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Bratwerst

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Everything posted by Bratwerst

  1. Engine is EA-81 N/A Okay - heres the full story- replaced engine with an engine that was taken out of a running car, runs fabulous for an hour or two of running time. I'm really pleased with how things were going other than the oil guage flipping out (way high and would stay there if you blipped the throttle or below zero at idle) Came back out, start up the car... runs for a few seconds then KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK.... Oil level was there - pump was pumping... Even so, I went and replaced the pump. I primed the pump with oil, turned the engine over with the starter for a little bit to prime the engine - then started it. KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK Then I got sick and fed up and TORE A$$$$ up the driveway and let it idle as I locked things up. I'm not goint to let a engine kick it dead without me putting a few fun miles on it. But........ it went away..... what the.... stayed away for a good while too as I would take it on shorter drives and even on some longer ones. Sat. night I was driving home from my friends and KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK..... WHAT THE!??!?!?! Put some oil in (it was a little over a quart low - but not dry) Still had to take my girlfriend home so I did, got a tad quieter and now its just as loud again... ugh... this car is testing me too much. Any of you folks out in soobie-land enjoyed my same situation??? suggestions?? Also have a wierd high-pitch squeaky sound during the first 20 mins of running that goes away with pushing in the clutch (even the tiniest bit) Another soob I've swapped engines on did this too... what gives? - Erik -
  2. 82 brats and DL brats are the only ones that had the two big-square headlights (like the front of Der VVagon for instance in my sig) as far as brats are concerned - and slight correction is its 83 and later had the quad lamps (straight-bar grille though, switched to honeycomb in 84) - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  3. I'm a clean/polish/paint freak as well as I'm trying to get my 'easy to work on' down to an art - airfilter box is held on by alt-bracket screw and center wingnut both finger tight - as well as only having about 6 hoses between the carb and vacuum advance. This wouldnt' be a huge acheivement but this engine was MAJOR nasty + I took it from california spec. smog controls to what you see here. AND - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  4. bah - you screwered up my suprise! It's okay though - only a couple of you know about this, but I'll post pictures about my nifty front end work on my 83 BRAT in the next few days.... - Erik -
  5. Hey guys - thanks for the help. I ended up using a $5 drill, my harbor friehgt taping set, and 2 long arse 10mm screws from an old engine and some iffy random washers plus the steering wheel puller I bought for my caprice... god I love shade-tree mechanic ways of doing things.... what I dont like - how far I had to rip down the front of the car to get the drill etc in there; things taken off: Radiator & hoses, headlight bezels, grille, bumper, air cleaner of course, crank pulley, belt... ah well, nothing I havent done way too many times for any non-soob person - Erik -
  6. my personal trick was taking a spare 13/16ths spark plug wrench and taking my grinder to it and notching it out to the correct shape so it matches up. Then wa'la - you have the compactness of a socket with the leverage of a ratchet (not to mention you dont have to reset it or change hand postition) - I can take a picture if you want. Plus my pistons were UBER-hard to get in as well, just take your time and dont break/strip anything. - Erik -
  7. I've put a few thousand miles on my dealer cable, most of it in-city driving and even offroading a bit in Der VVagon. Before that I broke 2 clutch cables (yes they were adjusted right). Stock subaru clutch cables are far superior. - Erik -
  8. btw - to you twisty folks - I understand what your saying, it wouldn't twist though. This is why I tried the twisting while pulling (thats actually when it broke). The block-bolts loosening idea also occurred to me but luckily I realized that if it did pull apart just enough to give me some room, that same amount of room could quickly be occupied by metal shards (which would suck as then the block wouldn't seal back together right) so thats a last resort - but its good to know there are people thinking like I am I'm going to borrow tools from my buddy down the street since my drill died and try the tap/slidehamer/puller method. Redskin - how'd you get the cylinder to crack in its bore?? - Erik -
  9. Thanks - I dont' feel much better though, its sort of like hearing "its easy, first you kidnap the pope and assume his position with no one noticing - then its a piece of cake" Thanks though, I'll take that bit of direction and work on it that way - Erik -
  10. Well I was replacing my oil pump on the EA-81 in my brat.. no big problem... here's the mayhem that insued pull out 4 bolts -tap- (didn't come out) -tap more/harder- (didn't come out) -start prying/tapping- (didn't come out) -more of the above- (one side loosened!) -tap/pried on other side- !!!!!!!whole thing snapped in friggin half!!!!! -tap/pull/wedge/pry- (thing starts breaking apart as if it were ceramic) -same thing for awhile- I figured I'd get it at least broken-out enough to ensure there was no longer any tension from the gasket holding it, just the smooth cylinder in the smooth hole of the engine. Nope - so at this point there should be no 'grab' but the damned thing is seized in there so tight it wont come out for piss.... any suggestions???? - Erik -
  11. ah, this hurts man - I remember following this car from the day you got it all the way through pushguards/brushguards - lights, tires, racks, the bobcat sticker, wheeling in this car as a passenger - getting pulled over outside of Seattle doing like 74. She led a good life. Sad to see 'er go but that soob made good memories. Now Brian, the new one has a lot to live up to - dont dissapoint - Erik -
  12. Okay - I'm not being vindictive to anyone but I am 100% sure on my car compression braking is bad - I can accelerate a-ok with no stange sounds from the tranny, just a few tiny clunk-type noises if its dead-cold. BUT - if I compression brake with the car I hear the tranny going GUNK-GUNK-GUNK-GUNK-GUNK...... hrm..... I just thought out how I just noticed my pitch-stopper being broken, though I'm sure it was doing this before hand. Braking the car normally however stops it just fine - no horrendous thunk. To thunk or not to thunk.... How can it not be hard on your clutch though? I've read some studies that have been put out to break automotive myths and this was one of them (they said not to compression brake) - but I realize sometimes those arent accurate enough either... guess I'll go fix my car and to fiddle with it and I'll post back.
  13. few points to make A. That royally sucks - Saw some pics of that wago and it looked awesome B. I agree - in a morbid way, I bet it looked cool C. Glad you got your $$ and got yourself a nice rig (one that could easily tow a subaru wink-wink-nudge-nudge) D. I really hope you stick around and get another roo!!! - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  14. Brush em off - wise words on the "you are where you want to be" bit, live by them myself. Just remember when those anarexic types go to the mountains and are freezing cause they got thier car stuck you can bet they wish they were in a subaru with a bit more 'insulation' under the jacket :-p . I wish I were 6'3 - the sideways measurement I can work on, vertical... not so easy.... - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  15. Good seeing stuff gettin done (even though I knew about this when it happened) but seeing is better than hearing Good job on those fenders, look good. You so need me down there so we can pimpafy that so-low Brat in short-time. - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  16. CraigCLGT (sorry if I'm a tad off on the name - but you konw who I mean - guy who lives 2 down from mike/flowmaster) Has a shot of your wagon parked, I saw it in his pics (didn't take one of mine if it makes ya feel better ) - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  17. Just because no one said anything doesn't mean your car wasn't admired... Which one was yours?? Me for example, my dumbarse forgot my dig cam, so I was running off of a disposable in my pocket in which I always forgot I even had so I didn't take too many pictures, left a few to spectacle (ie that giant gen 1 etc...) What car was yours, for some reason I think I may know which one you are... in fact I think you may've been parked next to me. If it makes you feel any better I was there friday through sunday, was out in the pit twice, and only have 2 pictures of my lifted wagon, so keep your chin up! Remember you can see you own car any day of the week, post a pic up here - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  18. I am in as well - I'll send off everything pronto - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  19. Already mentioned it and shook hands on it - but thanks to you two, and the other folks that helped out... but the job well done desreves 10x that recognition. I didn't know it would turn out so all around awesome. GOOD SHOW! (literally!! ) - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  20. Heads are quite easy to remove while engine is in car - Subaru thought about this, and there are little circular rubbler plugs on the framerails, take those out and getting things like the pushrods, Rocker bolts, etc is pretty easy... - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  21. I think McBrat had a set of these fellas on the original Mountain Grizzly wagon (until a deer decided to claim the frontend) - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  22. Yes "Little Roo" did, but not an 80-81 (with round headlights)... - Erik - Tacoma, WA - (Racer - I've got some family down in Las Cruces, maybe we can meet up if I'm down to visit them sometime)
  23. Morgan is spot-on! Not too much you can do with an EA-71 if you're bent on keeping it - cam, exhaust, and weber (or highly sought after dual-carb setup) Nice car though, looks pretty; GD is right, pretty rare to see now'a'days. A built EA-81 with an EA-82 5spd would move nicely in contrast to what you have now though... - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
  24. James, I've got no clue on the tach - but for the trouble codes/computer: Take the panel off that is under the steering column/dash (right about where your knees are when sitting in the drivers seat) - There should be a black or brass box with a little circular window, thats the cars computer - that window is what shows your trouble codes in a morse-code type fashion. Here's the link to the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual's page on trouble codes, this should answer your ECS questions... or at least norrow down which new questions to ask :-\ http://www.usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f4430b8.49200047/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2c055f4862e9.39782181.art Don't ever forget the excellent resource of the USRM (go to www.usmb.net then click on the USRM) - Erik - (btw, need to get ahold of you soon - bout the datsun)
  25. I'll be doing a full write-up with pics as well. If I remember correctly here's what I've gathered: Physical changes - need to cut shifter hole in floor larger, need the 4WD linkage bracket welded/bolted/etc into place, need to bypass the starter lock-out (this is what makes it so you dont accidently try and start your car when your in gear) PARTS: (from 4spd dual-range car) 4spd Dual-range + linkage Tranny X-member, mounts, and the tranny-to-mount brackets Pedal cluster clutch cable speedo cable flywheel clutch/press-plate 3.9 Rearend 4WD linkage bracket (spot welded to tranny tunnel on the interior of the cab) the rubber boot for the stick/4WD linkage metal bracket that holds down said boot 4WD center console Driveline* *I have both, but will try using the automatic driveline to see if it'll work OPTIONAL: Hill-holder equipment from an 82+ GL 4WD I miss anything? - Erik - Tacoma, WA -
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