subiefan

Well, the blue coating decreases total lumen output, so they aren't as bright as they can be with that blue coating. And nipper's right. They wash out in the rain. That and they're blinding to oncoming drivers, at least in my opinion. I know the Xtravisions don't last very long either, but I'm willing to sacrafice longeivity for visability. Edit: Maybe Silverstars aren't blue....I know there is one Sylvania makes that is the immitation xenon bulb...

I had previously dismissed using the self-tapping screws because I didn't really think that they would hold. Now I'll have to consider it. Is there a lot of shake when the car is running, or are they pretty stable? Thanks.

Simple. Stock headlights suck. The '93 Impreza has the glass lenses, but lighting ouput still isn't enough. I drive mostly on back roads and rural highways, and when it's dark, it's DARK. I'd like to put some driving lights on, but I have absolutely no idea how to mount them. I'm guessing custom mounts. I know I saw on here somewhere where someone made custom mounting brackets that stuck through the grill.:-\ Any ideas? If not, I'll settle for upgraded headlight bulbs. Sylvania Silverstars are the blue ones, right? And the Xtravisions are clear? I want the clear ones. I don't have the optional fogs/driving lights below the bumper. Not even sure they were available in '93, but the blanks are there. Any input welcome. Thanks in advance.

They're good little cars. I've got a '93 FWD. Wish it was AWD, but I was in need of a car, new to Subies, and the price was right ($1400 3 years ago). It ran good, but the oil looked like crap and was pretty low. The guy knew nothing about cars, and his daughter drove it. It had 165k miles on it then. I'm up to 200k now. It's got the ej22's little brother for an engine -- the ej18. They are almost identicle, and the ej18 is just as reliable, if not more so. The slushbox 4EAT is acceptable. The 5sp would be better. Over all, I'd get if if the price is right and everything checks out. The full-size spare was either added by the owner or it's not full-size at all. To my knowledge, all came with limp-a-longs.

We haven't had any accumulating snow yet this season here in the mountain state. A coule dustings, and that's it. I'm starting to wish I hadn't put my snows on.:-\ Although we do have right around 38 now, and it's been spitting a wintry mix outside. Of course, our weather here is pretty unpredictable, so I'm hoping for some major white stuff. The weather channel shows this as unlikely, though. *sigh* As for tire chains...I've never run them on my Subie before. Or had the need. I just run studded snows. They're noisy but worth it. I've had no trouble at all, even when the road is too icy to stand up on.

Check the basics. Oil, trans fluid (4EAT), dif oil, coolant, etc. Check for matching tires and signs of torque bind. Make sure the FWD fuse is not inserted if Auto. 96 was last year for non-interference ej22. It's pretty much indestructable. 58k is low mileage for that year. If all is well, $4000 sounds more than reasonable. Good luck with the car.

Doesn't the LL Bean have the H6 in it? It doesn't need the Subaru miracle in a bottle Headgasket repair stuff. I dunno. If it's got the ej25 it needs the additive. Congrats on new(er) Sube.

I've got an Impreza with the three dial heater controls. Has anyone ever seen the little gear behind the Temp control break. Mine did. Snapped right off where the cable to the heater box goes into it. I got the part...$12 for a little plastic gear. I tried to put it in about a month ago but gave up. It's a real pain (who has hands that small??) to get the climate control unit out of there...not enough room to work. I've just been adjusting the temp manually by turning the little wheel down on the heater box. Suppose I'll try again when I feel like it. Anyway....anyone ever have this happen before? I thought it was kind of weird. Maybe temperature changes making the plastic more fragile? I dunno.

My '93 FWD has a 15.9 gallon tank. I think the FWD's had 15.9. AWD's were 12.9? Not sure on the numbers, but the AWD tank is smaller to accomodate the rear diff and whatnot. Anyway...8-9 gallons when close to E...that gauge is way off. It takes mine 7-8 to fill up when on 1/4, so my gauge is reading 1/4 under. Sounds like yours is reading 1/2 under. These gauges are pitiful. I just fill up when close to E, knowing that I've got about 1/4 tank left. I manage to get 28-30, mostly highway, and I don't drive like a grandma. Never done anything but oil changes since I got the car 3 years ago, so I'm sure it's in need of a tune up. New plugs and wires are in order, but meh...i'm lazy. Will get around to it eventually.

Mine gets right around the 30 mpg mark, mixed country road/ 2 lane highway/ town. And thats with almost 200k miles on the clock. I've seen 2.2's get around 18-20 in town, but the ej18 should pull better than that, especially being FWD. Somethin's up. Might just need a basic tune up or O2 sensor could be getting lazy. Any dead bodies in the trunk? Just to make sure...you're not going by the gas guage are you? 'Cuz mine reads on a quarter when I've really got a half tank.

Fuel additive is fine. Just try not to do too much "around the corner" driving. If you don't get the engine up to temperature, that stuff likes to gunk up. Like I said...do a computer reset. Go ahead and do that now, if you haven't. Then, if you still don't get any good results, your o2 sensor is probably going kurpluee. The MAF is something completely different. It's not involved here. The o2 sensor I'm talking about is the one in the exhaust...the front one, not the rear heated one. The heated o2 sensor rearely fails. The front one is about $80 USD. Don't know what that is in Canadian, and as usual, prices vary from dealer to dealer. I'm pretty sure aftermarket universals from Autozone and such are ok too.

I once had an old '78 Brat where you had to give the fuel pump a nice hard whack to make it pump. By this time, the poor Brat was a gonner (terminal cancer), and I never bothered to replace it. Just "Kawhack.....Kawhack....Kawhack...Vroom!"

Just make sure they're not too tight. Some idiot at a garage...not my usual one.. did this. I couldn't brake them lose by hand. Had to take them into my regular garage, and even they had trouble braking them lose with an air wrench. Yeesh! I think it bent my rotors too, cause I've had that vibrating feeling when braking for quite a while now.

Reset procedure is the same for OBDI and OBDII if you don't want codes. Just disconnect ground cable at battery or pull the ECU fuse(s). There might be more than one. Don't know for sure. Personally, I always do the battery deal. The only thing I have to reset is the stereo, but if you have a keyless entry/security package, it could cause issues. OBDII doesn't have to idle til warm like OBDI. I usually let them anyway, but the car actually relearns most of it's programming on the road. About topping off....just say no. It won't hurt your fuel mileage, but could damage parts of the evaporative system. Plus it's not good for the gas station's systems either. A lot of times that fuel that you top off with doesn't even go into your tank. It feeds right back down into the station's tanks, and you pay for gas you don't get. Not good with the prices these days. It would make your mileage appear lower, as the pumps says you put more gallons of fuel in than you actually did. If you think you got bad gas, a fuel system cleaner wouldn't hurt. Be careful with that stuff, though. If you don't run your engine hot enough (short trips around the block, etc.), it can actually gunk up your injectors and whatnot worse than before. Jeeps are bad abou it because they run so cool. Seafoam and MM are more oil-based cleaners, and don't tend to do this. If your bad mpg doesn't go away, I'd start to suspect a lazy o2 sensor. If it turns out to be your gauge that's loony, there's some stuff that will clean up your senders...Techron, I think. I think Nipper here has recommended it. I just live with mine. I live out in the middle of nowhere, and don't like to let it get too low anyway.

MMO- Marvel Mystery Oil is supposedly good for the tick of death. Pour the suggested amount into your oil. The oldtimers swear by it. Can also be put in your gas. It's a mighty good fuel injector cleaner, and won't gunk up like the jet fuel based ones if you don't run the engine hot enough. Theoretically could be poured down the intake as well. It worked fine on the lawnmower, but boy did it smoke. The stuff comes in a red bottle. Any part store or Wal-Mart should have it. Can't really say from experience if it will take care of your trouble, but I have heard various success stories. Pretty much what you do is pour this stuff in and run the crap out of it. EA82 tick of death is harmless. Don't know about ej22, but it probably is also harmless, albeit anoying. I feel your pain. Everyone thinks my car is on fire when I stop from a slow oil leak right over the exhaust.

I've got the same thing going on. Just seems like the gas gauge is dropping too fast. Need to measure the mileage with the trip odometer and the gallons at fill-up. I'm guessing that either my gas guage is three resistors shy of a full load or my o2 sensor is going kaploee. But I'm not usually the one that takes it to the gas station, and when I do, I never remember. Will get around to it eventually. Back on to your question: I have seen an ej22 get 17-18 mpg before. Reset the computer and all was well.:-\ My best guess is that it got a batch of bad gas run through it. Your are measuring your mpg by the gas gauge, correct? This is how you measure mpg the right way: 1.) Fill up until pump shuts off. Don't top off. 2.) Reset trip odometer to 0. 3.) Drive around until you need to fill up again. 4.) Go ahead and fill up again like before. Technically, you should use the same gas pump as before. 5.) Write down the number of gallons that your car held. 6.) Now divide the miles on your trip odometer by the number of gallons you just put in. 7.) You now have your MPG. If your mpg turns out to be really low, you could try and reset your ECU. I've seen it work, and probably would if bad gas was the problem (after fill-up with clean gas, of course). If your o2 sensor has never been replaced, it's probably getting lazy and causing the trouble. Sorry 'bout the long-winded post. Cheers.

I think there's something about single port/dual port exhaust conflicts. Don't know what years came with what. Someone smarter than me will have to let you know. Otherwise, anything OBDI should bolt and wire up just fine. Watch out for EGR. If your current engine has it (my '93 Impreza does), then you would be better off sticking with an engine that has it too. If you don't, the computer will be hunting for the EGR components and give you a nice, friendly, full-time CEL.

That's Chitlons for ya. I've got the same book, and in many cases it does not list the procedure for the ej18. If it says 1.8L, it's probably talking about the ea82. I know for a fact that the pump is internal on the Impreza. Look under Impreza 2.2 in the book. The procedure should be the same. Go back to the parts store and specify that you need the pump for a '93 IMPREZA. Don't say 1.8, as they all were in that year.

Finally someone new with a FWD (aka Rear Wheels Paralized) ej18. The ej18 really isn't as gutless as it's made out to be...not when matched with FWD. I'd imagine the AWD models aren't going to be setting any speed records, but the FWD ones will really scoot with a little encouragement. Not that I'm a speed demon, but I do like to avoid getting smacked into when pulling into traffic. There's not really much aftermarket for these cars...not unless you're burning a hole in your wallet. If you want aftermarket, you're going to pay for it. Personally, I'd just appreciate your engine's reliability and gas mileage.

I'd guess it's injector #3 that's giving you your trouble. A hard 1-2 upshift is normal. As long as all the other shifts are smooth, it's probably fine. Just a Subaru thing. I wouldn't worry too much about the oil leak. Just keep it full and fix it when you change your timing belt. I'd worry more if your Subie isn't leaking. My God! It's out of oil!

So it seems that the '95 Legacy was OBDII, but the '95 Impreza was OBDI. Ditto on the powerband. Low revs = gutless turd. High revs = Vroom Vroom, Gone! Kind of interesting with my 4EAT. That 1-2 upshift is HARD when you really goose it. It shifts smoothe as silk if you drive like Grandma...stupid slushbox. Two more words: gas mileage. With gas priced like gold, I'm glad to have the ej18. The 2.2's gas mileage is usually pretty sucky. Back to the original question. You can do the swap if you want, but I'd at least drive the car for a while and see how you like it. You might be surprised.

Yeah. Look for a diagnostic port. It's in the little storage pocket in the dash to the left of the driver. I think '95 is OBDII, but the switchover may have happened mid-year. BTW...Is the car AWD? The ej18 is pretty peppy when matched with FWD, but I don't think it would fare so well with AWD. Too much extra weight. I have a FWD '93 Impreza. It does pretty well above about 3.5k RPM:brow:. The power doesn't really start coming on until then. In other words...don't try stopping on a steep hill.

Are you set on a new car? If not, an older Legacy might be a good choice. 90-94 Legacys, even though they are getting a little old, are very good cars. The pre- 1996 ej 22 (2.2 litre engine) is pretty much bulletproof, and the cars can top 200k easily. Be wary of the autos though. If they don't shift smoothly, or if the tranny fluid looks burnt, run away! The 4EAT is a good transmission, but it tends to self-destruct if not well taken care of. Non-matching tires come to mind. The ej22 doesn't get stellar gas mileage, but it is decent (comparable to a small v6, rather than a 4 banger), and it's a pretty peppy engine. The 5 spds are quicker, but even the autos are quick on their feet. If you are set on a new car, a new Legacy or Outback would probably work well. The Outback is pretty much the same as a Legacy wagon, just with more groudn clearance. Higher end models are available with an H6. Stay away from older OB's. They will have the phase I 2.5, with headgasket problems of plenty.

^ '95 sounds right. Anyway, there's really nothing wrong with having a different engine from the original. They're almost identical, and it's a direct, bolt-up, plug in (?) swap. As long as it runs and drives fine, I'd get it. For 1500 bucks its a steal. Would be nice to know the miles on the engine, though.

As far as I know...nope! Unless it's been swapped, that car should have an ej18 in it.