DerFahrer

I'm not positive what the stuff is, but it's a preventive measure to help keep your Phase II EJ25 from blowing a headgasket like the Phase I EJ25 loves to do so much. It might help your Phase I EJ25 Legacy, but you'd probably have to buy the solution, I don't think a dealer will put it in that car under any recall/warranty.

If you wanted to be illegal, you could swap VIN's from a 2-door Impreza L and probably get the 22B over here. But personally, I wouldn't ruin such a rare car just to get it into a country that's generally boring to drive in anyway

That is most definitely not eye candy, but the mods list is pretty sweet.

Nice car and welcome to the site!

Jon is correct. The Legacy Turbo is the Phase I closed-deck EJ22, and the 22B is the Phase II. The Phase I has oil squirters, the Phase II doesn't even have a place for them, that enough makes the blocks decidedly different. Also yes, the 22B has a different thrust bearing location. This is all sourced from a very knowledgeable Subaru aficionado Matt Monson, search the Legacy BBS for some of his posts.

Yes I replaced my IAC valve and honestly, I think people jump on this too quickly. I tried disassembling mine and cleaning it, and majorly screwed up the whole thing. I bought a new valve for a cool $362 from the dealer out of necessity (FL is a Subaru desert). And to be honest, I've been having the same issues lately even since replacing the valve, so logic suggests that the valve may not be the culprit. Do realize, that the IAC valve is set from the factory much the same way as the various parts of the throttle body are, the stopscrews and the TPS sensor. The electrical part of the valve, held in by those two screws at the top, is set in that exact position from the factory. Removing that electrical part, unless you very accurately mark it, will cause you to permanently lose that setting, and your valve may never work right again. The only way I would service it (and I refuse to touch it now), is to spray brake (not carb, as that may gunk it up worse) cleaner into the main induction nipple that is fed by the intake hose, let it sit for a while for the cleaner to evaporate, and that's it. You really need to make 110% sure you have double-checked absolutely every other possibility for a poor idle before this. Check for vacuum leaks everywhere they are possible, check your O2 sensor, check the aforementioned settings of the throttle body to assure they haven't been tampered with, check your alternator, check your battery, everything. This may sound like overkill, but everything I just mentioned is far cheaper than the IAC valve. That is the last (and most expensive) resort.

Easy, super easy. I can do it in 20 mins. If you're looking at the engine facing the vehicle (driver on your right, pass on your left), and the front of the transmission is a clock, the starter is sitting right around 2 o'clock. Once you see it, you can't miss it. Just pull the wires and remove the bolts (you'll need an extension for the bottom one) and installation is the reverse. And yes, pull your - battery cable.

You crack me up Will Do it and impress us, and don't forget a write-up as you go along

Old gen, and there was never a 93 Loyale Turbo. To my understanding, the last old-gen turbo was a 90 Loyale, and those are pretty rare...

Same here. All I do is shake the radiator and all the bubbles come up to the top. I haven't opened my cooling system in over a year, and everything is peachy.

I was in Discount a few months ago getting some tune-up stuff for the XT (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) and as I was waiting in line, the guy in front of me was asking for parts and I heard him mention Subaru... Now I'm normally a very quiet and reserved individual, you usually have to talk to me first. But this time I couldn't help myself I asked him what kind of Subaru he had, and he said he had an 86 Turbowagon. Since I wanna build one of those, I asked if it was 4WD, but he said it was FWD. Rats! But yeah he said his valves were tapping and he was ordering an oil pump seal kit. I told him he was on the right track, and I pointed out the mickey mouse seal that always goes bad, and I think I offered him a couple other tips. He said the car had 125k on it and I said that's barely broken in I mentioned our URL, but I don't think he remembered it. He thanked me for the tips. But yeah it was cool to meet someone else with a Soob, especially here in Orlando FL which is a Subaru desert.

I wonder if the cup wrench for the Purolator L14460 filter will fit. What I would do is get a new filter, and just take it to Discount or Autozone and find a cup wrench that fits it.

My XT had one on it, the orig owner left it on. I still haven't gotten all the sticky goo off the door panel either Mine said something like: if the engine is cold, use no throttle to start it, if the engine is warm, start it with half-throttle. (I never touch the gas when I start any car)

Did he follow his own suggestion and go with copper ones this time?

You fried the block too??? I knew you fubared the HG, but geez! What HG's did you use that you blew, and what did you replace them with? I'm going to learn from all your mistakes

Sorry to hear that Disbo. It all depends on how much you love the car. I personally would probably throw in the towel if it's over 200k, but that's your call, not mine. XT's are very lovable cars, I know so I understand why you want to keep it. If you do want to part it out, definitely post it over on the XT6 board, I'm sure you'll find buyers for parts, myself possibly included.

It all depends on how you treat them. If you beat the crap out of your Subie and ignore maintenance, yeah it can kick the bucket at 150k. But honestly, there are cars on the road that can kick the bucket at 15k if you abuse them If you maintain the vehicle meticulously, Subarus can easily last 300k. I think someone in the Old-Gen forum has a GL-10 Turbo with like 330k and would you believe the axial play on the turbine shaft is still within spec?? But honestly, since you have the 2.2, don't worry about it. You can beat the crap out of those and still get 200k

Good to hear, although I'm not sure that solved your problem If it comes back on, yes you might be due for a new cat. I'd try some p&p yards to see if they have a good set of exhaust manifolds you can swipe.

Well, since you're getting fuel at the rails you've probly got an injector problem. Unless you're not getting enough fuel, which I would diagnose as an FPR problem. If the pump is getting fuel all the way to the rails, it should be fine. I probably haven't told you anything you don't already know :-\ , but that's all I can think of.

I just had an Orlando Alcyone meet, you all missed it! Tim, it's too bad you can't be in the area for November 20th. Mastro Subaru, who is the most performance-recognized dealership in FL, is having a huge meet that day. I plan to attend...

We'll have to organize something, not this weekend, too short of notice, but something that everyone can attend...

Get a 99 Legacy with the 2.2 engine, and you will have a new car with Subaru's toughest engine ever. I think the headgasket problem on the 2.5's is kinda like the sludge problem on the Toyota V6's. It really won't happen if you're picky about maintenance.

Yep, my XT has 3.70 gears, and every other 4cyl XT I've ever seen (which is like 2 ), is 3.70.

170k miles with good maintenance records? That engine is barely broken in, no I'm not kidding My 91 Legacy has 138k and the engine runs so well, I can still hit the tested top speed of the car when it was new. I've driven brand-new cars that don't run as good as my car. Things to look for: leaking valve cover gaskets (cheap and easy), cracked knock sensors (also cheap and easy), and if the timing belts were done at 120k, might wanna investigate doing those soon. Join the BC-BF Legacy forum, where you'll find tons of useful information and hundreds of active enthusiasts.

www.cvaxles.com supporter #3 right here...