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Dan this is classic govenor problem Did you debur the shuttle following my instruction in the repair manual or did you just clean it off? you may want to get a boneyard unit and try it BTW you have a steel worm drive gear so very doubtful you have it apple cored. This happened to the nylon worm gears.

Connected my 0-scope to check spark voltage Looked great?? Decided to rev it abit so grabbed the throttle cable and pulled. She stumbled but then rev'd fine and the spark got better as it should with my ignition system. Did it again as I felt a strange "wind" blowing on my hand?? No mechanical fan on her so where was the blowing coming from? Did some searching and--- I have the IC connected to the factory intake plenum in such a way as to cause a forced fit - this done so it could not "blow apart", so I thought. Well it had moved to a less than tight fit, therefore at low boost levels and off boost, it fit and sealed fine. Read no leak. BUT when the boost pressure got high enough, the hose blew back a bit and allowed leakage. Lower the boost and the design pushed the hose back into a sealed position. So much for over engineering?? I am designing a better solution for the intake plenum. Well -- Same fuel squirt with less air yields a rich mix - bingo. Thanks for all the help on this one, it did have me going for a bit. Thanks especially to ______,as he had suggested this but at a different connection location. As an aside, I like to look at the positive side of everything - a lot of things got cleaned and adjusted in pursuit of the solution. She is running better than before the problem. Still no CRX killer (I am a realist) but keeps up with traffic. Boost on brothers but keep them hoses tight.

DC I have a few of the mods you speak of Here is a pict of a few, I run a croba style hood scoop on my 87 wagon, seems to do a fair job I have many temp sensors (air filter, throttle body, oil, H20 ect) all with digital outputs http://www.westol.com/neper/willyengwdescsmall.jpg email me if you have any questions neper@westol.net

ah actualy the Subaru engineers must have given thought to the problem that a blow off valve or By Pass valve is suppose to solve. (i.e. the boost pressure bouncing off a rapidly closed throttle plate and hitting the turbo's impellor thus slowing it down.) They did this by using a "dash pot" Little known and not often mentioned devise slows the throttle closing just before idle and allows some of the boost pressure leak by the throttle butterfly. I have a Volvo By Pass valve unit fitted to my 87 5 speed turbo and it does help a little compared to the well adjusted dash pot. Newer cars use BPV's because they have higher factory boost pressures. Here is a link to a picture of a few of my mods It is a Starion intercooler BTW http://www.westol.com/neper/willyengwdescsmall.jpg email me if you have any questions neper@westol.com

Has anyone ever used or have any info on using a tranny "lube pump" to tow a 4EAT four down? One manufact. is REMCO here is a page with their system listed http://www.towingworldclermont.com/Towing%20World%20~%20Remco%20Product%20Center.htm

Arche and Caleb are correct, it is a close match to an American size and I do think NAPA can special order it from their master cat. Tom will come to the rescue, remembering Caleb wants the temp gage sender unit size (or if they are the same?)

infinitely variable boost pressure control I have my igniton timing set up that way actually uses a manual choke knob and cable. I have never seen a part number for cable only in Hallman's set up. There is what you are refering to eh? It appears to be as you said a cable turned "volume control" for the boost pressure The cable turns the black knob on this This is the one I now use BTW. Seems to be a simple "rig" You do not have to turn the knob very much so a flat disc fastened to the knob and the turn the disc like you open close a lawn mower throttle or choke Okay I'll get back at ya on this one.

Dan, mine is connected tot theconstant (read non switched) hot wire. Mine is an HKS but they should be similar. And yes it should come on automaticly and NOT come on in the acc. position. I do turn mine off after a short run or when I'm doing some testing

sorry Arche, they are metric I will look in my adapter supply came with an oil pressure gage set up and see If I have a match (the adapters are marked in metric sizes the gage fitting is 0.125 NPT) Which by the way is for National Pipe TAPERED as there is a NPS for straight threads

The IC fan does help so my temp sensors tell me I have digital thermometers for several items. I have one in the air filter and one mounted in the throttle body just above the throttle butterfly, one for oil and one for coolant, and inside and out side temps. Any how, my IC fan is wired to only blow during boost conditions. It is controlled by a factory boost switch and a relay. I have a SPDT switch to diable it or test it. Leaving it disabled shows approx 20 deg temp diff (increase over the throttle plate) when on an extended boost run. I guess you could wire it to keep the IC cooler all the time but my hood scoop does a pretty good job by itself. (from it's blade size and RPM I'm guessing it's around 350 cfm - makes a lot of air move) Hope this helps

Dan, did you try the last connection set up I emailed you?

Craig is correct you must connect the green connectors, you may find yours by the drivers side hood hinge. No year is given so they may be there or beside the ECU as Craig says

I second Caleb, you can not remove the CV like you can the DOJ you must buy the complete axle. Some rebuilds are shoddy to say the least Caveat Emptor and you usually get what you pay for.

I'm sorry to report that to the best of my knowledge some of the info given here is incorrect. First: the code refers to the EGR solenoid Not the valve or it's plumbing. The solenoids have a tendency to go open electricly. Fixing hoses or valves will have no effect on the code. Second:, disconnecting the battery will not clear codes stored in the ECU, it will only reset the ECU's "learn mode" To clear the codes both sets of connectors -- the "test mode" connectors (green) and the "read memory" connectors (black sometimes white) -(BTW these are the ones you must connect to get stored codes). and then turn the key to run You must fix the problem for it to be erased, that much was correct. Here is another link you should read http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

ARCHE Do what you want but you have it a bit backward. an IC helps but does not bring down the combustion temps to a level below detonation. The extra fuel helps. Your max HP without longevity is not what I want. Now for an update I have recently watched warm up and it is transfering from open to closed loop, the FICS must be working. checked the return line to the tank - open got my CIS fuel pressure test gage out and rigged a fuel pressure tester - when the over rich condition happens I'm showing 45 psi. The FSM calls for 33.6 psi above intake manifold pressure (stumble occurs at ~ 8 psi) I deem it close enough. I removed, cleaned and recharged my K&N using the factory recharge kit as per instructions. This is a minor PITA as it is mounted under the the inner fender. Any one that thinks these don't work have never cleaned one!! Result - no change exactly the same Guys I love a challenge as much as the next guy but I'm running out of options. Could the cat be partialy collapsed? It idles fine, thi holds a good vacuum at cruise and has power until the over rich condition happens. My next check is maybe trying a different ECU. Any other ideas?

Have you considered changing the coolant temp sensor (it's on the upper rad goose neck) or maybe adding an aftermarket gauge to check the factory gauge

The ideal stoichiometric ratio is a very dangerous (read lean) condition to run in a turbo car when on boost. The extra fuel is used to cool the combustion chamber temp and avoid the dreaded detonation.

Thanks Adam, my bad. You are obviously correct. Me mind, it tends to go on vacation more and more lately.

No Art, it will not run with the dist. 180 deg out. As the fire in the hole would be occurring when the valves are on "rock" (one opening(intake), one closing(exhaust)) You must be lucky as it's a fifty fifty flip of the coin.

I would like to clarify some terms I used open loop - this is when the engine is cold and the ECU is using pre-programed maps for fuel enrichment, it ignores the 02 sensor in this "mode" as it also is not up to op. temp. My meter sits static slightly lean at this time (02 sensor is not putting out due to this) closed loop - this is the mode the ECU switches to after the FI coolant thermosensor tells it that the engine is approx. 140 deg F The ECU now watches the 02 sensor output and switches the fuel delievery map from a rich condition to a lean condition, thus the "tick tock" seen on analog meters. Jay, I have an analog (swing needle) type A/F meter. It swings from a rich condition to a lean condition, the frequency of this metronome action varries with engine load and speed. Pat. thanks I'll test it, no lift on this wagon, no changes in the fuel delivery sytem but worth a look. Just seems to my feeble mind that if this were the case it would be rich at all speeds esp. lower power delivery as less fuel is needed. This is not the case, it is fine under 7 psi of boost. Although One reason this may be the case is that after a certian MAF reading is reached (high air flow) and the engine RPM is high enough the ECU switches all fuel control over to the FPCR as the injectors are at their saturated state. (I have seen this on my 0-scope when I had it connected to the injector pulse output) At this point if the fuel pressure where at an elevated point the car would go super rich, as is the case. Thanks for the replies

VooDOO Art missed one little thing. The engine must have number 1 on it's compression stroke for you to do this. Number one cyl. is the front cyl on the pass. side (speaking American here) Place a ball of cotton or such over the no.1 spark plug hole as you rotate the engine, if the cotton "pops" out you are on compression (you could try to hold your thumb or other diget over the hole) Now line up the timing mark for TDC or "0 deg" The rotor will turn as you put the dist. in, so turn the rotor back before inserting so that when the dist. is seated the rotor points at the number one spark plug tower. (you could mark the dist. housing before hand as to where the number 1 sp.plug tower is) Proceed as Art says Hope this helps

Jon, no the turbo has duel port heads and the SPFI has single port heads. The injectors on a EA82T are in the manifold and the injectors on a EA81T are in the head - both have two intake ports The carb and the SPFI heads have only one "siameased" intake port. The EA81 and EA82 single port manifolds can be swapped. Hope that answers your last question.

Thanks for the reply, Brett I have watched the A/F meter and it is definitely going into closed loop, I think this tells me the ECU is seeing the engine temp via the coolant sensor, but I will check it. Thanks for the idea.

note: this is a continuation saga from the old EZ board Vehicle: 87 turbo wagon 5 speed 4wd "James Bond button" on gear lever Modifications: IC and boost pressure control valve, plus a few other go fast goodies Problem: at about 7 psi of boost, engine goes extremely rich, stumbles and black smoke is evident out of exhaust pipe. History: Problem came on all of a sudden, one day it was fine, next day problem. I made no modifications. Power delivery is still fine at lower boost levels and car idles well. (I have a boost gauge and air fuel ratio meter) Boost appears to come on gradually as normal - no evidence of collapsed cat. A/F goes to full rich as normal when intake manifold goes positive. Engine is going into closed loop indicating coolant sensor is operating. A/F meter "tick tocks" as usual at normal cruise speeds. No Check engine light. Have tried new MAF new spark plugs disabling hi energy ignition changed timing through entire arc removed By Pass Valve tested and checked TPS operation against FSM verified all vacuum/pressure connections checked cap and rotor Next stop? Fuel pressure regulator? Why only at elevated boost levels? ECU is out to lunch (never heard of this but first time for everything?) Thanks for reading and any suggestions. All comments will be addressed

Monkster, I have built several boost pressure control mechanisms including an electricly operated one. The trick part is the spring - too low a rate and boost creep occurs too high a rate and the opening closing spreads out the boost pressure window. As for making it controlable from the cockpit. Maybe several at different pressures could be wired to solenoids so you could choose the boost for the situation. I just leave mine at 14 psi and use my loud pedal for control. Remember an IC will drop some boost pressure, so meter after it, the factory gets it's control pressure right at the turbo outlet. Hope this helps