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If you are testing for spark at the coil high tension wire the cap is not in the picture - soto speak. If you need these parts (dist or amp) I am sure I could dig them up shot me an email or PM and I'll send them. Might be dark enough there now?? to do the check for the small yellow spark I spoke of.

plus someone before you could have run mismatched tires If you try WA's test you will need two people to turn both wheels.

EVO if it is the vicous coupling removing the rear portion of the drive shaft will prove it. (eight bolts and nuts) You could drive it like this. Harry's has to have a tranny for you? Callem for a price. Or use http//:http://www.car-part.com

Brian try this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5245&d=1189880902 Scroll down for the SPFI sections It will give you wire colors which connector and numbers

Brian, when my Ig Amp went it did the same thing. I did not check for codes - sorry this was almost 10 years ago. Had the Subaru dealer stumped, they were going to throw an ECU at it. I did change the dist - same thing -sometimes start sometimes no start sometimes start stumble die. I'll see if I can find the pin out and connector diagram if Cougar doesn't beat me to it. I was under the assumption that the coil will show battery voltage on one side if the ig relay is functioning. I could be all wet here - Cougar will set me straight. Off to do some looking. Edit for one more thing When my Ig Amp was bad. If I held the coil output wire real close to a ground and it was semi dark out. I could see a very small spark when it was cranked.

pull the line off of the vacuum modulator (low on the pass side of the tranny almost at the front) IF you see AFT that's the new problem.

WA sure sounds correct, as usual. You could remove the rear portion of the driveshaft to prove this. Tires all match?

Welcome aboard the good ship USMB Nice wagon. Thanks for sharing, sure looks like a lot of potential there!! Might want to put a plate on it if you are going to use it on the road.

UB, man are you sure you cut the slot long enough when attempting the fix? Did you use a 8mm nut and bolt to clamp it? If you want to weld something look up my short shifter mod for the shifter. My Brat is tight and short (I did not shorten the lever) I've had it like this for two years -> no slop.

C F I put mine in the line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail. Remember aside from some line loss - any point from the fuel pump up to the FPR would be equal pressure. Incidentally, I was not real excited about having a pressurized fuel line running into the cockpit so I used an electric oil pressure gauge. The diaphragm in the sender is made to face all sorts of gas oil mixtures. May not have been as accurate as a pure mechanical unit but ..... To quote Sir F. Zappa - NO Poofters. Hope this helps.

Thanks Connie and congrats again glad this one worked out. Just amazing the shape of the body ect. Well done young lady, very well done.

?? Tex gave you this "From what I've been told and read, you do not wnat to run 2 FPR, so you will need to replace the stock one with the RRFPR." AUsubaru gave you this "So you will want to replace the factory FPR with your new AFPR." That is the way I figured it would have to work. Your diagram shows this also?? Don't you believe them?

Okay guys, way kewl talk on the 360's I like 360s also and would like to see yins start a thread for them.... but remember this is a post on Connie's new ride. Wish we could get some more pictures of it ahhh um Rob ??? Thanks for understanding.

My humble appologies to Mr. Dbullen. It was not my intent to turn this into mileage debate. You may use more petrol in the H6 or it may be close to the 4 cyl. I would like to steer thi more in reference to your question. We drove both the Limited OB (4 cyl) and the VDC (H6) back to back - both brand new. The ride, power, comfort, road noise (see the note on this in the link) were so far superior in the VDC as compared to the Limited.... To us it was a no-brainer. Hope this helps.

thanks Porc, I'm sorry I was not more specific the switch/sender does have the British thread as you correctly say. The adapter I was speaking of is screwed into the block the sender screws into this - must be only early EJ's. (1995 in question here) Thanks for the pre oiler info looks kewl. I'm watching Pesty's post also. NOSit We need your picture posting expertise.

Yo Porc, nice write up and thanks for the documentation. If I remember correctly, when Davebugs and I were testing the OP on the Leg from 'ell There is an adapter the oil pressure switch screws into that is then screwed into the block - this is the factory set up on the early Leg. When he removed this factory part, the threads in the block were the same as a spark plug - straight not tapered, used a copper washer to seal. This part might be easier to find localy than a britsh pipe standard fitting. Hey now - part Porc you using some form of pre oiler .... The tank with the solenoid valve in the back ground. Or you sneeking some NOS in there??????

Backwoods, your buffer is bigger than mine. ;^) Found it at http://www.Salvagedirect.com Davebugs showed me the site, it's one yard is local. Look close that is/was an EJ25 How you say B-Gon

" When I did a search for the Dulop SP60's" I have a set on my 03 VDC. But mine are Dunlops They ride harder than the BadYears I took off. But thats the price one pays for 60 series. They are make a bit more road noise but that's the price one pays for ..... Traction is very good but it's a VDC with LSD so I can't comment on your car. I have only had them for around 1 kmi so I can not comment on the ware factor. Price was right and they are mounted on a spare set of GT alloys just for the winter months. Sorry not much help.

1999 Forestoaster

WA's explaination is why I thought they were necessary. The corn-fusing part to me is the "Not necessarly."

use a multimeter to measure the coil's resistance should be about 35 ohms

I do not want to disagree with the Rooster but we get 28 - 24 in our VDC about the same as all of our other EJ22 Legacys we have except for the turbo models. Note this is the pretty half's ride and it is treated rather polietly.

I concur, WA nailed it. My 94 has (had) that setup. I knew it looked familiar. That is why I went out and looked at Oh Bee. Now the question of the hour Are spring bolts necessary at the donut connection?

Halifax as in NS? We own an 03 H6 with all the trinkets (70 Kmi) They were sold here as the "VDC" The VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control) helps a lot in the snow. Heated seats, mirrors and windshield sure are nice this time of year. Real nice MacIntosh 6 CD indash stereo. I didn't want to drive an advertisement for LL Bean. The H6 has not shown the problems the earlier EJ25s have. No timing belt keep the oil clean and it's supposed to be trouble free for 200 kmi. Spark plug changes -- well lets not go into that. The years you ask about are the years when they got the EJ25 corrected or so the board info goes. Hope some of this helps.

I have to say thanks to both of you for the pictures. They sure help us in the visualization of the components. I also have to say thank you both for having the common sense to resize the pictures as to not blow over the screen width. That is quite irritating -- for me anyways.