put back together, in the car and starts right up, sounds good, just a little loud on 2/4 side. i adjusted the valves after putting the heads back on. this is what i did. positioned the rotor to #1 on the cap, then i made sure it was on 0 on the flywheel. checked the gap on both... not so good, got them both to .10 for intake and .14 for exhaust... thats what my book tells me to adjust them to. the on to #3, right it goes in the order of the firing order. am i making sense? turn the crank 180 after each one, make sure the rotor is lined up with the # on the cap that i am adjusting, and to clarify, the exhaust are the valves on the inside, and the intake valves are on the outside... right makes sense... i cant draw a pic but.... yea. my questoin right now is that it runs, has oil pressure, all that... do i need to run it until it is warm, then re-adjust the valves? or do it cold? the book doesnt say to do it cold or warm.... anyone? thanks in advance! more to come too!

yea kinda what i figured too.... not worth the dollar to build the ea82t, that wont compare with a stock ejxx... not sure what IMO or OBDII is? am i stupid? lol. help me out im, looking right now?! also im kinda thinking of getting a JDM motor- any input here, are they junk or decent for this application?! i have read and read on these cars- both the ea and ej cars... the ej207 is the more powerful motor... but is 'supposed' to be ran on higher octane fuel... there are several small differences in the ej20k, ej20g, etc... pretty much any ej20x is better than the ea82t that i have now. ...suberdave- your using the 5 speed from the ea82t? or the 5 speed form an impreza? also are you using the stock ecu that the motor is originally mated with... what other options are there if i cant get the stock ecu... megasquirt, ems... or _____? thank you for your reply... im sure ill be back on with more questions...

alright... not getting the response i was hoping for so... anyone who has done mods to the gl-10t (ea82t)... please add or set me straight. ive heard that some of you have put on a cone filter, added an intercooler, two core radiator... im sure there is more, just cant think of them. im in a battle of actually doing the ej swap or building up the ea82t... this is a big thing for me- i love subies just like all of you! but want to be able to not worry about it dying on me... thanks for reading/posting.

ok im going to go for an ej20(g) turbo from a 2002 wrx.... if i can get it, it has a 6 speed manual trans. with it. i know this whole thing is out there a ways but im going to make it happen. i can and will post pics of the car soon... i know my ft4wd trans wont push the power of a newer wrx motor... but more, cmon some of you guys have tricked out ea82 cars.... boosted balls, dr. rx, i have read most to all of their threads and others that have done similiar mods on these cars.... share! i will....

what else for doing the ej?? swap into an ea82t car- gl10 sedan. its F/T4WD diff lock 5sp... a few things have been done to the car such as- digi dash installed, and the air suspension removed and replaced... not sure what exact parts were used but it sits higher than any other gl10/gl10t/RX/XT/XT6 ive seen. so what can be used besides the original wiring harness. some of you (Dr. RX, doitsidewayz, suberdave) have done mods to the ea series cars. thanks for sharing the info that all of you do. ive read about the megasquirt, does it work with this conversion, if not what does then? or the engine management system... im pulling the ea82t out of the car and looking for an ej20 turbo, or ej22 turbo. i know i either have to match up the tranny to my rear diff/ or get the correct one. driveline? id definately want to keep it manual. is the 5 lug swap an have to? Would I have to use the new ej brakes, rotors and axles for this, or will the gl10 system do? probly know but it is disc all around. also when doing this swap will the car remain awd or 4wd... depending on trans.? and the adaptor plate is only if i use the F/T 5 speed right? im sure i will find more questions to ask... thanx all who has replied and those who do.... i have read and read so please dont tell me to search... thanks for anyone who posts here....

...the rear fuel filter is already off. never put one back one, so maybe thats part of it.

i am going to get the codes... tonite maybe- its like 14 degrees out and... needless to say I lack the luxury of a garage so... maybe when its light out. i have a weber, and an intake that it fits on... going to look at that a little more in depth this weekend.... see what all is needed and what i have. more on that soon. more questions for the wagon- 83 GL ea81 4 s. d/r okay, first it just kinda died while driving down the hwy on the way to work... pull over, sit like a minute or five, starts back up... weird. ok im a little late to work so i push on. it has little power compared to the usual wagon i drive- its gutless...(its the same one but not) use to rap out like 3-5 grand and now it has a hard time going over 4. weird. i get to the bottom of the mtn hill, and kinda dies out but sputters and spits... pull over... checked the disty cap and it had some moisture in it- not sure what is alot so... lets say it was a bit. visually see beads of moisture/water... used a rag- yes it was clean- and wiped it out good. and made sure that all the wires matched the correct pattern, 1,3,2,4. the wires matched up with the cap... started right up and made it to work, back home with no more problems...weird! the next day it does similiar acts... spits sputters, and dies. checked the cap, no moisture in it this time... but the cap and rotor are pretty caked with carbon... probly not a good sign huh? well scraped the contacts to get the carbon off, in efforts of my job i try to make it to work... its 37 miles one way. so not too far. i made it to the bottom of the hill... dies. then nothing... open the disty up and theres a few bearings, just like 5-8 ball bearings. and the two plastic peices, that cover the openings in the disty, not sure of the purpose, just covers i guess. their in it too.... pull it out, the bearings too. scraped the contacts, made it home fine after that... since there was bearings coming out of it it cant be good... got home, got disty out of parts bin- good thing i have lots of parts- and went into town and got a cap and rotor, installed it. first put the motor on tdc, put the flywheel on 0, and made sure the rotor pointed to #1 spark plug wire, where it would sit with the cap on. pulled old disty, put new one in, started up... ran until warm then died... wont start, seems its not getting gas now, i changed out the fule filter with a new one. nothing still. now it wont start... it has spark at all spots, coil, wires and plugs. so its got good spark, tried a different coil... not sure why but did?!. nothing. tried putting a small amount of gas in the carb and it fires right up, but dies after it burns off... havent been able to check the fuel pump, it was 9 degrees this morning. bbrrr.. im lost where to start on this thing this time... thanks guys- GD.

ok... i know ive posted on this car a few times but still no real answers or results. porblem- ecs light under the rpm gauge is on, i havent taken off the cover and read the codes, but will tomorow... and post it. the car has a bad exhaust leak- kinda fixed- but not. i put a heli-coil in the stripped hole... still a little noisy. first q? has anyone ever had a problem with their exhaust flanges being warped? i have brand new exhaust gaskets, still leaks... anyone ever put on donuts? im sure someone has- lets hear it! im thinking of it... the car drives smooth, idles fine, and starts most of the time... sometimes i crank for a while and have to hold it to the floor but.... it starts.?! no one has actually gave a true and blatent answer to what ECS stands for? Electronic Computer System? thats my guess... my manual is out in the shed. ill be reading up there as well, and have spent hours on here reading, searching..... any advice and input is appreciated... thanks... i have more questions coming too reguarding the wagon.... any ever find that when ************ hits the fan it all goes!!! wtf! for those who dont know the car is a 84 gl hatch, ea81, 4 speed d/r......

i need a few things cleared up... are these motors single overhead cams, or dual overhead cams? am i stupid or something... also what car does the td04 turbo come off of?! someone knows.... help. i am going to do this, and am doing it right... so thats why i need your help! thanks!

ok. i have thought of both, the t-stat and radiator. im replacing the rad. and probly not a bad idea to do the t-stat as well. going to get a new cap as well. would i have to take my car to a shop for a pressure test for the cooling system, and what exactly is a leak down test? where do i get a 2 row rad that is compatible with the subies? im looking online..... maybe ill call around this week. the over flow tank or whatever is fine, maybe has oil up in it... :-\ its dirty and i have never filled or used, seen fluid in it or nothing... also im pretty sure that the turbo is leaking somewhere... the lower bolts have a weird white residue on them... stinks like antifreeze... thanks