Bratwerst

"Burns a little oil and makes my wife sick" - sounds like a review of my cooking... Hope you can though. Back on topic though: The work on those bumpers really cleaned it up.

Looking good man. Can you pleeeeaaaasee come to WCSS this year?!?! Modded Subaru in your driveway = no excuse ????

Thanks on the HVAC - that makes sense & I'll try what you mentioned. I left the fuel delivery and canister alone as they actually serve a clear funtion. It was this crap I wanted gone. That table is all stuff I removed and the engine only runs better!

EA81's went up to 87 with brats & 89 with hatchbacks. It's a cool little car

I tore into it today and elimated a ton of crap - some of it clearly faulty. My throttle response has also gotten much closer to what I think it should be. Anyone know what that single small vacuum line that goes through the passenger side firewall is? Looks like it goes into the area behind the glovebox. To be safe I kept it hooked up to the manifold vacuum but eliminated the little switch dealy that it went through. Thanks for the responses

I'm not looking to do any swap actually. If I'm swapping anything it will be the EJ22 sitting on the garage floor... later on when I've got more time/space. Buying a whole setup will cost money plus there's waiting for one to surface. I've had a brat with a stripped down Hitachi that ran great & strong for years. I've also had a weber on my lifted wagon but that's another $250. Eliminating this oddball emissions stuff will cost practically nothing and will tell me if there is something up with the carb (then I'll drop the $$$ on a Weber) Thanks for the post either way, spfi's are nice.

I finally found one blurry-as-crap picture of my old engine that helps out significantly. What is shown is precisely what I'm trying to replicate. I also found a picture from when I was swappng from Old-Nasty to new, not helpful but I think it's worth sharing.

Here's the rest of the pictures - like the strange little switch on the pass. side of the manifold that hooks up to the metal emissions tube branching off the exhaust via a lone vac. line.

First off, vehicle is an 89 EA-81 Hatch that must have originally been from California. SO MANY HOSES!!! Now that is past the emissions exempt date I will no longer need to pass emissions. She's not running how she should and with all of these hoses, canisters, filters, switches, and who knows what else it's hard to troubleshoot my lag in throttle response. About 10 years ago I de-smogged an 83 EA-81 BRAT and it purred after I sorted it out. However, that was 10 years ago and I cannot remember what systems were vital to basic operation. So here's what I'm asking: Which of these hoses/canisters/switches that I have labeled are essential? I know I need the EGR, Vac line for the Disty, and the Vac. actuated secondaries for the carb. So here are the pics to make things as clear as possible. Thanks for reading... also if anyone has a picture of thier stripped down hitachi manifold or a picture of my old BRAT's that would be very helpful.

Thanks again jerry - not what I wanted to hear - but it's what I needed to know. - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

whoops - front - but rear would also be good to know.

Can someone measure an EA82/Loyale Axle for me really quick - end to end - pretty pleaaaaaase?? - I'm trying to compare EA-81 and EA-82 axle lengths - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

People still up there? I dont' get off of work until 1'ish - 12:30 if I'm lucky. Even worth comming up at that point? If anyone can give me a call to let me know whats going on that'd be even better (253) 278-6694 **this number is for today only!*** thanks - - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

Sweet deal on both sides (for stock rigs/seat open) - I have work both days but can cruise on up on sunday after work in Puyallup which will be around 12 or so? Get in contact with someone and meet you guys up there? - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

On my cars I've always changed the pads before this happened - The previous owner of this car wore the pads down to the backing plate. Now the piston is giving WAY more resistance to being screwed back in than all the other subarus I've done this on. At this point (piston waaaay out) do I have to take apart the caliper - or do you think relieving the brake pressure via the bleeder screw would help, then follow normal procedure? (btw - I already removed the M/C cap to help a little bit with the pressure issue) Thanks in advance - - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

It's easy Mr. Uberroo - The brakes were both squealing and grinding - they took it into a shop that I know is credible; both the shop and her dad confirmed that the rotors were grooved (sticking finger through holes in the wheel). I have a great fimiliarity with this type of work and am doing this as a favor. I live in Tacoma and work in Puyallup. The car is in Gig Harbor, I get off work in the height of traffic. There's your answer Mr. Smartypants. As far as not seeing the underside of a car, my brat alone is probably built from more cars than most people own/drive in their lives. Craig, thank you so very much for the useful post - that was exactly what I needed. - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

Ok - my fault..... I swore the sedan my girlfriends dad bought was a 2wd... gas commuter, sedan, automatic... just sounded 2wd'ish to me.. It's an 89 4wd EA82 style sedan. Anyway! - I bought 2WD rotors+pads for this thing..... but its 4WD. Am I okay or am I swimming downstream from a sewage plant? - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

How trail-ready does a soob need to be? All I've got to run up there since I sold my lifted wagon is a stock brat with dual range and 14" pugs on street tires. Try and run it or just park at the trailhead??? Anyone have some tires I could borrow j/k. - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

Well, after it was all said and done it turns out the alt was wonky and not putting out the correct voltage - after that the coil put out the right amount of power and everything was peachy.... So out of curiosity I plugged it back in to the factory connection and lo-and-behold, works just as it should. Strange thing is the voltmeter on the dash was reading right (Maybe just hadn't run itself down enough?). Oh well, problem solved with spare parts from the shed - yay for parting out dead cars! - Erik - Tacoma, Wa -

Jbrand is correct, the volt reg is the saftey in this model (just replaced my volt. reg with a good used one). I'll check the Alt though For those mentioning new pump and placement... I dont need a new pump, the pump in there is actually brand new (last owner replaced it) and I ran a new ground - thing runs off a switch straight from the battery just peachy. NO I am not keeping it this way - this was to trouble-shoot / get it into the garage. 75 Subie - When I had it run off of the + side of the coil it was only running at 6.5V therefore not really functioning. 1980's have this funky resistor pack thing on top of the coil, but thats matched to the starter circuit, not to "run". Thanks for everyones input so far! - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

Sounds similar to what I was thinking. Already have an independent ground run to the chassis and power line run out - was just hoping for a mucho-convienient place to tie into the system. Thanks for the steering column tip, easy to get to for testing / getting electrical tools in there. - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

What do you all think is the best place to run a fuel-pump from? I want it to be triggered off of the key like it normally would. This is my sisters' car so I dont want any "you have to turn this on before and make sure you turn it off.. blah blah blah" because I dont think she'll remember. Why am I asking this? For some reason or another the fuel-pump wiring stopped working. All fuses are fine, and I replaced the voltage regulator (1980 GLF coupe). Thanks in advance - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

bump... nothing??

Was working on trying to figure out why the fuel pump wasn't working correctly when my car decided it hates me. Preface: There were no wires that I was messing with grounding out somewhere - the car was turned *OFF*. Car is an 80' GLF coupe w/EA81. Disconnected the connector at the voltage regulator (circular/right next to battery) to check for corrosion - none, clip it back together and it starts smoking.....BAD - (I think it's the white wire on the "car" side and red/white on the voltage reg. side) by the time I could grab some gloves to yank the connector apart there was smoke comming from the far side of the engine bay an places on the wiring harness were burned through/bubbled.. For just a moment I reconnected to see if I had alligned the connector wrong - but it smoked that way too. so basically..... WHAT THE !#*()#!^)(! HECK!!!!!! Anyone had this happen before????? I need help ASAP - Erik - Tacoma, WA -

ere' we go - had to crop and zoom but you get the idea..