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Stark says " Car was towed to a mechanic" Hope this is not to be take "ver-baitum"?? as he may have more issues than just a FUBAR'd engine.

Nipper did you get this line from Clem Piddlehopper? "this is a very rare but not uncommon failure." Just wanted you to know your levity is not wasted. You crack me up.

not mentioned yet as far as I see is the green connectors under the lower dash panel, MUST be connected when setting the ignition timing with a timing light.

It is possible that the circuit was designed back when the drivers window had the auto UP feature also. (eighties GL models I believe some very early Legacys) This may have been a safety factor for Justin C. Justin Case an object (hand, head, cat ect) got in the way of the window closing. The feature could have been carried over with no new parts / engineering needed.

The fuel/vapor separtor is new to me. Which 71's had the offset starter? Is this a "fatcase"?? here is the link EA71

It was my understanding that the auto down (and or up in the older units) Worked via a logic circuit that watches the current the window motor is drawing. When the window hits it's stop the current increase causes the circuit to turn off the power to the motor. I would try and find a boneyard power window control unit (some where under the fnt pass seat, I believe)

glad it's fixed thanks for the update BTW no need to re-bleed the brakes unless the pedal is "spongey" or pumps up. The light goes on way before the cyl is out of fluid.

Congrats Tom, glad to read you got it fixed. Many thanks for the update/follow up. Guys like you are what makes the board so valuable.

"But odds are the diaphram in the cap needs to be pushed back in". I don't know where Nipper is going with this but some people may read it as the switch is located under said diaphram. (The one under the master cyl cap) Although some older Subies did have the switch in the cap, in my Legacys the switch is located in the bottom of the master cyl. It is a magnetic reed switch. A small magnet located in a white float turns the switch on when the fluid is low. The magnet pulls the reed switch closed. I have had this float stick in it's well.

Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder. As the pads ware, the fluid level drops because the pistons move out. The brake light will come on to warn you of worn pads, it can come and go if the level is marginal. If it's low and you simply fill it. When you do change pads it will over flow and take some paint with it. Also the smal float in the MC can stick. Wiggle it with a small screw driver to free it. If it is the Ebrake switch, I believe it's under your center console. Pushing the handle down should cause it to go off. Hope this helps.

Tony?? -that you?? Moved to CO?? If it's clicking no need for a noid or a multimeter. I'd check the compression on that cyl. PITA I know But it could be carbon build up on the valves. Might get lucky with some Seafoam.

Jace sent me some pictures. Looks like some real potential, how bout dem airhorns!!

Welcome aboard EA71 1600 cc would be my guess but the guys here know MUCH more than I.

Cob 82 was a strange year for Brats. you might want to make sure you do not have the external voltage regulator with the fuel pump control.

Sounds more MAF orienented. Make sure the plug is tight. but you say "There is mouse party remnents in the trunk too." Your ECU is back there, did you check around it? Congrats on Holly, a "good" job does have it's perks.

Tom isn't this the Brat with the EA82 in it? Pass side timing belt? After you get it home. Take your timing light, maybe the DS belt skipped a few teeth. With the plugs pulled it will spin fast enough. If it's the EA81 checking the ignition timing may still shed dome light. Good luck, bad juju Turkey Day.

some one recently forgot to plug in the cam or crank senor I don't think you would have any spark but might want to look the those connections.

Andy sorry for the scuffs to the baby. Glad no one was injured. but I have to wonder Does your horn work??

Dave wanted me to add some picts Oil Pan with aux. over fill drain hole Control arm with out much "conrol"

could be or could be gas fouled try it again and if no go stand on it (floor it to clear the flooring) You could pull all of them crank a bit to clear the cylinders clean the plugs, reinstall and give it ago.

OK, so I have to figure out if fuel is getting to the injectors and into the cylinders??? Sir, Affirmative, sir.

please pull the sparking plugs and let us know what you see wet? maybe gas fouled bonedry? injector wiring problem Guess you do not have a "noid" Noid for sale on Ebay

WA, thanks again for your time. I trust your expierence far more than I do my own. As for: Internal at the center of the engine or out at the heads? Believe it or not both. One side a bit noisier but center and both heads - noise like this is transmitted I'm sure. The first time it happened, the noise sounded like all the oil has been pumped out and... well I thought there was no hope for the engine. Changed oil/filter - as I mentioned much earlier, the noise abated and it returned to sewing machine smooth. In my experiance..............collapsed lifters do not cause a misfire. Have seen many 2.2L engines that have had to much sealant put on the oil pump and get pumped into oil bleed holes on the rocker arms causing the lifters to collaps, none with a misfire due to this. Lifters pumped up all the way will cause misfire, but no noise. Now THAT is informative. Thanks for that insight. Worn rod and main bearing noise should not completly go away intermittently, and should not cause a misfire. Agreed. If the oil pressure fell i-- would / could the conrod bearings make noise before they fail completely? Back to inspecting the valve guides. I have not personally had the chance to see this, but have heard from many professinals in the business that it does happen. Valve guides will come loose in the cyl head and slide down the valve steam holding the valves open and causeing a misfire. Valves hammer the guide back in place and misfire goes away, untill guides move again. I have to assume there is going to be noise associated with this problem. Now there is a very good possibility!! Odd for it to happen on a 66Kmi engine but this is the Legfrom'ell afterall. Wish I had a bore scope. Thanks again, good info that.

Hi Emily, always a delight to see/read from you. As this post is very long and convoluted I know some items "get lost" in the shuffle. I will do my best to answer your thoughts. 1) Fuel filter. If there's crud in there, it can float up and down, causing erratic behavior. Fuel filter was replaced - no difference. I have experienced semi clogged fuel filters. These due to crud, bad gas (H20) ect. But I have never known one to cause a noise similar to rod bearing failure at idle? 2) Thrust bearing. Try a heavy oil, like 20W50. A thrust bearing knock can come and go depending on rpms. If the heavier oil helps, that's a good probability. We now are running 20w/50. I have never read or heard of a thrusht bearing causing severe stumbling -- (feels all the world like a bad miss - not just timing retard {please see below}) 3) Off brand or old timing belt. Sounds almost like it's jumping timing (and back ). Luckily, with a '94 model, that's not doing the internal damage a newer engine would suffer. Brand new Felpro, not OEM but not exactly off brand. Tensioner felt/compressed slowly and acted fine. 4) Knock sensor. I agree with the earlier post that this is something to be looked at. Could be corroded or broken. They go bad with no warning. Use only a Genuine Subaru one! I know of this problem personally with my 94 GT wagon. The typical crack w/failure - power was down for sure .. but did not feel like a severe miss this one has. This miss/stunmling is accompanied by severe clacking and whacking. I will look into this when it comes back. As always thanks for your time and insight. WA, thanks for the thought whch is very much welcomed. With the car on a lift, standing under it, I used the long handle screwdriver stethoscope trick, the noise sure sounded internal. The engine had never been apart according to the pervious owners (see Davebugs post above). The miss/ stumble/ noise occurs simultaneously and goes away in the same fashion.