bgd73

If it is just after turning key on, it is normal (supposed to stop tho, if it doesn't, check fuel system). I noticed my spfi soob doesn't do it like my carb did.

What a long thread about soob sound! an Inline 4 tumbles(snappy twackin retard), a boxer 4 torques. 180 degree fire, is claimed by all 4 cylinders. Inline is faking an important angle of 180 to be correct(50% on each side of crank, at angle of firing---it's a simple physic that does something incredible for engines power, and how calm it can stay to do so, again another sound factor.), subaru engines have that correctumundo math. I have heard inlines almost soob like by having 2cyl headers x2, but the tumbling screaming fake torque hoax reveals itself eventually. A subaru also has more of a throttle advance due to another cylinder firing in great spot (crank advance), inlines have to fake a balance by mechanically, physically altering the steel crank a few more degrees to gain same power (higher rpms as a result, more quickly, with a disappointing "torque" line). A great proof of this is the vids I found for pikes peak race, in 1987 a wild screaming peugeot dominated that hill echoing a fake monster of an engine up the side of the mountain. A subaru WRX simply turbo'd, did the same ,whispering in comparison(to this day, i believe it is still dominating that race). I couldn't wait for that boxer engine torque to finally show its true colors:burnout: "How many different ways to describe a subaru sound?"

236k miles before friend rolled and destroyed a 89wagon running strong(smoked tho: he chose k&n oily air filter). 218k miles on a 91sedan 4wd that finally puked its auto 3spd tranny!(the old guy never humbled his way over 45-50mph) The above is the reasons I got a soob, starting 9 years ago, only had two since then (on my second) . My personal best was 166k miles running absolutely perfect,dl wagon 4wd ,even oil leaks were nearly non-existent....gave it away running(body destroyed). Currently at 146k miles in a 5spd sedan (93), recently let loose to 6500 rpm and no smoke! All Ea82, carb oem, and spfi oem.

The 2wd wagon and 2wd sedan are rear strut swappable. Doing so for wagon from sedan has benefit of free lift (not much). I was hoping the wagon strut was longer than sedan, it is the opposite.

Sorry to hijack thread, your title was exactly what I needed in search. Question is: Can a 2wd rear strut be swapped for 4wd rear strut, and if so, does it help lift, ride to be stiffer. Monroes web site has different part numbers, yet gabriel struts found on ebay are putting the same two struts on 2wd and 4wd wagon, or sedan. Any advice appreciated. I fill up the gas tank to watch the back end appear to SIT ON THE GROUND.:cool:

just another air leak. The rubber part of intake from spfi to air filter housing was annhilated, i dont know what kind of chemical would do that, but it developed more splits and cracks and holes even after i put my own fix in it. Leak was just right to keep getting metered corrrectly. Ahhh, a bit of silicone and back to granny mobile Anybody's rubber intake do the same? I wondered if 25f below zero could cause it too.

Last night on a 250mile round trip in my 93 loyale something bizarre started happening. I already posted about my 5 speed tranny acting like the same gears at same rpms would be just an engine thumping harder and gaining speed the whole time, with no rpm change(not clutch slip). 5th gear at 3000 is passing just about everbody on the highway. 4000 rpm is "holy crap, adjust the elevator trim" But anyway to my question about the spfi: I get an incredible air noise that is seemingly allowing the car to accelerate at low rpms and i can hit over 6500rpm (oem ea82) . This just started happening, and I dont know what I blew out of it, spfi related. Is it possible that the air bypass is stuck open and fuel metering was accomplished anyway by the ecm? Another factor was the fuel consumption was high. It still idles great, ruled out perfect vacuum leak (by perfect i mean some vacuum leaks create power, which is what may be happening in spfi someplace). I hope I explained this enough, a ride before and after in my car would put a frown on most faces :-\ I dont even know where to begin. Also when i let off the gas there is a whistle like a turbo blowoff that never ends, louder than the acceleration hissing

I have repaired the impossible (including very bad rocker panel on a unibody that started bending). Bent and cut pices all by hand and ended up in the hundreds of steel rivets. If I'm not mistaken the rocker ended up a 13 inch wide 60 inch long piece before bent up to fit (surprising how much those bends take up for footage).Used galvanized metal and 50 year caulking by GE to seal imperfections (i couldn't believe the package said "50 year"!). Then in really difficult benders and shapes used thin aluminum . Bondo, and cheap paint finished it up. Wallah! It passed a legal inspection and away i went for 6 more months. Rust and keeping it painted is nearly impossible. I have encountered scenarios seemingly a miracle lasting for a few years with epoxy based or oil based paint or paint that does not use oxygen as a cure (very powerful fumes). I am going that route this year. It can be done . Even a Maine victim.

carbs rock. I miss my 40-50mpg hitachi with that freaky little anti-freeze line that plugged in

I lost fuel pump and blew drivers side timing belt (leaned out, i'd guess). To have ea81 with pushrods might be a prerequisite I did manager to put on a belt, change a pump, time it in...on the side of the road.

I am certain these old soobs are going up in value here too. I just found an old non-inspectable wagon so rusted the rocker panel was non-existent (unibody important part there!), the dealer wanted not only cost of car but doc fees. I gave away an old soob that looked better than what I have been finding for sale.....I suppose it is common sense. Even these old EA82's with errors do better efficiently than a brand new subaru "hot rod". Who wants my 93 sedan (I got for free) for $12000

Hi, I had same problem. The adjustment was so precise at the fork, even a full turn (just one) gave sticking/no function of hill holder. I finally loosened clutch cable to very loose, this allowed for more adjustment flaws(there is alot of play pushing in clutch before it disengages). Even then, fall to spring did something different to whole setup, and may just say to heck with hillholder anyway. (I "burn rubber" taking off from a hill in spring/summer, works great all winter):-\

Hi, I found several posts with this conversion from drum to disc on EA82(2wd). I found new discs and pads on net but no calipers. I would like to go new, as what I found so far is cheap enough.I can make my own brake lines custom if need be. Any fav place to look? I can't find new calipers anywhere, and locally is not an option.I gave up the 15 inch tire conversion, brakes seem to be a realistic thing to do. :-\

Hey, I thought it was just me and my old soob with the noise. Thought I had an error and repacked rear berrings with hight temp synthetic (I mean REALLY packed it). Now I've got a poor man's cadillac

try 5w/30 oil? wont fix leak but may help slow pump get rid of engine noise at lower rpms.

AlternatORRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR My First guess....

Ok Got It! I just need some "C5FeO5 / Fe(CO)5" in a can. If it works for an F-117 stealth fighter, just maybe it will stick to my car....

Thanks! Tried the rustoleums, auto parts store spray cans available (many brands!) None have worked. I've sanded, cleaned primed sanded cleaned painted sanded and painted. Normal Instructions aren't even working.I got thinking of the 50 year old military planes I worked on in this area, through 30 years of Maine, staying tough after a 400mph trip and -30F not just at altitude. I thought of "Grampy's" house with the military spec battleship gray that lasted years and years even after he was gone! (where did that ww2 veteran get that?!) I will try the stuff that emphasized industrial strength , see what happens. It would make sense to be something from the miltary, or other tough industry, ( like existing in Maine!)Heck, if you even let your car get dirty here the electrical craps in mysterious places. Why it don't stick is a real nuisance. I have heard mention of resin/epoxy/urethane based paints doing well, as long as there is nearly Zero H20 in chemistry of it.

I felt same way after giving away my 87 DL after 9 years. I cant get over how good of shape your car still appears however.... Mine was bending in half at the home-made rocker sill, pulled to the right badly because of it. header pipes were stripped at the heads, popped like a rally car in between every gear, and differential in front was so stuck the left wheel would spin backwards, if the right one lost traction and odometer claimed 166k for a few years, and fender randomly flapped in the wind. I pulled windshield with "the forever bent unibody" dimples in the corners.. (gave away still running very strong tho...) If cars like that are ending up in the junk yard where you are, I'll be leaving Maine to think I found master pieces waiting for a little TLC.

I cleaned my car recently... This winter aged it about 12 years (I painted touch-up last spring). What can I goop my car up with , that will never leave it? All I need is simple white, even if different shade. I found a website, may try this. Rent a sprayer and wait for a 70 degree F day. I even put straight undercoating on an old soob once, and it didnt last as well. http://topsecretcoatings.com/ Anybody tried that?

Interesting conversation. My 2wd is exactly the same in the front as my old 4wd. Would 4wd struts mount right in the back of a 2wd, as this thing is quite a droopy sagger (wheels are in the wheel wells on 185/75/13 studded snow tires). Handling is like on rails like this, but seems a bit odd to look at. Also keeps my leaky cam seals from leaking:grin:

Hey while that tank is a subject.... Mine doesn't do anything. Upon following lines to the front of car, I only find the tiny pressure regulator. Do those clog up? Or is it an internal spfi problem in the carb. I shrugged it off thinking it was a surge canister for turbo models, and subaru put it in all of them.

It was a gadget near the thermostat, something thermal monitoring. Again it was some time ago, I said the heck with it and kept on running after pricing it for repair (ridiculously expensive). Rather than check it out again, with my missing Subaru book, I tried here for common problem. -25F to 90F outside temps, I'd break another one anyway.... Anyone in Maine with a loyale whose check engine light isn't on?

Hello! I have asked about this previous (almost a year ago?). I didnt get back to responses for my 93 loyale's prob. I have the engine light on after 4th gear 45mph. and it stays on. I bought a book to get the codes off the ECM and it does not match the problem. I cleaned th flow sensor on air housing, did not work (car wont even run with that unplugged) so, I am at a loss. What is first common part to go? (like an o2 sensor or mass air flow on GM) Where to get, if there is a common problem ?(not by subaru, but cheap replacement equivalent.My local parts store had outrageous prices for the tiny gadgets).

Don't get another head(s)! I had this problem with 2 studs that stripped, one was even broken , one kept trying to fall out.(banged Y pipe on ground 4-wheeling). I found a thing called a "helix coil" and an american size 3/8 bit, new studs and wallah! Stronger than OEM. The trick is to have a car lift and nearly perfect perpendicular drill hole ( a mechanic I brought my car to, got it first shot), that was only risk.