subiefan

If the car is not running but the switch is on, the computer tests all of the warning lights, including the CEL. As far as I know, it will do this if the car has shut off, as well as before you start it. Sorry 'bout that. No specific codes I can think of.

The fuel filter is in a round canister about the size of a soup can on the driver's side, behind the battery. There should be...I think 3 hoses...connected to it. Any auto parts store should have the filter. The CEL should always be on if the car is not running but switch is on. Still wouldn't hurt to check the codes, though.

I had a bottle of that power steering fluid sitting around, too. This wasn't with my Subaru. Was actually my Ford Ranger. The fluid already in it was red...the stuff in the bottle was clear. I put the ATF in it instead. I'd do the same for your Subaru, especially if it says to use ATF. There's really no reason not to change it. Just get a cheap turkey baster or something to suck the old out with, then pour in new Dexron. Try not to drive the car so the clear stuff doesn't circulate through the system.

I knew that. I think that was early this year, though. Oh, well...back on topic. You're right, nipper. There's always going to be a few rotten apples in the bunch. It just happens. Hope you get your GT back on the road soon, Gravityman. Or the XT6.

Yup. Pull the air box and the windshield washer tank. Makes it a lot easier to get in there. If they haven't been changed in a long time, the wires probably are stuck on there good. Have a good pair of pliers on hand for when they break and leave those little metal end thingies stuck to the coil. The plugs might be tight too. It would be a good idea to duct tape your spark plug socket to the end of your ratchet extension. You don't want that thing falling down the plug tunnel. Put some anti-seize compound on the new plugs, to make removal next time easier.

You can do a Seaofoam/MM treatment without the fish tank regulator, too. Warm the car up well, then find a central vacuum line (so all cylinders will be cleaned equally. Disconnect the hose at the other end (not at the throttle body) and stick it down in some of the cleaner. The engine will probably want to stall. Work the throttle to keep it running. After it sucks up the cleaner, shut if off and let it sit for a while to loosen the carbon. Then start it up and run it at a moderate...probably around 3k revs, until it quits smoking. Be sure you hook the vacuum line back up first. Never acutally done the treatment, but I was surprised no one else chimed in with it. Supposedly, it works quite well.

Hope you enjoy your trip. I hear ya on the mom and pop hotels. The area where I am used to be Mom and Pop Country. Sadly, big corporations are taking things over, and Wal*Marts are springing up everywhere. 'Bout the only thing left here are the eateries. The little stores and bed & breakfast places are long gone. Hope you can track down your fog lights, too. I'd like to have some, both front and back. We don't have fog too often around here, but when we do, it rolls in like pea soup. Creeping down the road at 5 mph with your hazards flashing, hoping someone doesn't slam into you isn't very enjoyable.

I'm not much of a tire person, and tend to get what's good but still cheap. I'd go for the Michelins. Don't know much about the Pilots...there all-seasons, right? If so, I wouldn't. I face snow every winter, so I run cheapies in the summer and dedicated snows in the winter. I guess it really depends on how much money you have to throw around. With 80k, your Outback isn't even broken in yet! These cars can go over 200k easily. My '93 Impreza is sitting at 193k...I'm almost there. I'd still trust it more than a brand new piece of GM garbage. Plus it's a lot easier to work on. Those transverse V6's are a joke to work on.

Does it do it while parked? What about when the A/C on? A/C off? Get worse when turning the steering wheel? If it was the power steering, it probably would. It doesn't sound like the sound the ps pump make when the wheels are turned all the way in one direction, does it? I've seen the a/c compressor make what I'd call a whirring sound. Didn't do it when the a/c was off. BTW...what car and how many miles?

It kinda seems like Subaru picked up some of GM's quality control, or lack thereof, doesn't it? Seriously, though...I just don't think the new Subes are quite as reliable as the older ones. That's pitiful...major engine failure after less than two years. *sigh* At least it's under warranty.

I believe distance from the airbag has a lot to do with it too. So if she's going to sit in the front, at least slide the seat back. I know very short people are often injured by the airbag from sitting too close to it. At least with the driver...I would think the same would apply for the passenger.

I've got an old electric horn off of a junked 1950's dump truck in mine. Ya know...big and red, shaped like an air horn. I put it in the empty space in front of the air box on my Impreza. It's not bolted down, but is well wedged into place. I just wired it up to one of the stock horns, so now all three sound. Before I did this, my car let out a pitful "meep meep" upon hitting the horn button. Now it gets people's attention, without being overly loud and annoying.

Came back for an update....why? Thanks for all the mental imagery folks. I'm gonna be digging at my mind's eye for weeks now. Sheltered? I don't know how one who's lived here all their life couldn't be. At least the part of WV I'm from. My closest neighbors are cows... But it's beautiful...until your down-wind of the cow field, that is. Locals: *What's a Suubaaruu??* For that matter...*What's a transexual? Don't you mean transmission? No, I mean transexual. Well what do you have, automatic or manual?* Thanks for the bad joke. Now I'm gonna think of it every time I get in the car...

Is it good stuff? I know the old-timers swear by the stuff. I did a search on here, though, and read a couple horror stories. I would use Seafoam, but I'm paranoid of it too. Another horror story, involving a relative's diesel tractor. Still a bit afraid of it, though. But anyway. Is MMO ok to put in the gas tank, as a fuel injector/fuel system cleaner. I've used it in carbed engines before with no issues, but I'm not sure how fuel injectors handle it. I know it seems to clean more gently than Seafoam, and I don't have massive clogs or anything, so I thought it might be better. I've used all kinds of dump-in fuel injector cleaners, even the good stuff, and it never seems to make a difference. My Subie isn't running bad, but she doesn't idle as smooth as she used to, and power is down a bit. You can't schluck MM down the intake like Seafoam, though, can you? I know it seems a bit oiler. I'm planning a plug and wire change soon, too, as it's way over due. I don't know when (if? ) the P.O. changed them. Read up a bit on Seafoam...It kinda sounds more like what I want. Which do you guys think is better? Seafom or MM? Anywho...whatcha think? Thanks for your opinions. '93 Impreza, 193k mi.

According to the handy dandy Google Calculator, that's $94,535 (US). Ouch! Is this due to importation taxes?

Being stranded in the middle of nowhere is no fun. Never done it in my Subaru, but I've had several domestic clunkers leave me up the creek without a paddle. I can see where water and the MAF might not mix. You'd think the darn thing's made of gold by the price, though. I'm really hoping mine doesn't decide to give up the ghost anytime soon. Don't much feel like scrapin' out the ol' bank account. I really like the new Legacy sedans, myself.

I stumbled across the wikipeida article about a week ago. Makes you want to poke out your mind's eye, doesn't it. I did NOT need to know any of that.

Hello, and welcome to the board. Sorry that you've got a problem though. Is your car showing any other symptoms, besides a CEL? In other words, is it running badly? If not, you can disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes, press the brake pedal to discharge the system completely, then reconnect. The CEL should go away. If the light comes back, then check the codes. On the other hand, if it's running badly, you can check the codes yourself, without a code reader. It involves connecting certain wires and counting the flashes of the CEL. There are some good instruction on how do to this on this site: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html Click on Notes & Tips, then on Engine Related. Theses instructions are for a Legacy, but the procedure should be the same for your Impreza. If you have a service manual, there should be a trouble code table in it. If not, report back to us here with the code, and someone will be happy to look it up for you.

I suppose the engine would physically fit, but it's ECU would have to come with it. '93 Impreza is OBDI. Not sure when STi's were introduced here, but I think it was after '95. So your STi engine is going to be OBDII. I doubt it if the 5MT tranny in your car is strong enough, either. The STi tranny is a 6MT, but all STi's are AWD. Anywho...you're looking at a major project. If you have a donor STi (wrecked or somthing) and the time, it might be worth it. Honestly though, I'd drop in an ej22T from an early turbo Legacy if you want more power. They're plenty powerful, and reliable too, and the 5MT from your Impreza is sturdy enough for it. It pretty much bolts right up. There's some electrical work involved, but there are a few people around here who have done it.

Don't know about your '97, but for my '93, the interval is 60k miles. 60k is a bit low; 80k is more reasonable. I believe at some point the interval changed to 105k miles, but I'm not sure when. Personally, I'd go ahead and change it. It can't hurt, and as your engine is of interference design, you're better safe than sorry. While you're in there, you'll wanna replace the cam & crank seals, as well as reseal the oil pump. Some also suggest replacing the waterpump, but that really depends on who you ask. It's probably still ok 78.5k, but Subies don't like overheats. I say every other t-belt change.

Well I guess we do have the same problem. That's eactly what mine does. I think my rear defroster makes it slightly worse, too, but maybe I've just got a more advanced case. Have fun with the wiring. And post an update if you find it. I would dig into mine, too, but I'm not very good with wiring, and this car is my only daily driver. It's a nuisance I've been living with for over 2 years now, and it won't hurt me to put up with it for a while longer. BTW...I know your question was rhetorical, but my 4EAT shifts fine. I suppose it's still possible, though.

And my radio doesn't wire into the dash lights, and is therefore not dimming. Got it. I guess that means it's probably a localized problem in the dash area. Just a thought: Does the dimming happen if the gearshift is in neutral, instead of park? (so the park lock solenoid isn't activating)

I'm back to thinking its a ground issue, then. Something worth noting is that only the stock radio dimmed. I've since replaced it with an aftermarked HU, which doesn't dim when the headlights are on, (the darn thing's lit up like Las Vegas after dark) and it doesn't dim. Everything else does, though. Headlights, dome light, and all. Oh, well. It's not really a problem, anyhow, but it is sill annoying.

I got to thinking about it some more, and I'll second a weak alternator. My lights dont dim if you rev the engine up a bit first.

I did some research over at Edmunds.com. Seems that in 1999, the Legacy Outback and the GT got the ej25, while the Legacy L and the Brighton got the ej22.